Unicorn Zombie (Free Version)

The idea to create a Unicorn Zombie was given to me by one of my followers on Instagram last year. It took me a while, but finally I was able to make this cute little guy. And I am so happy with the final look! The bone is a challenge though. 🙂

This version of the pattern is FREE. You can also find a PREMIUM version that includes a drawing of the unicorn that you can use to create fun Halloween cards. The premium version is a PDF file that you can conveniently download and print.

Link to the premium version: UNICORN ZOMBIE

I hope you like the pattern. Let me know in the comments below!

MATERIALS

Curio, size 10 (you can find it here: KnitPicks)
- Clarity (light blue)
- Heliotrope
- Black
- Conch
DMC floss:
- Metallic, gold
- Black
- White
Hooks, Clover Amour (1.5 mm and 1 mm)
Stuffing
Hard Pastels (I used Prismacolor)
Small brush or a cotton swab

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring

Ch – chain

St(es) – stitch(es)

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

Dc – double crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – Decrease (invisible decrease)

BLO/FLO – Back loop only/Front loop only

Sk – skip

HEAD

Round 1: with Clarity 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)

Round 8: 4 sc, 4 inc, 8 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc – 32 sts

Round 9: sc around – 32 sts

Change color – Heliotrope

Rounds 10 – 11: sc around – 32 sts (2 rounds)

Round 12: sc in 30 sts, ch 4 and sk 4 (we are moving the beginning of the round) – 32 sts

Round 13: 2 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc, in BLO of chain 4 sc – 24 sts

Round 14: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Start stuffing the head.

Round 15: 8 dec – 8 sts

Round 16: 2 dec – 6 sts

We will end Round 16 there. Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.

BODY

Turn the head upside down with the back of the head facing you.

You will notice that there are 2 sets of unworked stitches – 4 that are closest to you (this is where the back of the body will be once you make it) and 4 are further away from you (where the front of the body will be once you make it). Insert the hook in the 2^nd to last st beginning with the back (closest to you) and with a sc join Clarity.

Round 1: sc again in same st where you joined thread and inc in next st

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1^st st at the front; do not grab the last st from the back)

Inc in next 3 sts

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1^st st at the back; do not grab the last st from the front)

Inc in last st

After you finish Round 1, you should have 16 sts.

Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts

Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)

Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts

Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 28 sts (2 rounds)

Round 9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 – 24 sts

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the body well. Leave 8 stitches on each side of the body for legs. Mark the middle 8 stitches (4 at the front and 4 at the back) with thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs are aligned with the head.

LEGS (x 2)

Turn the body upside down (back side facing you) and with a sc join Clarity thread in one of the stitches you left for the 1^st leg.

Round 1: sc in each st until you get to the thread marking the middle sts. Insert hook in same st as last sc and in the st at the other side of the body. 1 sc ; sc until the end of round – 8 sts

Round 2: sc around – 8 sts

Stuff well.

Round 3: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off.

Repeat for the second leg.

Once finished, sew the middle 8 stitches to close.

Secure the stitches.

ARM

Crochet in spiral.

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

BONE

Crochet tight.

Because I used thread, I didn’t need to stuff the bone. If you are using yarn, you may need to stuff a little.

Suggested color – DMC cotton perle 12 with a 1 mm hook (NOTE: I used yarn for the step-by-step pictures)

Ch 4

Round 1: 1 puff stitch in 2^nd ch from hook (Please follow the steps below and refer to the pictures)

YO and insert hook through 2^nd chain from hook, YO and pull (three loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (two loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (four loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (five loops on hook)

YO and pull through all loops (puff stitch created)

1 sc in next chain

2 puff stitches in last ch

Now we will crochet on the other side of the chain

1 sc in next ch

1 puff stitch in last ch

At the end of Round 1, you should have 6 stitches.

Rounds 2 – 7 : sc around – 6 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 1 puff stitch, 1 sc, 2 puff stitches, 1 sc, 1 puff stitch – 6 sts

NOTE: Make sure the two ends are aligned.

Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches. Leave one of the tails for sewing later.

EAR 1

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1^st st, inc in next, (hdc, dc, hdc) in third st, inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 9 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EAR 2

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1^st st, inc in next, (1 hdc, ch 2 and sl st in 3^rd st), inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 8 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EYE

Suggested color: DMC cotton perle 12, black with a 1 mm hook

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 2: (1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 2; sl st to join – 10 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Use DMC cotton perle 12, color white thread to sew a few times in a stitch in the eye to make a large sparkle. Then sew a couple of times in another st to make a second sparkle (a bit smaller than the first one).

HORN

Suggested color – DMC metallic thread (2 or 3 strands)

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 2: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 3: in BLO (2 sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 5: in BLO (sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

TAIL (x 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 6

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 5 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

MANE (5 or 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 15

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 14 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

Sew the eye to the head, right above the muzzle. I sewed the eye on the left part of the face.

Using Curio size 10, black thread and a needle, sew a line going up 4 rounds at an angle on the right side of the head. The bottom of the line should be 7 stitches from the eye and the top – about 4 or 5 stitches from the top of the eye. Once the line is sewn (I sewed twice to make it thicker), sew 3 smaller lines crossing the longer one. Secure the thread.

Sew the horn 4 rounds above the eyes.

Sew the ears about 2 stitches behind the horn, about 3 stitches apart.

Sew the arm one round below the head and the bone – two rounds below the head making sure both align with the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the tail at the back of the body, one or two rounds above the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the mane at the back of the head, between the ears.

With black thread, sew a line going down the arm about four rounds. Then sew two smaller lines crossing the longer one.

With the Conch color (also light or salmon pink), cross stitch in 5 stitches below the right ear (about 2 rounds above the eye).

Using a small brush or cotton swab, apply your choice of color of the hard pastel around the scarred eye and arm patch. I also applied some on the broken ear, the bottom of the legs, and a little around the left eye (the round one).

HAPPY CROCHET!!!

Boîte Champignon Miniature (Modèle au Crochet)

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ Leave a comment

Boîte Champignon Miniature (Modèle au Crochet)

Ce modèle a été traduit en Français par Sylvie Conil.

Alors, l’autre jour j’ai fait un mignon petit elfe (qui fais seulement 2cm de haut) puis après, j’ai pensé que je devais à présent lui faire une petite maison rien qu’à lui. J’avais imaginé faire, depuis longtemps, une petite maison champignon pour une poupée et là c’était l’occasion idéale. Une minuscule petite maison parfaite pour mon micro elfe (base sur mon modèle intitulé “ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN’’). Mais bien sûr vous pouvez aussi vous en servir de coffre à bijoux, y mettre une bague, des petits boutons, ou encore une paire de boucle d’oreilles, des perles, etc… Ou juste vous en servir comme décoration sur votre bureau. Trop fun!

En tous cas, si vous décidez de faire le micro elfe base sur mon modèle “one inch doll pattern’’, utilisez le fil Lizbeth 80, avec un crochet 0.75 mm de la marque Clover Amour. Vous trouverez en note après les explications de la maison champignon, toutes les infos pour réaliser ce mignon petit elfe.

Matériel :

Fil Lizbeth 20 : rouge et blanc
Crochet taille 10 dans la marque « Boye », c’est-à-dire, un crochet en 1,3 mm
Aiguille à coudre
Ciseaux

Abréviations:

CM – cercle magique

ms – maille serrée

mc – maille coulée

aug – augmenter

dim – diminuer

Explications :

Bas

Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en blanc. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.

Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms dans le cercle – 8 m

Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m

Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m

Rang 4 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m

Rang 5 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m

Rangs 6 – 11 : 40 ms

Après le Rang 11 joignez par 1mc (qui comptera comme la 1^ère m du rang suivant) mais ne faîtes pas de ml.

Rang 12 : 39 mc

Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.

Dessus

Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en rouge. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc, puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.

Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms – 8 m

Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m

Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m

Rangs 4 – 5 : 24 ms

Rang 6 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m

Rang 7 : 32 ms

Rang 8 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m

Rang 9 : (4 ms, aug) x 8 – 48 m

Rang 10 : (5 ms, aug) x 8 – 56 m

Rangs 11 – 14 : 56 ms

Rang 15 : (5 ms, dim) x 8 – 48 m

Après le Rang 15, joignez avec 1 mc (qui comptera comme la 1^ère m du rang suivant) mais pas de ml.

Rang 16 : 47 ms

Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.

Optionnel : brodez des petits “hashtags” sur le dessus du champignon avec du fil blanc DMC coton perle 12. Après chaque hashtag, coupez le fil et faîtes un nœud. Coupez l’excédent de fil et ajoutez un point de colle pour le fixer de façon plus propre. Vous pouvez aussi rentrer les fils pour les cacher (mais c’est trop de travail pour moi ici ;)).

Et Voila! Vous avez terminé la petite maison champignon.

MICRO ELFE (quelques astuces utiles) :

J’utilise une loupe pour voir les points de façon plus nette. Ils sont vraiment minuscules ! De Plus, utiliser la loupe vous permettra de faire des points plus serrés et consistants.
Utilisez un petit bâton (style cure-dent, baguette) pour rembourrer la poupée avec la fibre polyester. C’est plus facile ainsi pour les mini poupées.
S’il vous est difficile d’utiliser le fil Lizbeth 80, essayer le Lizbeth 40 (DMC coton perle 12) avec un crochet en 0.9 mm ou encore le Lizbeth 20 avec un crochet 1.25 mm. Mais alors, utilisez plutôt pour faire la maison, le fil Aunt Lydia’s 10 avec un crochet 1.5 mm ou le Lizbeth 10 (avec le même crochet).

Chapeau de l’Elfe :

Utilisez le même type de fil et de crochet que pour la poupée (modèle ICI). Joignez chaque rang avec 1 mc et 2 ml.

Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 2ml, 6 demi-br dans le cercle – 6 m

Rang 2 : (2 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 8 m

Rang 3 : (3 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 10 m

Rang 4 : (4 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 12 m

Rang 5 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 14 m

Rang 6 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 16 m

Rang 7 : (7 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 18 m

Rang 8 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 21 m

Rang 9 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 24 m

Rangs 10 – 11 : 24 demi-br

Ajoutez un Rang supplémentaire de 24 demi-br si le chapeau vous semble trop petit. Enfilez le chapeau à votre lutin, ajustez le pour qu’il soit à la place désirée. Puis faîtes un rang de mc en le laissant sur la tête de la poupée (les mc sont seulement sur le tour du chapeau, pas sur la tête de la poupée). Le rand de mc resserrera assez le chapeau pour le maintenir en place afin qu’il ne tombe pas de la tête de votre lutin. Une fois le rang terminé, arrêter le travail et cousez le chapeau sur la tête de la poupée en quelques points (pour éviter qu’il ne tombe sur les yeux). Rentrez les fils.

A présent votre petit elfe est prêt pour rentrer dans sa petite maison!

Crochetez bien!

Miniature Toadstool Container (Crochet Pattern)

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ 11 Comments

So, the other day I made this cute little elf (only about 7/8 of an inch) and then I thought that I should make a house for it. I have been wanting to make a mushroom house for a doll for a long time now and this seemed like the perfect opportunity. The teeny little house is perfect for the micro elf (based on my ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN). But you can also put a ring, some small buttons, maybe small earrings, beads, etc. Or just use it as a cute decor on your desk. How fun!

By the way, if you decide to make the micro elf based on my one inch doll pattern, use Lizbeth 80 thread with 0.75 mm Clover Amour hook. See notes after the toadstool house pattern for more info on how to make the cute elf.

Materials:

Lizbeth 20: red and white
Crochet hook, size 10 (Boye)
Sewing needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

inc – increase

dec – decrease

Pattern:

Bottom

Start with Lizbeth 20, white thread. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Rounds 6 – 11: 40 sc

After Round 11 join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.

Round 12: 39 sl st

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Top

Start with Lizbeth 20, red. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 5: 24 sc

Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 7: 32 sc

Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 9: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts

Round 10: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts

Rounds 11 – 14: 56 sc

Round 15: (5 sc, dec) x 8 – 48 sts

After Round 15, join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.

Round 16: 47 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: Sew hashtags to the top part of the mushroom with DMC cotton perle 12 thread. After each hashtag, cut the thread and make a knot. Cut excess thread and glue down the ends for a more cleaner look. You may also weave in the ends (but that seems like too much work to me 😉 ).

And voila! You made a cute little mushroom container.

MICRO ELF (some helpful tips):

I used a magnifying glass to help me see the stitches better. They are tiny! Plus, looking through the magnifying glass will help you have tighter and more consistent stitches.
Use polyester batting to stuff the doll. It is much easier to stuff that micro doll with the batting.
If you are having a hard time using Lizbeth 80 thread, try Lizbeth 40 (DMC cotton perle 12) with 0.9 mm hook or maybe even Lizbeth 20 with 1.25 mm hook. Then just make the house with Aunt Lydia’s 10 and 1.5 mm hook or Lizbeth 10 (same hook).

Elf Hat:

Use the same type and hook you did to make the doll (pattern HERE). Join each round with a sl st and ch 2.

Round 1: mr, ch 2, 6 hdc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: (2 hdc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts

Round 3: (3 hdc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts

Round 4: (4 hdc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts

Round 5: (5 hdc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 6: (6 hdc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts

Round 7: (7 hdc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts

Round 8: (5 hdc, inc) x 3 – 21 sts

Round 9: (6 hdc, inc) x 3 – 24 sts

Rounds 10 – 11: 24 hdc

Add one more round of 24 hdc if the hat seems too small. Put the hat on the doll and adjust it to where you would like it to stay. Slip stitch around while the hat is on the doll (sl st only the hat, not the head of the doll). The slip stitch round will make the hat tight enough so it will not fall off the head of the doll. Once you finish that round, fasten off and sew the hat to the head in a few places (to make sure it does not fall over the eyes of the doll). Weave in the ends.

Now your elf is ready for her teeny house!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Happy Crochet!

Amigurumi Travel Toy (Crochet Outfit)

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ 1 Comment

I knew I wanted to make some sort of a necklace house and a doll that would go inside. It took a while to start working on that project and when I did eventually start working on it, it took a few weeks to figure out the house design. I almost gave up. I am glad I didn’t because this new pattern is one of my favorites.

And to celebrate the release of the Tiny People in a Tiny House pattern (and the fact that it was published in the HHM printed issue), I created an extra outfit. I wanted it to be simple but to have more texture. So, I played around with the hdc stitch. Fun!

This outfit is specifically design for my newest dolls (see picture below).

You can find the pattern in my three stores:

CRAFTSY

RAVELRY

ETSY

Materials:

Lizbeth size 40 thread (color of your choice)
Clover Amour, 0.9 mm hook
Sewing needle
Scissors

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

hdc – half double crochet

sc – single crochet

st – stitch

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

FO – fasten off

Note: I have designed this dress to be permanently sewn to the doll. If you would like it to be removable, crochet in rows until you finished Round 2 (where you will have 32 sts). After that Round (but you will be working it in rows), you can start joining rounds. This should leave you enough opening in the back to be able to put on and take off the outfit. But always measure on your doll to make sure the outfit fits just right.

Pattern:

HAT

Chain 17

Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook; 14 hdc; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts

Rows 2 – 21: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts

Row 22: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 1 and turn

Put the 1st and last row together and sc them together.