Part 9 of the Pocket Valentines series is a sweet little butterfly. As all patterns in this collection, this one is also beginner friendly and very quick to make. I hope you enjoy it!
Please note that the instructions for all Pocket Valentines will be available on my blog free of charge. If you’d like the PDF version which includes all patterns in a convenient downloadable document, you can visit my shops below.
Suggested Color – Purple, Light Pink, and Light Yellow
With Purple, ch 7
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 ch, 4 sc in last ch; working on the opposite side of chain 1 sc in 5 ch; ch 1 and turn – 14 sts
Change Color – Light Pink
Row 2: 1 sc in 5 sts, 4 hdc inc, 1 sc in 5 sts; turn – 18 sts
Change Color – Light Yellow
Row 3: sl st in each st – 18 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Set aside.
SMALL WINGS (x 2)
Suggested Color – Purple, Light Pink, and Light Yellow
With Purple, ch 5
Change Color – Light Pink
Ch one more
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 3 chains; 4 sc in last ch; working on the opposite side of chain 1 sc in 4 ch; turn – 12 sts
Change Color – Light Yellow
Row 2: sl st in each st – 12 sts
Leave a long purple tail for sewing. Leave a long pink tail for sewing. Fasten off.
ANTENNAE (x 2)
Suggested Color – Taupe
Ch 4
Row 1: 2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last 2 chains – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ARMS (x 2)
Suggested color – Taupe
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Colors – Taupe
With Dark Yellow, ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 12: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (10 rows)
Row 13: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 14: sc in each st
Continue sc around the entire body, in every st and row.
Sl st to the 1st st of Row 14.
Fasten off the 1st piece and weave in the ends. Do not break the yarn from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fastened off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
With Dark Pink, sew a couple of times a row below the eyes to make the cheeks.
Sew the arms a row below the cheeks.
Place the two pieces of the body together with the RS facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
Position the wings, so that the larger one is higher than the smaller and so that they are 4 stitches apart at the back. Secure in place with pins.
Using the purple yarn and the whip stitch, sew the wings in place.
Using the light pink yarn, sew a couple of stitches from the large and small wings together.
Insert tails in same stitch place, tie knots, and stuff inside.
Sew the antennae in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece. Tie knots and stuff the tails inside.
Originally, I only planned for five Pocket Valentines – Bear, Frog, Bee, Narwhal, and Bunny. But the more critters I made, the more I wanted to make. And here we are, at Part 8.
Follow the instructions below to make the cute jellyfish in the picture. More Pocket Valentines are coming soon.
Please note that the instructions for all Pocket Valentines will be available on my blog free of charge. If you’d like the PDF version which includes all patterns in a convenient downloadable document, you can visit my shops below.
Drops Muskat Worsted Weight: Pomegranate and Black
Crochet Hook, 3.25 mm
Stuffing
Others: sewing needle, scissors
Abbreviations
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
inc – increase
TENTACLES (x 6)
Suggested Color – Pomegranate
Ch 16
Row 1: in back bump of ch only, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc until the end – 15 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Set aside.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Colors – Pomegranate
ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 3: inc, 1 sc in 8 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 12 sts
Row 4: 1 sc in 5 sts, inc, 1 sc in 6 sts; ch 1 and turn – 13 sts
Rows 5 – 7: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 13 sts (3 rows)
Row 8: sc in each st
Sc crochet going around the sides and top of the body. When you reach the Row 8, sl st into the FLO of the 1st st of that row. Ch 2
We will work in the front loops of Row 8.
3 dc in 1st st, sk 1 and sl st in next
Repeat 2 more times.
To make the last shell (the 4th one), sk 1 after the sl st and 3 dc in the last st; ch 2 and sl st in the same st as last dc.
Fasten off and weave in the ends of the first piece (back of body). DO NOT fasten off the 2nd piece (front of the body).
ASSEMBLY
The face is sewn to the front piece (the one that has not been fastened off yet).
2. Using black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 6, 6 stitches apart.
3. Sew a line in the same space as the bottom of the eyes. The line is sewn between the eyes, a stitch apart from each eye.
4. Starting a row below the line we sewed, insert the needle in the closest space to the left and then go over the line and insert the needle in the same space again. Repeat until you get to the space next to the right cheek. This will make the mouth smiley.
5. Hold the front and back pieces together with the right side facing out and the wrong side facing in. The face of the jellyfish should be turned toward you.
6. Slip stitch through both pieces going up the right side first, then the top, and ending with the left side. Stop when you reach the shells. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
7. Stuff the jellyfish lightly.
8. Insert the end tail, so that it is in between the front and back pieces.
9. Close the body using the back loops. Fasten off and weave in the tail at the back.
10. Open the shells. We will sew the tentacles in between the front and back shells. Begin at one of the ends (left or right). Sew the first tentacle between the 1st and 2nd or the 3rd and 4th shell. Then sew the second tentacle at the opposite end. After you sew in those two tentacles, sew the sides of the shells.I used a tail from the tentacles.
11. Sew the rest of the tentacles between the two end tentacles.
12. To secure all the tails, insert through the same stitch, tie a knot, and stuff inside the body.
I don’t know about you, but I really dislike using stitch markers. So, usually, when I am making a doll and crocheting in the round, I slip stitch to join and chain 1. The problem with joining rounds is that it leaves a very visible mark at the place where we join. Recently, I learned about another way to join rounds which does not leave that mark and it is actually invisible. And the best part is that it is very easy to do.
When you have finished with a round, insert your hook in the back loop of the first stitch of that round and slip stitch. Refer to the three pictures below.
Then insert your hook in the front loop of the same stitch and single crochet (or crochet with whatever stitch you have been using). Refer to the left and middle pictures below. Repeat after each round to get that clean look.
The picture to the right shows the difference between using the invisible joint technique (left) and the slip stitch and chain 1 technique (right).
Well, I am excited to have finally published Part 5 of the Pocket Valentines, the Bee. I hope you like this little one as much as the other parts in the series.
Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the bee.
WINGS (x 2)
Suggested Color – White
Ch 5
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 2 ch, 4 sc in last ch; working on the opposite side of chain 1 sc in 3 ch; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 2: 1 sc in 2 sts, hdc, 4 dc inc, hdc, 1 sc in 2 sts – 14 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Set aside.
ANTENNAE (x 2)
Suggested Color – Dark Yellow
Ch 4
Row 1: 2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last 2 chains – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ARMS (x 2)
Suggested color – Dark Yellow
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Colors – Dark Yellow and Black
NOTE: I do not weave in the ends. I tie knots and hide them inside since we will make two pieces for the body and then crochet them together to join.
With Dark Yellow, ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 5: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Black
Rows 6 – 7: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Dark Yellow
Rows 8 – 9: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Black
Rows 10 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Dark Yellow
Row 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 12: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 14: sc in each st
Continue sc around the entire body, in every st and row.
Sl st to the 1st st of Row 14.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the yarn from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
With Dark Pink, sew a couple of times a row below the eyes to make the cheeks.
Sew the arms a row below the cheeks.
7. Place the two pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
8. Sew the wings at the back of the body.
9. Sew the antennae in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
And your little bee is finished!
I hope you enjoyed making this critter. Please let me know in the comments.
Another Pocket Valentine that was not planned. But this little axolotl would not leave me alone until I made it. 🙂 I hope you like this new addition to the Pocket Valentines series. Don’t forget to let me know in the comments below.
Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the axolotl.
You will notice that the pattern for the body and arms is the same as the other critters.
Arms (x 2)
Suggested color – Peach
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
External Gills (x 6)
Suggested Color – Dark Pink
Ch 3
Round 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch; going around the other side of the ch 1 sc – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested Colors – Peach and Dark Pink
With Peach, ch 8
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 5 chains; 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in last ch; going around the other side of the ch 1 sc in 6 chains; ch 1 and turn – 15 sts
Change Color – Dark Pink
Row 2: sc in 6 sts; (sc and hdc) in next st, (hdc, trbl, hdc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next; sc in last 6 sts – 19 sts
Fasten off both Peach and Dark Pink leaving a long Peach tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Color – Pink
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2nd piece.
Assembly
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
With Dark Pink, sew a couple of times a row below the eyes to make the cheeks.
Sew the arms a row below the cheeks.
7. Place the two pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
8. Use pins to position the External Gills in place – 3 on each side of the head. Then sew in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
9. Sew the tail on Row 10, at the back middle of the body.
This little fox was not planned. But once the idea popped into my head, I had to make it.
If you have made the other Valentine critters, you will notice that most of the instructions are the same as for the other animals. Only the tail and some of the facial details are different.
Notes: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the fox.
Arms (x 2)
Suggested color – Orange
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Ears (x 2)
Suggested Color – Orange
Round 1: in a mr 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 trbl, 1 hdc, 1 sc; do not sl st to join – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested Colors – Orange and White
With Orange, ch 3
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 2: 2 inc; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 3: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts (do not cut the orange yarn just yet)
Change Color – White (leave a long beginning tail)
Row 4: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 5: in BLO 2 dec; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 6: in FLO dec – 1 st
Fasten off.
Cut the orange yarn leaving a long enough tail to crochet around the orange part. With a needle carry it to the left side of the tail and begin sc around the orange part with the orange yarn. When you get to the white part, change color and use the white beginning tail. Sc around with white. Fasten off when you get to the orange. I did not slip stitch to join to the orange. I sewed the first orange and last white stitches together. Weave in all ends, except for the one you will use to sew the tail in place.
BODY – Back Piece
Suggested Colors – Orange
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
BODY – Front Piece
Suggested Colors – White and Orange
With White, ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 5: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (3 rows)
Change Color – Orange
Rows 6 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (6 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Do not fasten off just yet.
ASSEMBLY
With black, sew the nose. The nose is sewn between Rows 4 and 6. Refer to the first five pictures below. Count 4 spaces in start sewing the nose at the 4th space going down one row. I sewed once in each at first and then went back, and sewed one more time (the 4th picture). Once the bottom of the nose is filled, sew three lines at the top.
With black, sew the eyes a stitch away from the nose on Row 4. Sew several times. Tie knots to secure the yarn.
With orange, sew lines starting with the two stitches above the nose and going up increasing the lines: 2 above the nose, 3 lines in next row, 5 lines in following row, and 7 lines in last row. Secure the yarn by tying both ends with a knot.
Sew the arms at an angle between Rows 7 and 8.
5. Put the front and back pieces together with the wrong side touching and the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both inserting the hook through the front piece first. Stuff lightly before completely closing the piece. Slip stitch until the end. Weave in the tail.
6. Sew the tail in place. I sewed the orange part in place and left the white part free. I sewed the tail at an angle.
7. Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the ears in place. Use black fabric marker, to color the tip of the ears.
8. OPTIONAL: With the cotton swab and blush, add color to the cheeks.
Our little fox is finished!
I hope you enjoyed this part of the pattern. Let me know in the comments below.
Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the animals.
You will notice that the body pattern is the same one we used to make the bear from Part 2. You will also notice that some of the details are repeated throughout.
FROG DETAILS
Eyes (x 2)
Suggested Color – White
Round 1: 6 hdc in a mr; do not join with a sl st – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Cheeks (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Yellow
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Arms (x 2) – Same for Bunny and Pig
Suggested color – Green
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BUNNY DETAILS
Ears (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Grey
Ch 5
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 2 chains, 4 sc in last ch, on other side of ch 1 sc in 3 chains
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Cheeks (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested color – Light Grey
Round 1: 8 hdc in a mr; sl st to join
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
PIG DETAILS
Ears (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Round 1: in a mr 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 trbl, 1 hdc, 1 sc; do not sl st to join – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Muzzle
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Ch 4
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next; 4 sc in last ch; continue on other side of chain 1 sc in next, 2 sc in last ch; sl st to join – 10 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Ch 5
Row 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in next 3 chains – 12 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Colors – Green (Frog), Grey (Bunny), or Light Pink (Pig)
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2nd piece.
FROG ASSEMBLY
Sew the cheeks between Rows 3 and 6 (we are not counting the sc we did all around the body).
With black yarn, sew a line going from the mr of the left cheek to the mr of the right cheek.
Starting a row below the line we sewed, insert the needle in the closest space to the left cheek and then go over the line and insert it in the same space again. Repeat until you get to the space next to the right cheek. This will make the mouth smiley.
4. Sew the arms 1-2 rows below the cheeks.
5. Put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.
6. Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the eyes on either side of the body. Once the white part is in place, sew the shank buttons using white thread.
BUNNY ASSEMBLY
With black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 (not counting the sc going around the body), 5 sts apart.
Sew the eye detail with white yarn.
With Taupe, sew the nose in the 3 middle stitches. The horizontal line is sewn in the same spaces as the bottom of the eyes. Once the horizontal line is sewn, sew a line going down 2 rows.
Sew the cheeks below the eyes.
Sew the arms below the cheeks.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Just like we did with the frog, put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.
8. Sew both ears on the right side using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
PIG ASSEMBLY
With black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 (not counting the sc going around the body), 5 sts apart.
Sew the eye detail with white.
Sew the muzzle between the eyes. The top of the muzzle should be sewn to the same spaces as the bottom of the eyes.
Sew the arms a row below the muzzle.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Just like we did with the frog, put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.
Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the ears in place.
OPTIONAL: Add color to the cheeks with blush and a cotton swab.
Three more friends have been added to your collection.
Make sure to subscribe to my email list, so you don’t miss my next post. More Valentine’s Day friends will be joining the critters.
And let me know what you think of the pattern in the comments below.
After finishing Part 1 and Part 2, we are now ready to continue with Part 3 and make a tiny narwhal.
Remember that this pattern consists of several parts. You can click on the links below to jump to any of the other parts. Some have not been posted yet but will be added soon.
Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the narwhal.
TOOTH/TUSK PATTERN
Suggested Color – White
Ch 5
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in last ch – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
TAIL PATTERN (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Blue (or Light Pink)
Ch 6
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next, hdc in next, sl st in last ch – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
FINS PATTERN (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Blue (or Light Pink)
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in last ch – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY PATTERN (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Blue (or Light Pink)
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 chains, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 6: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (4 rows)
Row 7: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and tun – 8 sts
Row 8: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 9: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 2 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts
Row 10: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts
Row 11: sc, in FLO 2 dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 12: in BLO 2 dec; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 2 sts
Continue sc all around the body, every st and row. Sl st to join to 1st st of Row 13.
Fasten off 1st piece. Do not break the yarn from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart. Sew the white eye detail on the side of each eye.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
5. Place the two pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
6. Using the whip stitch, sew the tooth in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece (see picture below). Make sure the tooth is centered.
7. We will continue sewing the tail and then the fins. We will again sew only to the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
8. Before sewing the fins in place, take the end tail and insert it through the beginning chain (see picture below), then pull. The fins are sewn a row below the mouth. So that they are not sticking too much to the side, I sewed 2 stitches of the fins to the body.
9. Once finished, tie knots and stuff the ends inside the body.
And now, you have completed Part 3 of the Tiny Valentines pattern. I hope you enjoyed making these sweet little narwhals. Let me know what you think in the comments below.
After finishing Part 1 of the Tiny Valentines (the envelope and speech bubble), we are ready to make Bear. I use the same size hook and yarn (or thread, in the case of the smaller version above) throughout the entire pattern and all its parts.
This pattern consists of several parts. You can click on the links below to jump to any of the other parts. Some have not been posted yet but will be added soon.
Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the bear.
EARS (x 2)
Suggested color – Taupe
Round 1: 6 hdc in a mr
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
MUZZLE
Suggested color – Pearl
Row 1: 6 sc in a mr; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts
Row 2: sc, 4 inc, sc – 10 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
TAIL
Suggested color – Taupe
Round 1: 8 hdc in a mr; sl st to join
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ARMS (x 2)
Suggested color – Taupe
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
NOTE: I do not weave in the ends. I tie knots and hide them inside since we will make two pieces for the body and then crochet them together to join.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Color – Taupe
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
Sew the muzzle on Rows 4 through 7.
Sew the nose using Black yarn. Insert the needle only through the two middle stitches of the muzzle that will be used for the nose. Sew several times.
Once finished with the nose, use the same yarn, and sew a line through the middle of the muzzle. I began the line at the magic ring hole.
With Black yarn, sew several times on Row 4 on either side of the muzzle to make the eyes. Once finished, use White yarn to sew an eye detail.
Sew the arms at an angle a row below the muzzle.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Put both pieces, back and front, together making sure they align. Sl st through both pieces.
When you are almost finished closing the piece, insert stuffing. Do not stuff too much. You only need to stuff a little to make sure the bear is not completely flat. Finish closing the piece. Weave in the ends or secure the ends by tying knots and hiding them inside the body.
10. Using the whip stitch, sew the ears in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
If you have used Drops Muskat wosrted weight, your bear will be about 2.5 inches tall. If you have used Lizbeth 20 with a 1.25 mm hook (for the smaller bear in the pictures at the beginning of the post), your bear will be about an inch tall. Please note that the finished size depends not only on the materials used, but also on your tension.
This year for Valentine’s Day, I wanted to create a design that is adorable, but also easy and quick to make; something that even a beginner can crochet without frustration; something that can be made last minute. My first idea was to put a tiny bear in an envelope. But once I made that, the idea of the speech bubble with the little heart came to me. Then while my testers were testing the pattern, I crocheted several other little animals using the pattern for the bear. And now, we have a pattern with several parts. Best of all, you have choices of what animal to make depending on who you are making this Valentine for.
And because the pattern is growing and because I wanted to make it easy to follow, I decided to split it in small parts.
Please note that the instructions for all Pocket Valentines will be available on my blog free of charge. If you’d like the PDF version which includes all patterns in a convenient downloadable document, you can visit my shops below.
Note: You will notice that when I decrease in the pattern, I either crochet in the BLO or the FLO. I do that because it makes the decrease neater, or invisible. You can do a normal decrease and insert the hook in both loops when decreasing if that is what you prefer.
SPEECH BUBBLE PATTERN
Suggested color – White
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 chains, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 6: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (4 rows)
Row 7: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 8: 1 sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 9: in FLO 2 dec; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 10: in BLO dec; ch 1 and turn – 1 st
Row 11: 1 sc
Sc all around the speech bubble, in every st and row. Slip stitch to join to the st of Row 11. You should have 31 sts.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
HEART PATTERN
Suggested color – Dark Pink
Round 1: in a mr 2 sc, hdc, 3 dc, ch 2 and sl st, ch 2 and 3 dc, hdc, 2 sc; sl st to join – 13 sts
Fasten off. Pull beginning tail to close the ring.
I used a hot glue gun to attach the heart to the speech bubble.
Set it aside and let’s continue with the Stamp and Envelope.
STAMP
Suggested Color – White
Ch 8
Row 1: in back bump of ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in every ch; ch 1 and turn – 7 sts
Rows 2 – 7: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 7 sts (6 rows)
Row 8: sc in each st – 7 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
STRAP
Suggested Color – Light Grey
Leaving a long beginning tail 23 fsc. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Set aside.
ENVELOPE – FRONT PIECE
Suggested Color – Light Grey
Ch 31
Row 1: in back bump of ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in every ch; ch 1 and turn – 30 sts
Rows 2 – 20: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 30 sts (19 rows)
Row 21: sc in each st – 30 sts
1 sc in each row going down the left side of the piece – 20 sts
2 sc in the corner st
1 sc in each st – 28 sts
2 sc in the corner st
Sc in each row going up – 28 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
ENVELOPE – BACK PIECE
Suggested Color – Light Grey
Ch 31
Row 1: in back bump of ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in every ch; ch 1 and turn – 30 sts
Rows 2 – 28: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 30 sts (27 rows)
Row 29: sc, in FLO dec, 24 sc, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 28 sts
Row 30: sc, in BLO dec, 22 sc, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 26 sts
Row 31: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 26 sts
Row 32: sc, in BLO dec, 20 sc, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts
Row 33: sc, in FLO dec, 18 sc, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 22 sts
Row 34: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 22 sts
Row 35: sc, in FLO dec, 16 sc, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 20 sts
Row 36: sc, in BLO dec, 14 sc, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 18 sts
Row 37: sc in each st – 18 sts
Sc in each row going down – 36 sts
2 sc in the corner st
1 sc in 28 sts
2 sc in the corner st
Sc in each row going up – 36 sts Fasten off and weave in the ends.
ASSEMBLY
Sew the stamp to the BACK PIECE between Rows 11 and 21. Weave in the ends.
Using black yarn, sew 3 black lines starting 2 rows below the stamp. The lines should be 12 to 14 stitches long and sewn two rows apart. Weave in the ends.
Using black yarn, sew three lines to the left of the stamp. The first line should be sewn on Row 15, the second line – on Row 17, and the last line – on Row 19. Weave in the ends.
Flip the back of the envelope so that the inside is facing you. Place the FRONT PIECE on top. Align the bottom and sides of the two pieces. Using red yarn, slip stitch through both starting at the top left corner of the FRONT (the rectangular piece). Slip stitch all around the left side, the bottom, and then the right side.
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and without fastening off pull the end out only of the BACK part of the envelope.
Continue slip stitching only through the top of the rectangle part of the envelope.
Once finished, fasten off and weave in the ends.
Insert hook in the same stitch where you last crocheted through the FRONT and BACK on the right. With red slip stitch all around the top of the BACK PIECE (the flap). Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Sew the strap on Row 15 or 16 making sure you can close the envelope and that the strap will hold it closed.
The idea to create a Unicorn Zombie was given to me by one of my followers on Instagram last year. It took me a while, but finally I was able to make this cute little guy. And I am so happy with the final look! The bone is a challenge though. 🙂
This version of the pattern is FREE. You can also find a PREMIUM version that includes a drawing of the unicorn that you can use to create fun Halloween cards. The premium version is a PDF file that you can conveniently download and print.
We will end Round 16 there. Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.
BODY
Turn the head upside down with the back of the head facing you.
You will notice that there are 2 sets of unworked stitches – 4 that are closest to you (this is where the back of the body will be once you make it) and 4 are further away from you (where the front of the body will be once you make it). Insert the hook in the 2nd to last st beginning with the back (closest to you) and with a sc join Clarity.
Round 1: sc again in same st where you joined thread and inc in next st
Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front
Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the front; do not grab the last st from the back)
Inc in next 3 sts
Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front
Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the back; do not grab the last st from the front)
Inc in last st
After you finish Round 1, you should have 16 sts.
Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts
Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)
Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts
Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts
Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 28 sts (2 rounds)
Round 9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 – 24 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the body well. Leave 8 stitches on each side of the body for legs. Mark the middle 8 stitches (4 at the front and 4 at the back) with thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs are aligned with the head.
LEGS (x 2)
Turn the body upside down (back side facing you) and with a sc join Clarity thread in one of the stitches you left for the 1st leg.
Round 1: sc in each st until you get to the thread marking the middle sts. Insert hook in same st as last sc and in the st at the other side of the body. 1 sc ; sc until the end of round – 8 sts
Round 2: sc around – 8 sts
Stuff well.
Round 3: 4 dec – 4 sts
Fasten off.
Repeat for the second leg.
Once finished, sew the middle 8 stitches to close.
Secure the stitches.
ARM
Crochet in spiral.
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts
Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)
Round 8: 4 dec – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BONE
Crochet tight.
Because I used thread, I didn’t need to stuff the bone. If you are using yarn, you may need to stuff a little.
Suggested color – DMC cotton perle 12 with a 1 mm hook (NOTE: I used yarn for the step-by-step pictures)
Ch 4
Round 1: 1 puff stitch in 2nd ch from hook (Please follow the steps below and refer to the pictures)
YO and insert hook through 2nd chain from hook, YO and pull (three loops on hook)
YO and pull through 2 loops (two loops left on hook)
YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (four loops on hook)
YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook)
YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (five loops on hook)
YO and pull through all loops (puff stitch created)
1 sc in next chain
2 puff stitches in last ch
Now we will crochet on the other side of the chain
1 sc in next ch
1 puff stitch in last ch
At the end of Round 1, you should have 6 stitches.
Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches. Leave one of the tails for sewing later.
EAR 1
Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (hdc, dc, hdc) in third st, inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 9 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
EAR 2
Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (1 hdc, ch 2 and sl st in 3rd st), inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 8 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
EYE
Suggested color: DMC cotton perle 12, black with a 1 mm hook
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 2: (1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 2; sl st to join – 10 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Use DMC cotton perle 12, color white thread to sew a few times in a stitch in the eye to make a large sparkle. Then sew a couple of times in another st to make a second sparkle (a bit smaller than the first one).
HORN
Suggested color – DMC metallic thread (2 or 3 strands)
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 2: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 3: in BLO (2 sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 5: in BLO (sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
TAIL (x 6)
Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant
Ch 6
Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
MANE (5 or 6)
Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant
Ch 15
Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 14 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ASSEMBLY
Sew the eye to the head, right above the muzzle. I sewed the eye on the left part of the face.
Using Curio size 10, black thread and a needle, sew a line going up 4 rounds at an angle on the right side of the head. The bottom of the line should be 7 stitches from the eye and the top – about 4 or 5 stitches from the top of the eye. Once the line is sewn (I sewed twice to make it thicker), sew 3 smaller lines crossing the longer one. Secure the thread.
Sew the horn 4 rounds above the eyes.
Sew the ears about 2 stitches behind the horn, about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the arm one round below the head and the bone – two rounds below the head making sure both align with the legs.
Sew the pieces you made for the tail at the back of the body, one or two rounds above the legs.
Sew the pieces you made for the mane at the back of the head, between the ears.
With black thread, sew a line going down the arm about four rounds. Then sew two smaller lines crossing the longer one.
With the Conch color (also light or salmon pink), cross stitch in 5 stitches below the right ear (about 2 rounds above the eye).
Using a small brush or cotton swab, apply your choice of color of the hard pastel around the scarred eye and arm patch. I also applied some on the broken ear, the bottom of the legs, and a little around the left eye (the round one).
I love everything about the fall season – the rain, the colors, the falling leaves. Everything…
And this year I was inspired to make a sweet little acorn. You can add a cute face or leave it plain for a more stylish fall decor.
The pattern is below.
Or you can download the free PDF by visiting my amigurumi patterns (dot) net store here: PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE
MATERIALS
Aunt Lydia’s size 10:
Light brown – acorn
Dark brown – acorn top
Light pink – cheeks
DMC cotton perle 12 (or single strand DMC floss)
Black – mouth
Plastic eyes – 3 mm
Clover Amour hooks – 1.5 mm and 1.00 mm
Stuffing
Clear tacky glue
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic ring
St(es) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Inc – increase
Dec – decrease (invisible decrease)
RS – right side
PATTERN
ACORN
Crochet in continuous rounds.
Round 1: (RS) with light brown 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: sc around – 6 sts
Round 3: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 4: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 6: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 7: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 8: (5 sc, inc) x 6 – 42 sts
Rounds 9 – 18: sc around – 42 sts (10 rounds)
If you are using safety eyes, attach them between Rounds 11 and 12, 7 spaces apart.
Round 19: (5 sc, dec) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 20: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 21: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 22: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Stuff firmly. You may need to stuff more before finishing the last round.
Round 23: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Round 24: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.
Images are as follows, Left to Right and Top to Bottom: A, B, C, D, E, F
STEM
Crochet tight. The stem is not stuffed.
Round 1: with dark brown 4 sc in a mr – 4 sts
Round 2: 4 inc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Round 3: sc in BLO – 8 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x 2 – 6 sts
Rounds 5 – 7: sc around – 6 sts (3 rounds)
ACORN CAP – Continue crocheting from where you stopped with the stem.
Round 8: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 9: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 10: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 11: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 12: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 13: (5 sc, inc) x 6 – 42 sts
Round 14: (6 sc, inc) x 6 – 48 sts
Rounds 15 – 18: sc around – 48 sts (4 rounds)
Round 19: (6 sc, dec) x 6 – 42 sts
Stuff the cap and place it on the acorn. Hold in place while crocheting the last round. Pictures B and C
Round 20: sl st around – 42 sts (Picture D)
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew Round 19 of the acorn cap to the space between Round 15 and Round 16 of the acorn. Because we did a round of slip stitch, we don’t need to sew every single stitch. Sew every 4 or 5 stitches. (Picture E)
SHAPING THE ACORN CAP
You can leave the acorn cap as is (Picture F) or you can create a slight indentation and add more shape to it (Picture G).
To do that, we will sew between Rounds 8 and 9 of the acorn cap pulling tightly to create the indentation. Use the same color thread you used to make the cap. I used ecru for the step by step pictures to show the process better.
Insert your needle through a stitch in the acorn and through a space between Rounds 8 and 9 of the acorn cap (Picture H). Insert the needle through the next stitch of the acorn cap (Picture I) and through any stitch of the acorn.
Pull tight while holding the beginning tail (Picture J).
Insert your needle through the same stitch in the acorn you just pulled it out of (Picture K) and through the next space in the acorn cap (Picture L).
Pull tight and insert your needle through the next space between Rounds 8 and 9 of the acorn cap and any one stitch of the acorn. Pull tight. (Picture M)
Repeat until you create an indentation all around the stem. Make sure to pull tight to create the indentation but be careful not to break the thread.
Images are Left to Right and Top to Bottom: G, H, I, J, K, L, M, and N
LEAVES (x 2)
Ch 6
Round 1: 1 sc in 4 sts, 3 sc in last st; going around the chain 1 sc in 4 sts; sl st to join sides and ch 1 – 11 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st; 3 hdc in 2nd st, sl st in next, (3 dc in 4th st, sl st in next) x 3; 3 hdc in 2nd to last st, 1 sc in last st; sl st in the sl st you made earlier; ch 3 and 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next; sl st in the sl st where you began the ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the stems of the leaves together and then to Round 8 of the acorn cap. The leaves are to the right of the eyes.
EYES: Glue the eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 7 spaces apart if you have not done so already.
CHEEKS: With light pink thread sew three times a round below each eye, about 3 stitches long.
MOUTH: Use DMC cotton perle 12 black thread (or single strand DMC floss).
Insert both ends a stitch away from each eye. Pull until you have enough thread to form the smile.
Put clear tacky glue on the black thread and press on the acorn’s face with the back of your hook forming a cute smile.
Images are Left to Right and Top to Bottom: O, P, Q, R, and S
Baby Panda and Baby Bear were a special request from my daughter.
Because they are only 1.5 inches tall (in sitting position), they fit perfectly in her dollhouse and she loves playing with them over and over and over.
The pattern is a quick and easy one to make. I used Copper for Baby Bear and White and Black for Baby Panda, but Curio has so many beautiful colors that you can make a whole collection of colorful baby bears. If you sew the eyes with Curio Black thread instead of using plastic eyes, these bears made in all of Curio colors can be used to teach little ones colors and counting and sorting and make math more fun!
You can download the PDF file here for free: BABY ANIMALS
MATERIALS:
Thread – Curio size 10 (various colors)
Natural – face and hands
Copper – bear costume
Black and White – panda costume
Pistachio/Tea Rose – binky
Plastic eyes – 2 mm
Hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
Stuffing
Tacky glue
Cotton swab and blush
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic ring Inc – increase
Ch – chain Dec – decrease
St(es) – stitch(es) Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch Hdc – half double crochet
HEAD
Join rounds with a slip st and chain 1.
Round 1: with ecru 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Rounds 5 – 10: sc around – 24 sts (6 rounds)
Round 11: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 12: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Stuff the head.
Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts
BODY
Change color depending on animal costume. Continue crocheting in spiral.
If you are making a baby panda, use black thread for Rounds 14 – 17. Then change color to whiteto finish the body.
Rounds 14: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 15: (2 sc, inc) x 4 – 16 sts
Rounds 16 – 17: sc around – 16 sts (2 rounds)
Round 18: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts
Round 19: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts
Rounds 20 – 23: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)
Round 24: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 25: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Stuff the body.
Round 26: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off and secure the stitches. Set aside.
ARMS (x 2):
Round 1: with ecru 5 sc in a mr – 5 sts
Round 2: (inc, sc) x 2, inc in last st – 8 sts
Round 3: sc around – 8 sts
Change color depending on animal costume.
Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x 2 – 6 sts
Rounds 5 – 9: sc around
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
LEGS (x 2):
Use the color for animal costume.
Round 1: (2 sc, 3 hdc, 2 sc) in a mr – 7 sts
Round 2: sc inc in 2 sts, hdc inc in 3 sts, sc inc in 2 sts – 14 sts
Rounds 3 – 5: 14 sts (3 rounds)
Round 6: 1 sc in 3 sts, 4 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 10 sts
Stuff the foot.
Round 7: 1 sc in 3 sts, 2 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 8 sts
Rounds 8 – 10: sc around – 8 sts (3 rounds)
Stuff the leg lightly.
Round 11: 4 dec – 4 sts
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
EARS (x 2):
Use the color for animal costume.
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Rounds 3 – 5: sc around – 12 sts (3 rounds)
Round 6: sl st around – 12 sts
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
TAIL:
Use the color for animal costume.
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 12 sts (2 rounds)
Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
HAT:
With animal color
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Rounds 6 – 10: sc around – 30 sts (5 rounds)
Round 11: 1 sl st in next 2 sts
BINKY:
Leave a long tail before you begin.
Round 1: with pistachio 8 sc in a mr
Sl st to join and fasten off.
ASSEMBLY:
Glue the eyes between Rounds 8 and 9, about 5 stitches apart.
Use the eyes as a guide when sewing the legs and arms.
The legs are sewn between Rounds 22 and 23. Turn the doll to one side. The very back of the leg should be about 6 stitches away from the eye (the foot would be closer to the animal’s tummy that way). Sew several times and in several places so the leg is securely attached to the body. Then repeat with the other leg.
Sew the arms on Rounds 15 and 16. Turn the body to one side (just like we did with the legs). The back end of the arm should be about 4 stitches away from the eye. I sewed the back of the arms to the body and then I sewed the “hands” to the belly, so they stay snugged.
Position the hat so it’s about 4 rounds above the eyes and sew it to the head.
Using the whip stitch, sew the ears on Rounds 2 through 5 of the hat. Once you finish, wet the ears and press the middle with the back of a metal hook. This will give the ears a nice shape.
Sew the tail at the back of the bear, between the legs. Before finishing, insert a little stuffing.
Before attaching the binky to the face, insert the mr tail through the mr.
Insert the needle through a front loop on any stitch on the right side of the piece. Refer to the picture on the right.
Before pulling the needle all the way through the stitch, wrap the thread around it 10 times. Carefully pull the needle through the thread and the stitch. Then insert the needle back through the mr and pull.
Attach the binky to the face, a round below the eyes. I used tacky glue in addition to sewing it to the face.
Use a cotton swab and blush to add a little pink to the cheeks.
This blog is for crochet mostly. But I also love baking. So I decided to share with you a few of my favorite recipes.
I am not a professional baker. I am just typing these recipes the way my grandma and my mom have written them in their notebooks. I hope you like them.
The first recipe comes from one of my grandma’s friends. I made this apple cake for the first time when I was a kid. My mom used to make it a lot too. It is truly a family favorite.
The only thing I have changed is the amount of sugar. I only add 1/2 cup sugar so I can use the cake (or muffins) for breakfast. To me, they are sweet enough that way.
Ingredients:
4 eggs
3/4 cup white sugar (I only add 1/2 cup)
1/2 cup vegetable oil
4 apples (medium size)*
2 tblsp cinnamon
2 cups flour (scoop with the measuring cup and level with a butter knife)
1 tsp baking soda
Optional: walnuts and/or dried cranberries
*You can use whatever apples you have. I have made these with just granny smith, or just fuji, golden delicious, or even a mix. The muffins always come out delicious.
Instructions:
Heat oven to 350F and spray your muffin tin or cake pan with cooking spray.
Beat eggs and sugar until white.
In the meantime, grade the apples.
Add the oil and graded apples.
Add the cinnamon, flour, and soda and beat until well mixed.
Add chopped walnuts and/or cranberries.
Bake at 350F until a toothpick comes out clean. If you are making muffins, it takes about 15 minutes to bake.
NOTE: I have only made this recipe the way I have written it here. I don’t know if you can substitute the oil for something else, or the flour, etc. You can try different substitutions if you’d like, but I don’t know what would work and what wouldn’t.
Last week, I had a CAL on Facebook and Instagram and I loved seeing everyone’s wips as they followed along and made these cute little dolls – a leprechaun, a bunny, and a Santa.
Now that the CAL has ended, I thought it will be much more convenient to have the pattern in one place and not spread out in several different social media posts. So, I have put together a PDF file with detailed instructions and many step by step pictures. Just click on the link below to access the file.
These tiny strawberries are very quick to make. You need under an hour to finish one (I am slow at crochet; some of you might need less than 30 minutes). But they are super cute! I am planning on making at least 10 and putting them in a small favor jar (the one in the picture is 3.4 oz).
Materials:
Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread – red, green, and white
Clover Amour crochet hook, 1.5 mm
Stuffing
Sewing needle
Hot glue gun (or tacky glue if you prefer)
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
trbl – treble crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease (invisible)
Strawberry Pattern:
Crochet in spiral.
Round 1: with red 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Rounds 4 – 5: sc around – 18 sts
Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 7: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Rounds 8 – 10: sc around – 30 sts
Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Start stuffing the strawberry. You will need to stuff more before finishing the last round.
Round 13: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Round 14: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off and finish off. Insert the beginning and end tail through the same stitch, tie a knot, and stuff the ends inside the strawberry.
Leaves Pattern:
Round 1: with green, 10 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 10 sts
Round 2: *in same stitch (1 hdc, 1 trbl, ch 1, and 1 hdc), sl st in next* repeat 5 times
Fasten off and tie a knot securing the beginning and end tail. Set aside.
Stem Pattern:
With green, ch 6
1 sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st in back bump of each ch – 5 sts
Fasten off.
Insert the ends of the stem through the mr hole of the leaves. Tie knots with the ends of the leaves and the stem and cut excess thread.
Glue to the top of the strawberry. Do not glue down the tips of the leaves.
OPTIONAL: Use white to sew small Vs around the strawberry.
And your tiny strawberry is finished! Now make a whole bunch more! These are FUN.
This Baby Penguin pattern happened by accident. I was actually trying to make a little puppy but somewhere in the process, I decided that the puppy looks more like a penguin. I am loving this little guy! He is super cute and very, very quick to make. There is almost no sewing which to me is always a plus!
This is a free version of the pattern. If you would like a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive PDF file could be downloaded from my Etsy or Ravelryshops. The premium version also includes more step by step pictures as well as a pattern for a tiny Santa hat to go with your little Baby Penguin.
MATERIALS:
Thread:
DMC Baroque size 10, white – body
Aunt Lydia’s size 10, color of your choice – coat and flippers
Aunt Lydia’s size 10, yellow – beak
Aunt Lydia’s size 10, light pink – cheeks
Hook: 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
Plastic eyes, 2 mm (or use black thread to sew the eyes)
Stuffing
Sewing needle and scissors
Tacky glue
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic ring Trbl – treble crochet
Ch – chain Inc – increase
St(es) – stitch(es) Dec – decrease
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
NOTES:
Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
This doll is crocheted with the RS (right side).
When decreasing (sc2tog), use the invisible decrease technique.
PATTERN
BODY
Round 1: with white 6 sc in mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Rounds 5 – 6: sc around – 24 sts
Round 7: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 8: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts
Rounds 9 – 11: sc around – 36 sts
Round 12: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts
NOTE: Stuff the body well. You may need to stuff more before finishing the last round.
Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 15: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Round 16: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off. Finish off and secure stitches. Set aside.
COAT
Do not cut the tail from the magic ring. We will need it later.
Round 1: with pink 6 sc in mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 5: sc around – 24 sts
NOTE:We will start crocheting in rows, but the count will continue from where we stopped with the rounds.
Row 6: 1 sc in 16 sts; ch 1 and turn – 16 sts
Row 7: (3 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 20 sts
Row 8: (4 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts
Rows 9 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts
Row 12: sc in each st do not turn but continue up the side
Sc 5 sts evenly spaced
1 sc in last worked st of Round 5. See Picture A.
1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next, 1 trbl in next, 1 hdc in next, 1 sc in next 3 sts. You should have 9 sts across the top.
Continue down the side. Sc 5 sts evenly spaced. SeePicture B
NOTE:We will go back to rounds. The count continues from where we stopped with the rows.
Insert the beginning tail of the coat through the magic ring of the body and out through another stitch.
Then place the coat on the body and continue with the next round.
Round 13: 1 sc in next 24 sts, ch 8 and 1 sc in 1st st of Round 13 (that counts as the 1st st of Round 14) – 32 sts See Picture C
Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 15: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts
Round 16: 8 dec – 8 sts
Fasten off and finish off.
Secure the stitches by inserting the beginning and ending tails through the same stitch, tying a knot, and stuffing it inside the body.
FLIPPERS (x 2)
With pink, 8 hdc in mr
Do not join to other side. Leave a tail for sewing. Fasten off and set aside.
ASSEMBLY:
Using the yellow thread, sew the beak starting with the treble stitch from the coat and going one round down on the body. I sewed a few times.
Glue the plastic eyes with tacky glue a round below the coat and 2 sts away from the beak.
With pink thread, sew twice directly under each eye to create the cheeks.
Sew the flippers 2 sts from the edge of the coat, about a round under the round where you glued the eyes. The flippers are sewn with the wrong side facing out. Picture D shows the left flipper. When you finish sewing, insert both ends through the same stitch of the coat, tie a knot, hide the excess thread inside the coat.
NOTE: For the right flipper, weave the ending tail through a few loops to get to the other end of flipper. That way you can sew it to the penguin with the wrong side facing out. See Picture E
OPTIONAL: Make it an ornament by inserting a thin ribbon through the top of the penguin.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
If you have used the materials suggested, your baby penguin should be about 1 inch (about 2.5 cm) tall.
Thank you for visiting my blog! I hope you enjoyed this pattern.
Let me know in the comments section below. I would love to hear from you!
I thought little Mr. Chatters needed a house so I made him one.
This is a super quick and easy project. I am even thinking of making several to create a village. Wouldn’t that be fun?!
Note, this house will fit a squirrel made with Oren Bayan cotton perle 12 (or Lizbeth 40) and a 1 mm hook.
Materials:
1. Lizbeth 10 thread: light brown
2. Crochet hook, 1.5 mm
3. Oren Bayan cotton perle 12 (or Lizbeth 40): green and dark brown
4. Crochet hook, 1 mm
5. Acorn top (have several handy to pick the one that will fit your house)
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
BLO – back loop only
FLO – front loop only
House:
With Lizbeth 10 light brown thread and a 1.5 mm hook
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc; sl st to join and ch 1 Round 2: 8 inc; sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8; sl st to join and ch 1 – 24 sts Turn your work. We will leave the wrong side at the bottom and the right side will be on the inside of the house.
Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 24 sts Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x 8; sl st to join and ch 1 – 32 sts Rounds 6 – 10: sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 32 sts Round 11: sl st around Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Door:
With Oren Bayan 12 green and a 1 mm hook Ch 4 Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next; 4 sc in last ch; on opposite side of chain 1 sc in last 2 chains; ch 1 and turn Row 2: 1 sc in 2 sts; 4 inc; 1 sc in last 2 sts
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off. Sew to house.
Cross stitch two windows with dark brown Oren Bayan thread on either side of the door, about 2 stitches apart in the following pattern
XX XX
Pick an acorn top that fits for the roof of the house.
And your wee little acorn house is finished!
Make several and create a village! Make some taller, some shorter, some wider, some thinner! Use your imagination!
A while ago I had this idea to create an autumn elf pattern. Once I made the doll, however, I started adding to it – a dress, a shrug, a hat, hair… Then came the wagon. Of course, the little doll needed a wagon. How else would she gather acorns and leaves?
The entire pattern set which also includes an adorable squirrel friend (Mr. Chatters) will be available in my shops tomorrow.
But today, I wanted to share with you the pattern of the little red wagon. I hope you like it.
MATERIALS:
Thread: red, black, and dark brown (very small piece of the the handle of the wagon
I used Oren Bayan cotton perle 12 but you can use any size thread or yarn that you like. The size should be the same size that you used to make the doll. A good substitute for Oren Bayan thread is Lizbeth 40.
Crochet hook – 1 mm
A piece of plastic or cardboard
Hot glue gun
Wire (optional)
Sewing needle
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR
– magic ring
Sc
– single crochet
Ch
– chain
BLO
– back loop only
Hdc – half double crochet
Inc – increase
Sl st – slip stitch
Wheels (x 8):
Round 1: with
black thread, mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring;
sl st to join and
ch 2 – 8 sts
Round 2: in the
BLO 2 hdc in each st; sl st to join – 16 sts
Fasten off.
With the right
side out, sew the wheels two by two to make them thicker.
Weave in the ends and set aside.
Wagon:
With
the red thread, make two bottom pieces. When you finish the first one, fasten
off and weave in the ends. Then begin the second piece.
Ch
19
Row
1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until end of row; ch 1 and turn –
18 sts
Rows
2 – 11: 1 sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 18 sts
Row
12: 1 sc until the end of row – 18 sts
Finish
off the first piece.
Make
the second piece but do not fasten off.
Trace the piece on a piece of plastic or cardboard and cut out the piece. Trim so it will fit between the two crocheted pieces of the wagon we just made.
Put the two crocheted pieces together. Chain 1 without turning. Continue crocheting going down on the side. 1 sc in each space. When you get to the corner, ch 1 and continue crocheting along the bottom of both pieces.
When
you get to the next corner, ch 1 again and go up the side of the two pieces.
When you get to the corner (you will have 3 of the sides crocheted together), insert the plastic piece inside.
Ch 1 and continue crocheting in each stitch to close.
When
you get to the last corner, sl st to join the round and ch 1.
That’s
the end of Round 1. In this round, you should have 64 stitches (this includes
the 4 chains you made at each corner of the bottom of the wagon.
Round 2: in BLO 1 sc in each stitch
and chain; sl st to join and ch 1 – 64 sts
Rounds 2 – 4: in both loops 1 sc in
each stitch; sl st to join and ch 1 – 64 sts
Round 5: 1 sc in each stitch; sl st to
join – 64 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
In the 5 middle front loops of the wagon (either one of the shorter sides), we will create a little part to which a piece of thread will be attached to pull the wagon. Insert the hook in one of the loops and 1 sc.
1 sc in the next 4 loops; ch 1 and turn
With a sewing needle, insert the tail through the front loop (here you made the 1st sc of the first row). Secure the stitches.
Insert thread through the brown part and tie a knot. Tie the other end too to create a loop so the doll can “hold” the end of the wagon’s handle.
Then with the glue gun, glue the wheels to the sides of the wagon.
When Marcia Scarpelli contacted me and told me about International Amigurumi Day, I jumped up and down at the idea.
She and her friend, Bianca Moraes, had been researching the history of the International Day of Crochet and found out that someone just started it because they wanted to. Well, Marcia and Bianca wanted to create an International Day to celebrate Amigurumi and here we are…
April 25th is now the official day to celebrate the wonderful art of amigurumi! And there are so many ways to celebrate!!!
Here are some fun ideas:
Buy that amigurumi pattern that has been sitting in your cart forever. You know you want it! And April 25th is just the perfect day to get it.
Get together with some other amigurumi lovers to crochet, share ami stories, etc.
Create a collage of your favorite amis (you may want to make several collages; if you are like me, you have made hundreds of cute amis and you LOVE them all equally).
Start a new ami project.
Finish an ami project you have started ages ago.
Write a post about why you love amigurumi.
Introduce someone to amigurumi. Spread the LOVE!
Display that ami collection you have! Show the world your love for amigurumi and your amazing talent!
Learn a new technique! Advanced or beginners, there is always a lot to learn!
Don’t forget to use the tags #amigurumiday #diadoamigurumi #amiday on social media to spread the news!
For more fun ideas on how to celebrate and a little more information about this holiday and amigurumi, head over to Sweet Softies. Jade wrote a wonderful and very informative post about this super special holiday!
I made a promise a long time ago to someone that I will write up the pattern of this turtle and post it for free on my blog. That was years ago. Recently I discovered that I had lost the pattern for the original turtle that I made at least 4 years ago. So, I decided to not waste any more time and create a new one and this time write the pattern, take the pictures, and post it. And here we are! I hope you enjoy it.
COPYRIGHT: This pattern is intended for PERSONAL USE only. You may not sell or share the pattern in any form, or distribute it (full or partially), or post it on the Internet, or translate it into other languages.
You may sell the finished products created
from this pattern. Any items for sale must state in the item description that
they are based on ‘PinkMouseBoutique’ pattern and also include a link to my
website (www.pinkmouseboutique.com).
The items you sell based on this pattern must feature only your own photographs. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.
NOTE: For the step by step photos, I used Loops&Threads CAPRI yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR
– magic ring
Sc
– single crochet
Ch
– chain
BLO
– back loop only
FLO – front loop only
Trbl
– treble crochet
Inc
– increase
Dec
– decrease
Sl
st – slip stitch
RS – right side
PART 1: Shell – Top and Bottom
TOP SHELL
Use variegated
thread of your choice.
Crochet
in continuous rounds.
Round
1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round
2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round
3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round
4: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts
Rounds
5 – 7: 28 sc (3 rounds)
Round
8: in FLO (sk 1, 3 trbl in next, sk 1, sl st in
next) repeat until the end of this round
You
should have 7 shells at the end of Round 8.
Leave
a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
BOTTOM SHELL
Use
ecru thread.
Follow
instructions of top shell until Round 4.
Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts; end the round here
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
PART 2: Head and Legs
HEAD
Use ecru
thread.
Crochet
in continuous rounds.
Round
1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round
2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Rounds
3 – 5: 16 sc (3 rounds)
Round
6: 3 sc, 5 dec, 3 sc – 11 sts
Start
stuffing the head. Stuff firmly. You will need
to
stuff a little more after Round 7.
Round
7: 4 sc, sc3tog (dec), 4 sc – 9 sts
Rounds
8 – 10: 9 sc (3 rounds)
Fasten
off.
EYES: For the little turtle I used 2 mm plastic
eyes. After I finished the head, I glued them on Round 4, 7 to 8 stitches apart
using tacky glue.
For the yarn turtle, I used black yarn to sew the eyes. The positioning of the eyes is the same.
Pull the two tails through the same stitch at the back of the head (neck area). We will use those later to sew the neck to the shell so the turtle will stay up straight.
LEGS x 4
Use ecru
thread.
Crochet
in continuous rounds.
Round
1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts
Rounds
2 – 3: 6 sc
Fold the leg and crochet through the front and back stitch closing the leg (see picture). You should have 3 stitches left.
Fasten
off.
Pull the yarn tails through the same stitch. Make a knot and cut the excess ends. Stuff the rest inside the legs.
PART 3: Assembly
We
will start by sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell of the turtle.
Use
the tail from the bottom shell you left earlier.
Refer to the diagram below when sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell.
When
sewing the pieces together, the RS of the bottom shell should be turned towards
you.
Refer to the pictures below.
………………RIGHT SIDE (RS)…………………………………….WRONG SIDE (WS)…………..
Sew in
the FLO. The BLO will be used to sew the bottom and top shells together.
To sew the legs and head to the bottom shell, we will use the long tail we left after finishing the bottom shell. When you are not sewing body parts, sew through the stitches of the bottom shell to carry the thread. See pictures below.
Start by sewing one of the legs. You will need to sew the three stitches of the leg to only two BLO stitches of the bottom shell.
BLO stitches are left empty (see picture below). We will use them later to sew the bottom and top shells together.
Sew
around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the head. You will be
attaching 4 or 5 stitches of the front of the head (neck area) to only 3
stitches of the shell. Make sure the head is centered. Refer to the diagram on
Page 6 and to the pictures below.
NOTE: The back four stitches of the head (neck area) will be attached to the top shell later.
Sew
around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the second leg the
same way you did the first.
Sew
around for 4 stitches to carry the thread and attach the third leg.
Sew
around for five stitches to carry the thread and sew the last leg.
Weave in the ends.
Sew
the top and bottom shells together using the empty loops you left earlier.
Stuff the
shell well before finishing.
NOTE: If you are making your turtle with yarn, make sure you are not over stuffing. If you over stuff the body, the turtle’s belly (bottom shell) will not stay flat and the turtle will not be able to stand straight on its own.
Sew
the neck to the shell.
Use water to straighten the details you made earlier for the top shell.
And voila! You have made a tiny turtle!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know in the comments below.
Toadstools are the cutest! So when I was asked by a customer to make a larger toadstool container, I couldn’t say “no.” But don’t be deceived by the word “larger.” This adorable container is still very small with a diameter of 2 inches and a height – about 2.5 inches.
Materials:
Thread – Lizbeth 10: white and red
Crochet hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
Sewing needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease (use invisible decrease)
Pattern:
Start with the base or the container. Use Lizbeth 10 white thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Keep your stitches tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts
Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts
Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts
Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts
Rounds 11 – 23: sc around – 80 sts
Do not chain 1 after Round 23.
Round 24: sl st around – 80 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
We will make the top of the toadstool with red thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Keep your stitches tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts
Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 48 sts
Round 9: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts
Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts
Round 11: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts
Rounds 12 – 15: sc around – 72 sts
Round 16: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts
Round 17: (9 sc, inc) x 8 – 88 sts
Round 18: (10 sc, inc) x 8 – 96 sts
Rounds 19 – 24: sc around – 96 sts
Round 25: (10 sc, dec) x 8 – 88 sts
Round 26: (9 sc, dec) x 8 – 80 sts
Do not chain 1 after Round 26.
Round 27: sl st around – 80 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Once you finish both parts, you can create the spots of the toadstool either by cross stitching them or by sewing hashtags. See my miniature toadstool container pattern for an example: MINIATURE TOADSTOOL.
I chose to cross stitch the spots. I made a few different sizes. See picture below.
Your container is complete! You can use it to store small items such as safety pins, paper clips, stitch markers, buttons, etc. Or you can use it as a doll house for a small doll.
If you have been following me for a while, you know that I love making houses for my dolls. So, even before I made the polar bear (see my last post), I knew I was going to make an igloo for him. And since tomorrow it’s Christmas, I also had to make a Christmas tree. I hope you like this set and enjoy making it!
And if you have missed my last post, click HERE to see the pattern for the polar bear.
Materials:
Super chunky yarn – white
Worsted weigh yarn – light blue, green, brown
Crochet hooks: 6 mm (Clover Amour) for igloo and 4 mm (Clover Amour) for the Christmas tree
Large piece of cardboard (optional)
Sewing needle
Hot glue gun (optional)
Stuffing
Abbreviations:
Mr – magic ring
Ch – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Inc – increase
Dec – decrease
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back look only
Pattern
Base Pattern:
We will start by creating the base. Use white yarn.
Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Crochet Round 6 in the BLO.
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 2; (4 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 48 sts
Continue crocheting in both loops.
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 2; (5 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 56 sts
Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 2; (6 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 64 sts
Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 2; (7 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 72 sts
Round 10: 72 sc
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Optional: You can make a second base, put a cardboard piece between the two, and sew the two together. That way your base will be sturdier. I left mine without a bottom base for now.
Basket Pattern:
After finishing the base, we will create the inside of the igloo.
Continue with white yarn.
For Round 1, crochet in the FLO stitches of Round 5.
Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Rounds 1 – 3: 40 sc
Round 4: 40 sl st
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Igloo Pattern:
Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: 32 sc
Round 6: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Round 7: (9 sc, inc) x 4 – 44 sts
Note:If you want a tighter fit, do not make Round 7 increases but continue with 40 stitches in each round. I wanted a looser fit so my daughter can open and close the container easily.
Rounds 8 – 10: 44 sc
Note:We will now start crocheting in rows to create an opening for the igloo. We will continue the count from where we stopped with the rounds.
Row 11: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn
Row 12: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn
Row 13: 39 sc; turn
Row 14: 39 sl st
Igloo Opening:
Row 1: When you get to the opening, make 3 sc going up; then 6 sc (in the 5 sts you left empty and 1 extra from where you were joining rounds earlier); and make another 3 sc going down the opening. See pictures below.
Once you make the 3rd sc going down chain 1 and turn. You should have 12 sts for the opening of the igloo.
Row 2: 12 sc
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Optional: To make the igloo more detailed, you can sew blue lines using the back stitch. I started on Round 4 of the igloo and went all around. Then I did the same for Rounds 8 and 12. I also used the back stitch to sew around the opening of the igloo. Then every few stitches I sewed down starting from the very top. You can make the “ice bricks” of the igloo as big or small as you wish.
Christmas Tree Pattern:
Start with green yarn and 4 mm crochet hook. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts
Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts
Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts
Round 4: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 5
Round 4: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 3. (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts
Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts
Round 6: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 7
Round 6: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 5. (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts
Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts
Round 8: in FLO (2 hdc, inc) x 8
Round 8: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 7. (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts
Round 9: (4 sc, dec) x 3 – 15 sts
Round 10: (3 sc, dec) x 3 – 12 sts
Stuff the Christmas tree well. Change color to brown.
Rounds 11 – 12: 12 sc
Finish stuffing the tree and the tree trunk.
Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
You can use festive buttons and beads to decorate your tiny Christmas tree.
It’s almost Christmas and I wanted to create a tiny design that anyone can make. This little polar bear is super special. He is tiny and adorable and comes with his very own… Hmm… I think I will keep that a secret until next week.
NOTE: This pattern is designed by Diana Moore from PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE. This pattern is available for free only on my blog pinkmouseboutique.com. If you see the pattern and pictures posted on another website, please let me know. Thank you!
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn:
white – for the bear
red – scarf
black – eyes and nose
Clover Amour crochet hook, 3.25 mm
Sewing needle
Stuffing
Glue gun
Snowflake button (optional)
ABBREVIATIONS:
mr – magic ring dec – decrease
ch – chain inc – increase
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
NOTES:
Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
Use the invisible decrease technique when decreasing.
PATTERN:
We will begin by making the head, body, and legs (in one piece).
Start with white yarn.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Rounds 4 – 7: 24 sc
Round 8: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts
Round 9: (sc inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Rounds 10 – 13: 24 sts
Stuff the head and body well.
The legs will be made with 9 sts on each side of the body. The 6 sts (3 in the front and 3 in the back will be sewn later).
Leg 1:
Continue from where you stopped with the body.
Round 1: 8 sc, sk 15 sts, 1 sc – 9 sts
Rounds 2 – 3: 9 sc
Leave a long tail and fasten off.
Leg 2:
Leave 6 sts in the middle for sewing (3 in the back and 3 in the front of the body). Join yarn to one of the 9 sts you left for the 2nd leg. Continue following the instructions for the first leg.
Once you finish both legs, stuff them well, finish them off and secure the stitches.
Face:
Sew the eyes on Round 5, 5 stitches apart.
Sew the nose in the middle 3 stitches between the eyes. Then sew one long line starting from the middle of the nose and going down 2 rounds.
Arms (x 2):
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 5 sc in the ring – 5 sts
Rounds 2 – 5: 5 sc around
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
Ears (x 2):
mr, ch 1, 5 hdc in the ring
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
Tail:
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 sc
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
Scarf:
Use red yarn or any color of your choice.
Ch 66
Fasten off.
Assembly:
Sew the arms on Round 8 (or 9) of the body. Sew the tail in the back a round above the legs. Sew the ears on top of the head (a round below the magic ring). Using a cotton swab and blush, make pink cheeks. NOTE: Cover the body with a piece of fabric so the blush doesn’t stain it.
Fold the scarf in half and find the middle. With the glue gun, glue the middle of the scarf to the front of the bear (Round 9).
You will wrap it around a few times while gluing in a few places to make sure the scarf will stay in place. Note: Add only a little bit of glue at a time so it doesn’t look messy. Tuck both ends under the scarf and glue to secure.
Optional: Sew a small snowflake to the scarf (a little to one side).
And voila! You have made an adorable little polar bear! Now you can also add a ribbon to its head and make it an ornament. 🙂
Stay tuned! In a few days, this little guy will show you something special!
Ce modèle a été traduit en Français par Sylvie Conil.
Alors, l’autre jour j’ai fait un mignon petit elfe (qui fais seulement 2cm de haut) puis après, j’ai pensé que je devais à présent lui faire une petite maison rien qu’à lui. J’avais imaginé faire, depuis longtemps, une petite maison champignon pour une poupée et là c’était l’occasion idéale. Une minuscule petite maison parfaite pour mon micro elfe (base sur mon modèle intitulé “ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN’’). Mais bien sûr vous pouvez aussi vous en servir de coffre à bijoux, y mettre une bague, des petits boutons, ou encore une paire de boucle d’oreilles, des perles, etc… Ou juste vous en servir comme décoration sur votre bureau. Trop fun!
En tous cas, si vous décidez de faire le micro elfe base sur mon modèle “one inch doll pattern’’, utilisez le fil Lizbeth 80, avec un crochet 0.75 mm de la marque Clover Amour. Vous trouverez en note après les explications de la maison champignon, toutes les infos pour réaliser ce mignon petit elfe.
Matériel :
Fil Lizbeth 20 : rouge et blanc
Crochet taille 10 dans la marque « Boye », c’est-à-dire, un crochet en 1,3 mm
Aiguille à coudre
Ciseaux
Abréviations:
CM – cercle magique
ms – maille serrée
mc – maille coulée
aug – augmenter
dim – diminuer
Explications :
Bas
Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en blanc. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.
Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms dans le cercle – 8 m
Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m
Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m
Rang 4 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m
Rang 5 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m
Rangs 6 – 11 : 40 ms
Après le Rang 11 joignez par 1mc (qui comptera comme la 1ère m du rang suivant) mais ne faîtes pas de ml.
Rang 12 : 39 mc
Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.
Dessus
Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en rouge. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc, puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.
Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms – 8 m
Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m
Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m
Rangs 4 – 5 : 24 ms
Rang 6 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m
Rang 7 : 32 ms
Rang 8 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m
Rang 9 : (4 ms, aug) x 8 – 48 m
Rang 10 : (5 ms, aug) x 8 – 56 m
Rangs 11 – 14 : 56 ms
Rang 15 : (5 ms, dim) x 8 – 48 m
Après le Rang 15, joignez avec 1 mc (qui comptera comme la 1ère m du rang suivant) mais pas de ml.
Rang 16 : 47 ms
Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.
Optionnel : brodez des petits “hashtags” sur le dessus du champignon avec du fil blanc DMC coton perle 12. Après chaque hashtag, coupez le fil et faîtes un nœud. Coupez l’excédent de fil et ajoutez un point de colle pour le fixer de façon plus propre. Vous pouvez aussi rentrer les fils pour les cacher (mais c’est trop de travail pour moi ici ;)).
Et Voila! Vous avez terminé la petite maison champignon.
MICRO ELFE (quelques astuces utiles) :
J’utilise une loupe pour voir les points de façon plus nette. Ils sont vraiment minuscules ! De Plus, utiliser la loupe vous permettra de faire des points plus serrés et consistants.
Utilisez un petit bâton (style cure-dent, baguette) pour rembourrer la poupée avec la fibre polyester. C’est plus facile ainsi pour les mini poupées.
S’il vous est difficile d’utiliser le fil Lizbeth 80, essayer le Lizbeth 40 (DMC coton perle 12) avec un crochet en 0.9 mm ou encore le Lizbeth 20 avec un crochet 1.25 mm. Mais alors, utilisez plutôt pour faire la maison, le fil Aunt Lydia’s 10 avec un crochet 1.5 mm ou le Lizbeth 10 (avec le même crochet).
Chapeau de l’Elfe :
Utilisez le même type de fil et de crochet que pour la poupée (modèle ICI). Joignez chaque rang avec 1 mc et 2 ml.
Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 2ml, 6 demi-br dans le cercle – 6 m
Rang 2 : (2 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 8 m
Rang 3 : (3 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 10 m
Rang 4 : (4 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 12 m
Rang 5 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 14 m
Rang 6 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 16 m
Rang 7 : (7 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 18 m
Rang 8 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 21 m
Rang 9 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 24 m
Rangs 10 – 11 : 24 demi-br
Ajoutez un Rang supplémentaire de 24 demi-br si le chapeau vous semble trop petit. Enfilez le chapeau à votre lutin, ajustez le pour qu’il soit à la place désirée. Puis faîtes un rang de mc en le laissant sur la tête de la poupée (les mc sont seulement sur le tour du chapeau, pas sur la tête de la poupée). Le rand de mc resserrera assez le chapeau pour le maintenir en place afin qu’il ne tombe pas de la tête de votre lutin. Une fois le rang terminé, arrêter le travail et cousez le chapeau sur la tête de la poupée en quelques points (pour éviter qu’il ne tombe sur les yeux). Rentrez les fils.
A présent votre petit elfe est prêt pour rentrer dans sa petite maison!
So, the other day I made this cute little elf (only about 7/8 of an inch) and then I thought that I should make a house for it. I have been wanting to make a mushroom house for a doll for a long time now and this seemed like the perfect opportunity. The teeny little house is perfect for the micro elf (based on my ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN). But you can also put a ring, some small buttons, maybe small earrings, beads, etc. Or just use it as a cute decor on your desk. How fun!
By the way, if you decide to make the micro elf based on my one inch doll pattern, use Lizbeth 80 thread with 0.75 mm Clover Amour hook. See notes after the toadstool house pattern for more info on how to make the cute elf.
Materials:
Lizbeth 20: red and white
Crochet hook, size 10 (Boye)
Sewing needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
inc – increase
dec – decrease
Pattern:
Bottom
Start with Lizbeth 20, white thread. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Rounds 6 – 11: 40 sc
After Round 11 join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.
Round 12: 39 sl st
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Top
Start with Lizbeth 20, red. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Rounds 4 – 5: 24 sc
Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 7: 32 sc
Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Round 9: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts
Round 10: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts
Rounds 11 – 14: 56 sc
Round 15: (5 sc, dec) x 8 – 48 sts
After Round 15, join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.
Round 16: 47 sc
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Optional: Sew hashtags to the top part of the mushroom with DMC cotton perle 12 thread. After each hashtag, cut the thread and make a knot. Cut excess thread and glue down the ends for a more cleaner look. You may also weave in the ends (but that seems like too much work to me 😉 ).
And voila! You made a cute little mushroom container.
MICRO ELF (some helpful tips):
I used a magnifying glass to help me see the stitches better. They are tiny! Plus, looking through the magnifying glass will help you have tighter and more consistent stitches.
Use polyester batting to stuff the doll. It is much easier to stuff that micro doll with the batting.
If you are having a hard time using Lizbeth 80 thread, try Lizbeth 40 (DMC cotton perle 12) with 0.9 mm hook or maybe even Lizbeth 20 with 1.25 mm hook. Then just make the house with Aunt Lydia’s 10 and 1.5 mm hook or Lizbeth 10 (same hook).
Elf Hat:
Use the same type and hook you did to make the doll (pattern HERE). Join each round with a sl st and ch 2.
Round 1: mr, ch 2, 6 hdc in the ring – 6 sts
Round 2: (2 hdc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts
Round 3: (3 hdc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts
Round 4: (4 hdc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts
Round 5: (5 hdc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts
Round 6: (6 hdc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts
Round 7: (7 hdc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts
Round 8: (5 hdc, inc) x 3 – 21 sts
Round 9: (6 hdc, inc) x 3 – 24 sts
Rounds 10 – 11: 24 hdc
Add one more round of 24 hdc if the hat seems too small. Put the hat on the doll and adjust it to where you would like it to stay. Slip stitch around while the hat is on the doll (sl st only the hat, not the head of the doll). The slip stitch round will make the hat tight enough so it will not fall off the head of the doll. Once you finish that round, fasten off and sew the hat to the head in a few places (to make sure it does not fall over the eyes of the doll). Weave in the ends.
I knew I wanted to make some sort of a necklace house and a doll that would go inside. It took a while to start working on that project and when I did eventually start working on it, it took a few weeks to figure out the house design. I almost gave up. I am glad I didn’t because this new pattern is one of my favorites.
And to celebrate the release of the Tiny People in a Tiny House pattern (and the fact that it was published in the HHM printed issue), I created an extra outfit. I wanted it to be simple but to have more texture. So, I played around with the hdc stitch. Fun!
This outfit is specifically design for my newest dolls (see picture below).
Note: I have designed this dress to be permanently sewn to the doll. If you would like it to be removable, crochet in rows until you finished Round 2 (where you will have 32 sts). After that Round (but you will be working it in rows), you can start joining rounds. This should leave you enough opening in the back to be able to put on and take off the outfit. But always measure on your doll to make sure the outfit fits just right.
Pattern:
HAT
Chain 17
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook; 14 hdc; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts
Rows 2 – 21: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts
Row 22: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 1 and turn
Put the 1st and last row together and sc them together.
Leave a long tail for sewing and FO.
Insert needle through each row at the edge of the hat.
My daughter loves birds. So, for her birthday party, I made seven crochet birds – one for each of her guests. The kiddos loved them. My daughter likes to put hers in a little basket and walk around the house. I should make more because these cuties are perfect for a child to hold and great for learning colors or counting.
Materials:
Red Heart worsted weight yarn – 2 colors
Boye crochet hook – size G
Solid black eyes – 6 mm
Stuffing
Sewing needle
Notes:
Crochet in continuous rounds.
Use the invisible decrease technique.
Crochet with the right side out.
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
yo – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
Pattern:
Leave a long tail (you’ll make feathers later).
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts
Pull yarn to close the mr.
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Rounds 5 – 7: 24 sc
Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 9: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 10: (5 sc, inc) x 6 – 42 sts
Rounds 11 – 13: 42 sc
Round 14: (5 sc, dec) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 15: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 16: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Put the eyes on round 7. Leave 3 sts between them.
Round 18: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Stuff the bird.
Round 19: 6 dec x 6 – 6 sts
Fasten off.
Do not secure the stitches just yet. First, we will make the feathers on top of the head.
Feathers:
The feathers are made on top of the head of the bird. I made three feathers using the long tail I left before starting the magic ring.
Insert hook anywhere you want on top of the head (I keep it close to where the tail starts), YO, pull and sl st. Now make a ch of 6 or 7 (this is the smaller feather). Insert hook in same st you started, YO, pull and sl st. Make a ch of 10 or 11 (bigger feather). Insert hook where you started, YO, pull and sl st. Fasten off.
You can make the feathers longer by making longer chains.
Now you can finish off and secure the stitches. If you are not sure how to do that, follow the tutorials here:
You’ll make the beak a row below the eyes in the 3 sts between them. I start by making an outline (a little triangle). After you make the outline, you can keep sewing until you fill in the beak. I usually sew right in the middle (from the bottom of beak until very top).
And voila! You have a cute little crochet bird.
I hope you like this pattern. It’s the very first one I ever made.
Happy Crochet!
Pictures were taken by my very talented friend Kristen Willden.
Since my blog is called Pink Mouse Boutique, I had to create a mouse pattern. And this one is super adorable and very easy and quick to make. You can use any color thread or yarn. These mice are perfect to teach the children in your life about numbers, colors, sorting, counting, etc. The fun is endless! And I am so addicted to them!
Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread (color of your choice) + black for the eyes
Clover Amour, 1.5 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Sewing needle
Polyester stuffing
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dec – decrease
inc – increase
Notes:
Leave long beginning and end tails. We will need them later to braid the tail of the mouse.
Sew the eyes on round 15, 5 sts apart from each other.
Round 17: sc around – 20 sts
Stuff the body well.
Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x 4 – 16 sts
Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x 4 – 12 sts
Stuff more if needed before finishing Round 20.
Round 20: 6 dec – 6 sts
Leave a long tail and fasten off. Finish off and bring the tail all the way through the body of the mouse and through the magic ring.
Ears (x 2):
Leave long a long beginning tail.
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 2 – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 hdc inc; sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts
Round 3: sc around; sl st to join – 16 sts
Pull the mr tight and sew in place (about 3 rounds above the eyes). Bring the tails through the mr of the body.
Tail:
You should have 6 pieces of long thread coming out of the magic ring. Braid those until you reach a desired length for the tail. Make a knot and cut the excess thread.
And voila! You made a cute little mouse!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know what you think in the comments.
I love making mini balloons. They are perfect for any occasion. Or no occasion at all. And they are super easy and quick to make. If you are new to using thinner threads and smaller hooks, this might be the perfect starter pattern for you.
Materials:
Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread (colors of your choice)
Boye crochet hook – 1.3 mm
Polyester filling
Sewing needle
Wire
Glue gun
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
Pattern:
Make 3 balloons in three different colors.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 7 sc in the ring
Pull tight to close.
Round 2: 7 inc – 14 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 7 – 21 sts
Round 4 – 7: 21 sc
Round 8: (sc, dec) x 7 – 14 sts
Round 9: 14 sc
Stuff the balloon well before finishing the next round.
Round 10: 7 dec – 7 sts
Round 11: 7 sc
Round 12: 7 inc
Round 13: 2 sl st
Fasten off and finish off following this tutorial.
Cut the wire (about 3 inches long). Insert the wire into the balloon and glue with the glue gun.
Bow:
Leave long tails.
Chain 8
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook; 1 hdc in 5 chains; ch 2 and turn
Rows 2 – 15: 6 hdc; ch 2 and turn – 6 sts
Fasten off and sew both sides together. Fold and wrap the left over thread several times in the middle. Make sure to pull tight the first few times to shape the bow. Tie a knot in the back of the bow.
Make between 12 to 20 chains (twice) with the left over thread.
Put the balloons together and wrap thread around the middle of the wire. Wrap several times and glue with the glue gun to secure the thread. Now glue the bow to the thread you just wrapped around the wire.
And voila! You finished your balloons!
I hope you loved this pattern. Let me know what you think in the comments.
I love summer for so many reasons – the beach, the sun, the delicious ice cream… I know you can get ice cream any time of the year but wouldn’t you agree that in the hot summer months, ice cream is especially yummy?!
So, in celebration of the hot summer months, here’s a recipe for a no calorie ice cream cone. It is super quick and easy to make. Although if you are not used to making miniatures, start with thicker thread (Aunt Lydia’s 10 or Lizbeth 20 with 1.5 mm hook would be great).
Materials:
Oren Bayan cotton perle size 12 thread – two colors (one for the cone and one for the ice cream flavor)
Clover Amour hook – 0.9 mm
Stuffing
Sewing needle
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
BLO – back loop only
Notes:
Crochet in the round. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
This pattern is seamless. (because I hate sewing so I avoid it at all cost)
Pattern:
The pattern is worked from the top down – we will make the ice cream flavor first and then finish with the cone.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring
Close the ring. Join to 1st sc with a sl st and ch 1
Round 2: 6 inc; join with a sl st and ch 1 – 12 sts
Rounds 3 – 4: 12 sc; join with a sl st and ch 1 – 12 sts
Change color to brown (or whatever other color you picked for the cone).
Round 5: 12 sc in BLO; join with a sl st and ch 1 – 12 sts
From now until the end, we will crochet in both loops.
Round 6: (4 sc, dec) x 2; join with a sl st and ch 1 – 10 sts
Round 7: (3 sc, dec) x 2; join with a sl st and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 8: 8 sc; join with a sl st and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 9: (2 sc, dec) x 2
Slip stitch to join. Fasten off and secure the stitches.
Go back to Round 5 where you crocheted in the BLO. Use the thread for the ice cream flavor. Insert in a st and ch 1.
Round: *3 sc in 1st st; sl st in next* repeat until the end of this round
You should have 6 shells.
Fasten off and secure the stitches.
And voila! You have made a teeny tiny ice cream cone!
Leave me a comment to let me know what you think! 🙂
pinkmouseboutique.com 