Little Miss Turtle (Free Crochet Pattern)

I made a promise a long time ago to someone that I will write up the pattern of this turtle and post it for free on my blog. That was years ago. Recently I discovered that I had lost the pattern for the original turtle that I made at least 4 years ago. So, I decided to not waste any more time and create a new one and this time write the pattern, take the pictures, and post it. And here we are! I hope you enjoy it.

COPYRIGHT: This pattern is intended for PERSONAL USE only. You may not sell or share the pattern in any form, or distribute it (full or partially), or post it on the Internet, or translate it into other languages.

You may sell the finished products created from this pattern. Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘PinkMouseBoutique’ pattern and also include a link to my website (www.pinkmouseboutique.com).

The items you sell based on this pattern must feature only your own photographs. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.

To download the PDF follow the link here: LITTLE MISS TURTLE

MATERIALS:

  1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10:
    1. Ecru
    2. Variegated thread
    3. Black (for eyes)
  2. Crochet hook, 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
  3. Stuffing
  4. Plastic eyes (2 mm) – optional
  5. Clear tacky glue (if using 2 mm eye)
  6. Sewing needle

NOTE: For the step by step photos, I used Loops&Threads CAPRI yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring

Sc – single crochet

Ch – chain

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

Trbl – treble crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – decrease

Sl st – slip stitch

RS – right side

PART 1: Shell – Top and Bottom

TOP SHELL

Use variegated thread of your choice.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 5 – 7: 28 sc (3 rounds)

Round 8: in FLO (sk 1, 3 trbl in next, sk 1, sl st in next) repeat until the end of this round

You should have 7 shells at the end of Round 8.

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

BOTTOM SHELL

Use ecru thread.

Follow instructions of top shell until Round 4.

Round 5: 2 sl st Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

PART 2: Head and Legs

HEAD

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: 16 sc (3 rounds)

Round 6: 3 sc, 5 dec, 3 sc – 11 sts

Start stuffing the head. Stuff firmly. You will need

to stuff a little more after Round 7.

Round 7: 4 sc, sc3tog (dec), 4 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 8 – 10: 9 sc (3 rounds)

Fasten off.

EYES: For the little turtle I used 2 mm plastic eyes. After I finished the head, I glued them on Round 4, 7 to 8 stitches apart using tacky glue.

For the yarn turtle, I used black yarn to sew the eyes. The positioning of the eyes is the same.

Pull the two tails through the same stitch at the back of the head (neck area). We will use those later to sew the neck to the shell so the turtle will stay up straight.

LEGS x 4

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 6 sc

Fold the leg and crochet through the front and back stitch closing the leg (see picture). You should have 3 stitches left.

Fasten off.

Pull the yarn tails through the same stitch. Make a knot and cut the excess ends. Stuff the rest inside the legs.

PART 3: Assembly

We will start by sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell of the turtle.

Use the tail from the bottom shell you left earlier.

Refer to the diagram below when sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell.

When sewing the pieces together, the RS of the bottom shell should be turned towards you.

Refer to the pictures below.

………………RIGHT SIDE (RS)…………………………………….WRONG SIDE (WS)…………..

Sew in the FLO. The BLO will be used to sew the bottom and top shells together.

To sew the legs and head to the bottom shell, we will use the long tail we left after finishing the bottom shell. When you are not sewing body parts, sew through the stitches of the bottom shell to carry the thread. See pictures below.

Start by sewing one of the legs. You will need to sew the three stitches of the leg to only two BLO stitches of the bottom shell.

BLO stitches are left empty (see picture below). We will use them later to sew the bottom and top shells together.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the head. You will be attaching 4 or 5 stitches of the front of the head (neck area) to only 3 stitches of the shell. Make sure the head is centered. Refer to the diagram on Page 6 and to the pictures below.

NOTE: The back four stitches of the head (neck area) will be attached to the top shell later.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the second leg the same way you did the first.

Sew around for 4 stitches to carry the thread and attach the third leg.

Sew around for five stitches to carry the thread and sew the last leg.

Weave in the ends.

Sew the top and bottom shells together using the empty loops you left earlier.

Stuff the shell well before finishing.

NOTE: If you are making your turtle with yarn, make sure you are not over stuffing. If you over stuff the body, the turtle’s belly (bottom shell) will not stay flat and the turtle will not be able to stand straight on its own.

Sew the neck to the shell.

Use water to straighten the details you made earlier for the top shell.

And voila! You have made a tiny turtle!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know in the comments below.

HAPPY CROCHET!

Toadstool Ring Holder (Crochet Pattern)

Toadstools are the cutest! So when I was asked by a customer to make a larger toadstool container, I couldn’t say “no.” But don’t be deceived by the word “larger.” This adorable container is still very small with a diameter of 2 inches and a height – about 2.5 inches.

Materials:

  1. Thread – Lizbeth 10: white and red
  2. Crochet hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Scissors

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

inc – increase

dec – decrease (use invisible decrease)

Pattern:

Start with the base or the container. Use Lizbeth 10 white thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Keep your stitches tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts

Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts

Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts

Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts

Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts

Rounds 11 – 23: sc around – 80 sts

Do not chain 1 after Round 23.

Round 24: sl st around – 80 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

We will make the top of the toadstool with red thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Keep your stitches tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts

Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 48 sts

Round 9: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts

Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts

Round 11: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts

Rounds 12 – 15: sc around – 72 sts

Round 16: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts

Round 17: (9 sc, inc) x 8 – 88 sts

Round 18: (10 sc, inc) x 8 – 96 sts

Rounds 19 – 24: sc around – 96 sts

Round 25: (10 sc, dec) x 8 – 88 sts

Round 26: (9 sc, dec) x 8 – 80 sts

Do not chain 1 after Round 26.

Round 27: sl st around – 80 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Once you finish both parts, you can create the spots of the toadstool either by cross stitching them or by sewing hashtags. See my miniature toadstool container pattern for an example: MINIATURE TOADSTOOL.

I chose to cross stitch the spots. I made a few different sizes. See picture below.

Your container is complete! You can use it to store small items such as safety pins, paper clips, stitch markers, buttons, etc. Or you can use it as a doll house for a small doll.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!

Happy Crochet!

Igloo and Christmas Tree

If you have been following me for a while, you know that I love making houses for my dolls. So, even before I made the polar bear (see my last post), I knew I was going to make an igloo for him. And since tomorrow it’s Christmas, I also had to make a Christmas tree. I hope you like this set and enjoy making it!

And if you have missed my last post, click HERE to see the pattern for the polar bear.

Materials:

  1. Super chunky yarn – white
  2. Worsted weigh yarn – light blue, green, brown
  3. Crochet hooks: 6 mm (Clover Amour) for igloo and 4 mm (Clover Amour) for the Christmas tree
  4. Large piece of cardboard (optional)
  5. Sewing needle
  6. Hot glue gun (optional)
  7. Stuffing

Abbreviations:

  1. Mr – magic ring
  2. Ch – chain
  3. Sl st – slip stitch
  4. Sc – single crochet
  5. Hdc – half double crochet
  6. Inc – increase
  7. Dec – decrease
  8. FLO – front loop only
  9. BLO – back look only

Pattern

Base Pattern:

We will start by creating the base. Use white yarn.

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Crochet Round 6 in the BLO.

Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 2; (4 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 48 sts

Continue crocheting in both loops.

Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 2; (5 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 56 sts

Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 2; (6 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 64 sts

Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 2; (7 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 72 sts

Round 10: 72 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: You can make a second base, put a cardboard piece between the two, and sew the two together. That way your base will be sturdier. I left mine without a bottom base for now.

Basket Pattern:

After finishing the base, we will create the inside of the igloo.

Continue with white yarn.

For Round 1, crochet in the FLO stitches of Round 5.

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Rounds 1 – 3: 40 sc

Round 4: 40 sl st

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Igloo Pattern:

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: 32 sc

Round 6: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 7: (9 sc, inc) x 4 – 44 sts

Note: If you want a tighter fit, do not make Round 7 increases but continue with 40 stitches in each round. I wanted a looser fit so my daughter can open and close the container easily.

Rounds 8 – 10: 44 sc

Note: We will now start crocheting in rows to create an opening for the igloo. We will continue the count from where we stopped with the rounds.

Row 11: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn

Row 12: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn

Row 13: 39 sc; turn

Row 14: 39 sl st

Igloo Opening:

Row 1: When you get to the opening, make 3 sc going up; then 6 sc (in the 5 sts you left empty and 1 extra from where you were joining rounds earlier); and make another 3 sc going down the opening. See pictures below.

Once you make the 3rd sc going down chain 1 and turn. You should have 12 sts for the opening of the igloo.

Row 2: 12 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: To make the igloo more detailed, you can sew blue lines using the back stitch. I started on Round 4 of the igloo and went all around. Then I did the same for Rounds 8 and 12. I also used the back stitch to sew around the opening of the igloo. Then every few stitches I sewed down starting from the very top. You can make the “ice bricks” of the igloo as big or small as you wish.

Christmas Tree Pattern:

Start with green yarn and 4 mm crochet hook. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts

Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts

Round 4: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 5

Round 4: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 3. (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts

Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 6: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 7

Round 6: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 5. (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts

Round 8: in FLO (2 hdc, inc) x 8

Round 8: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 7. (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts

Round 9: (4 sc, dec) x 3 – 15 sts

Round 10: (3 sc, dec) x 3 – 12 sts

Stuff the Christmas tree well. Change color to brown.

Rounds 11 – 12: 12 sc

Finish stuffing the tree and the tree trunk.

Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

You can use festive buttons and beads to decorate your tiny Christmas tree.

Amigurumi Polar Bear

It’s almost Christmas and I wanted to create a tiny design that anyone can make. This little polar bear is super special. He is tiny and adorable and comes with his very own… Hmm… I think I will keep that a secret until next week. 

NOTE: This pattern is designed by Diana Moore from PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE. This pattern is available for free only on my blog pinkmouseboutique.com. If you see the pattern and pictures posted on another website, please let me know. Thank you!

MATERIALS:

  1. Worsted weight yarn:
    1. white – for the bear 
    2. red – scarf
    3. black – eyes and nose
  2. Clover Amour crochet hook, 3.25 mm
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Stuffing
  5. Glue gun
  6. Snowflake button (optional)

ABBREVIATIONS:

mr – magic ring                                              dec – decrease

ch – chain                                                         inc – increase

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

NOTES:

  1. Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
  2. Use the invisible decrease technique when decreasing. 

PATTERN:

We will begin by making the head, body, and legs (in one piece).

Start with white yarn.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: 24 sc

Round 8: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Round 9: (sc inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 10 – 13: 24 sts

Stuff the head and body well.

The legs will be made with 9 sts on each side of the body. The 6 sts (3 in the front and 3 in the back will be sewn later).

Leg 1:

Continue from where you stopped with the body.

Round 1: 8 sc, sk 15 sts, 1 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 9 sc

Leave a long tail and fasten off.

Leg 2:

Leave 6 sts in the middle for sewing (3 in the back and 3 in the front of the body). Join yarn to one of the 9 sts you left for the 2nd leg. Continue following the instructions for the first leg. 

Once you finish both legs, stuff them well, finish them off and secure the stitches.

Face:

Sew the eyes on Round 5, 5 stitches apart.

Sew the nose in the middle 3 stitches between the eyes. Then sew one long line starting from the middle of the nose and going down 2 rounds.

Arms (x 2):

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 5 sc in the ring – 5 sts

Rounds 2 – 5: 5 sc around

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Ears (x 2):

mr, ch 1, 5 hdc in the ring

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Tail:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 sc

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Scarf:

Use red yarn or any color of your choice.

Ch 66

Fasten off.

Assembly:

Sew the arms on Round 8 (or 9) of the body. Sew the tail in the back a round above the legs. Sew the ears on top of the head (a round below the magic ring). Using a cotton swab and blush, make pink cheeks. NOTE: Cover the body with a piece of fabric so the blush doesn’t stain it.

Fold the scarf in half and find the middle. With the glue gun, glue the middle of the scarf to the front of the bear (Round 9).

You will wrap it around a few times while gluing in a few places to make sure the scarf will stay in place. Note: Add only a little bit of glue at a time so it doesn’t look messy. Tuck both ends under the scarf and glue to secure.

Optional: Sew a small snowflake to the scarf (a little to one side).

And voila! You have made an adorable little polar bear! Now you can also add a ribbon to its head and make it an ornament. 🙂

Stay tuned! In a few days, this little guy will show you something special!

HAPPY CROCHET!

Boîte Champignon Miniature (Modèle au Crochet)

Ce modèle a été traduit en Français par Sylvie Conil.

Alors, l’autre jour j’ai fait un mignon petit elfe (qui fais seulement 2cm de haut) puis après, j’ai pensé que je devais à présent lui faire une petite maison rien qu’à lui. J’avais imaginé faire, depuis longtemps, une petite maison champignon pour une poupée et là c’était l’occasion idéale. Une minuscule petite maison parfaite pour mon micro elfe (base sur mon modèle intitulé “ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN’’). Mais bien sûr vous pouvez aussi vous en servir de coffre à bijoux, y mettre une bague, des petits boutons, ou encore une paire de boucle d’oreilles, des perles, etc… Ou juste vous en servir comme décoration sur votre bureau. Trop fun!

En tous cas, si vous décidez de faire le micro elfe base sur mon modèle “one inch doll pattern’’, utilisez le fil Lizbeth 80, avec un crochet 0.75 mm de la marque Clover Amour. Vous trouverez en note après les explications de la maison champignon, toutes les infos pour réaliser ce mignon petit elfe.

Matériel :

  1. Fil Lizbeth 20 : rouge et blanc
  2. Crochet taille 10 dans la marque « Boye », c’est-à-dire, un crochet en 1,3 mm
  3. Aiguille à coudre
  4. Ciseaux

Abréviations:

CM – cercle magique

ms – maille serrée

mc – maille coulée

aug – augmenter

dim – diminuer

Explications :

Bas

Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en blanc. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.

Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms dans le cercle – 8 m

Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m

Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m

Rang 4 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m

Rang 5 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m

Rangs 6 – 11 : 40 ms

Après le Rang 11 joignez par 1mc (qui comptera comme la 1ère m du rang suivant) mais ne faîtes pas de ml.

Rang 12 : 39 mc

Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.

Dessus

Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en rouge. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc, puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.

Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms – 8 m

Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m

Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m

Rangs 4 – 5 : 24 ms

Rang 6 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m

Rang 7 : 32 ms

Rang 8 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m

Rang 9 : (4 ms, aug) x 8 – 48 m

Rang 10 : (5 ms, aug) x 8 – 56 m

Rangs 11 – 14 : 56 ms

Rang 15 : (5 ms, dim) x 8 – 48 m

Après le Rang 15, joignez avec 1 mc (qui comptera comme la 1ère m du rang suivant) mais pas de ml.

Rang 16 : 47 ms

Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.

Optionnel : brodez des petits “hashtags” sur le dessus du champignon avec du fil blanc DMC coton perle 12. Après chaque hashtag, coupez le fil et faîtes un nœud. Coupez l’excédent de fil et ajoutez un point de colle pour le fixer de façon plus propre. Vous pouvez aussi rentrer les fils pour les cacher (mais c’est trop de travail pour moi ici ;)).

Et Voila! Vous avez terminé la petite maison champignon.

MICRO ELFE (quelques astuces utiles) :

  1. J’utilise une loupe pour voir les points de façon plus nette. Ils sont vraiment minuscules ! De Plus, utiliser la loupe vous permettra de faire des points plus serrés et consistants.
  2. Utilisez un petit bâton (style cure-dent, baguette) pour rembourrer la poupée avec la fibre polyester. C’est plus facile ainsi pour les mini poupées.
  3. S’il vous est difficile d’utiliser le fil Lizbeth 80, essayer le Lizbeth 40 (DMC coton perle 12) avec un crochet en 0.9 mm ou encore le Lizbeth 20 avec un crochet 1.25 mm. Mais alors, utilisez plutôt pour faire la maison, le fil Aunt Lydia’s 10 avec un crochet 1.5 mm ou le Lizbeth 10 (avec le même crochet).

 

Chapeau de l’Elfe :

Utilisez le même type de fil et de crochet que pour la poupée (modèle ICI). Joignez chaque rang avec 1 mc et 2 ml.

 

Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 2ml, 6 demi-br dans le cercle – 6 m

Rang 2 : (2 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 8 m

Rang 3 : (3 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 10 m

Rang 4 : (4 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 12 m

Rang 5 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 14 m

Rang 6 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 16 m

Rang 7 : (7 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 18 m

Rang 8 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 21 m

Rang 9 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 24 m

Rangs 10 – 11 : 24 demi-br

Ajoutez un Rang supplémentaire de 24 demi-br si le chapeau vous semble trop petit. Enfilez le chapeau à votre lutin, ajustez le pour qu’il soit à la place désirée. Puis faîtes un rang de mc en le laissant sur la tête de la poupée (les mc sont seulement sur le tour du chapeau, pas sur la tête de la poupée). Le rand de mc resserrera assez le chapeau pour le maintenir en place afin qu’il ne tombe pas de la tête de votre lutin. Une fois le rang terminé, arrêter le travail et cousez le chapeau sur la tête de la poupée en quelques points (pour éviter qu’il ne tombe sur les yeux). Rentrez les fils.

A présent votre petit elfe est prêt pour rentrer dans sa petite maison!

Crochetez bien!

Miniature Toadstool Container (Crochet Pattern)

 

So, the other day I made this cute little elf (only about 7/8 of an inch) and then I thought that I should make a house for it. I have been wanting to make a mushroom house for a doll for a long time now and this seemed like the perfect opportunity. The teeny little house is perfect for the micro elf (based on my ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN). But you can also put a ring, some small buttons, maybe small earrings, beads, etc. Or just use it as a cute decor on your desk. How fun!

IMG_0325-001

By the way, if you decide to make the micro elf based on my one inch doll pattern, use Lizbeth 80 thread with 0.75 mm Clover Amour hook. See notes after the toadstool house pattern for more info on how to make the cute elf.

Materials:

  1. Lizbeth 20: red and white
  2. Crochet hook, size 10 (Boye)
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Scissors

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

inc – increase

dec – decrease

Pattern:

Bottom

Start with Lizbeth 20, white thread. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Rounds 6 – 11: 40 sc

After Round 11 join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.

Round 12: 39 sl st

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Top

Start with Lizbeth 20, red. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 5: 24 sc

Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 7: 32 sc

Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 9: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts

Round 10: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts

Rounds 11 – 14: 56 sc

Round 15: (5 sc, dec) x 8 – 48 sts

After Round 15, join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.

Round 16: 47 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: Sew hashtags to the top part of the mushroom with DMC cotton perle 12 thread. After each hashtag, cut the thread and make a knot. Cut excess thread and glue down the ends for a more cleaner look. You may also weave in the ends (but that seems like too much work to me 😉 ).

IMG_0353

And voila! You made a cute little mushroom container.

MICRO ELF (some helpful tips):

  1. I used a magnifying glass to help me see the stitches better. They are tiny! Plus, looking through the magnifying glass will help you have tighter and more consistent stitches.
  2. Use polyester batting to stuff the doll. It is much easier to stuff that micro doll with the batting.
  3. If you are having a hard time using Lizbeth 80 thread, try Lizbeth 40 (DMC cotton perle 12) with 0.9 mm hook or maybe even Lizbeth 20 with 1.25 mm hook. Then just make the house with Aunt Lydia’s 10 and 1.5 mm hook or Lizbeth 10 (same hook).

Elf Hat:

Use the same type and hook you did to make the doll (pattern HERE). Join each round with a sl st and ch 2.

Round 1: mr, ch 2, 6 hdc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: (2 hdc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts

Round 3: (3 hdc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts

Round 4: (4 hdc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts

Round 5: (5 hdc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 6: (6 hdc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts

Round 7: (7 hdc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts

Round 8: (5 hdc, inc) x 3 – 21 sts

Round 9: (6 hdc, inc) x 3 – 24 sts

Rounds 10 – 11: 24 hdc

Add one more round of 24 hdc if the hat seems too small. Put the hat on the doll and adjust it to where you would like it to stay. Slip stitch around while the hat is on the doll (sl st only the hat, not the head of the doll). The slip stitch round will make the hat tight enough so it will not fall off the head of the doll. Once you finish that round, fasten off and sew the hat to the head in a few places (to make sure it does not fall over the eyes of the doll). Weave in the ends.

Now your elf is ready for her teeny house!

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Happy Crochet!

 

 

Amigurumi Travel Toy (Crochet Outfit)

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I knew I wanted to make some sort of a necklace house and a doll that would go inside. It took a while to start working on that project and when I did eventually start working on it, it took a few weeks to figure out the house design. I almost gave up. I am glad I didn’t because this new pattern is one of my favorites.

And to celebrate the release of the Tiny People in a Tiny House pattern (and the fact that it was published in the HHM printed issue), I created an extra outfit. I wanted it to be simple but to have more texture. So, I played around with the hdc stitch. Fun!

This outfit is specifically design for my newest dolls (see picture below).

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You can find the pattern in my three stores:

CRAFTSY

RAVELRY

ETSY

 

Materials:

  1. Lizbeth size 40 thread (color of your choice)
  2. Clover Amour, 0.9 mm hook
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Scissors

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

hdc – half double crochet

sc – single crochet

st – stitch

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

FO – fasten off

Note: I have designed this dress to be permanently sewn to the doll. If you would like it to be removable, crochet in rows until you finished Round 2 (where you will have 32 sts). After that Round (but you will be working it in rows), you can start joining rounds. This should leave you enough opening in the back to be able to put on and take off the outfit. But always measure on your doll to make sure the outfit fits just right.

Pattern:

HAT

Chain 17

Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook; 14 hdc; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts

Rows 2 – 21: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts

Row 22: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 1 and turn

Put the 1st and last row together and sc them together.

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Leave a long tail for sewing and FO.

Insert needle through each row at the edge of the hat.

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Pull tight to close the hole. Weave in the ends.

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DRESS

ch 23

Row 1: 4 sc, ch 1, sk 4 (one armhole created), 6 sc, ch 1, sk 4 (2nd armhole created), 4 sc – 16 sts

Put the dress on the doll. Turn the doll upside down and join the 1st with the last st with a sl st. Chain 1

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The dress should fit tight on the doll.

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We will now crochet in the round.

Round 1: (sc, inc) x 8; sl st to join and ch 2 – 24 sts

Round 2: in BLO (2 hdc, hdc inc) x 8; sl st to join; ch 2 and turn – 32 sts

Round 3: in FLO 32 hdc; sl st to join; ch 2 and turn – 32 sts

Round 4: in BLO 32 hdc; sl st to join; ch 2 and turn – 32 sts

Round 5: in FLO 32 hdc; sl st to join; ch 2 and turn – 32 sts

Round 6: in BLO 32 hdc; sl st to join; ch 2 and turn – 32 sts

Round 7: in FLO 32 hdc; sl st to join; ch 2 and turn – 32 sts

Round 8: in BLO 32 hdc; sl st to join – 32 sts

Weave in the ends.

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And voila! You have made a sweet little outfit for your doll.

I hope you liked it. Let me know what you think in the comments.

Happy Crochet!