Unicorn Zombie (Free Version)

The idea to create a Unicorn Zombie was given to me by one of my followers on Instagram last year. It took me a while, but finally I was able to make this cute little guy. And I am so happy with the final look! The bone is a challenge though. πŸ™‚

This version of the pattern is FREE. You can also find a PREMIUM version that includes a drawing of the unicorn that you can use to create fun Halloween cards. The premium version is a PDF file that you can conveniently download and print.

Link to the premium version: UNICORN ZOMBIE

I hope you like the pattern. Let me know in the comments below!

MATERIALS

  1. Curio, size 10 (you can find it here: KnitPicks)
    • Clarity (light blue)
    • Heliotrope
    • Black
    • Conch
  2. DMC floss:
    • Metallic, gold
    • Black
    • White
  3. Hooks, Clover Amour (1.5 mm and 1 mm)
  4. Stuffing
  5. Hard Pastels (I used Prismacolor)
  6. Small brush or a cotton swab

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring                                                                

Ch – chain                                                                           

St(es) – stitch(es)                                                               

Sl st – slip stitch                                                                 

Sc – single crochet                                                             

Hdc – half double crochet                                                

Dc – double crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – Decrease (invisible decrease)

BLO/FLO – Back loop only/Front loop only

Sk – skip

HEAD

Round 1: with Clarity 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)

Round 8: 4 sc, 4 inc, 8 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc – 32 sts

Round 9: sc around – 32 sts

Change color – Heliotrope

Rounds 10 – 11: sc around – 32 sts (2 rounds)

Round 12: sc in 30 sts, ch 4 and sk 4 (we are moving the beginning of the round) – 32 sts

Round 13: 2 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc, in BLO of chain 4 sc – 24 sts

Round 14: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Start stuffing the head.

Round 15: 8 dec – 8 sts

Round 16: 2 dec – 6 sts

We will end Round 16 there. Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.

BODY

Turn the head upside down with the back of the head facing you.

You will notice that there are 2 sets of unworked stitches – 4 that are closest to you (this is where the back of the body will be once you make it) and 4 are further away from you (where the front of the body will be once you make it). Insert the hook in the 2nd to last st beginning with the back (closest to you) and with a sc join Clarity.

Round 1: sc again in same st where you joined thread and inc in next st

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the front; do not grab the last st from the back)

Inc in next 3 sts

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the back; do not grab the last st from the front)

Inc in last st

After you finish Round 1, you should have 16 sts.

Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts

Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)

Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts

Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 28 sts (2 rounds)

Round 9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 – 24 sts

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the body well. Leave 8 stitches on each side of the body for legs. Mark the middle 8 stitches (4 at the front and 4 at the back) with thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs are aligned with the head.

LEGS (x 2)

Turn the body upside down (back side facing you) and with a sc join Clarity thread in one of the stitches you left for the 1st leg.

Round 1: sc in each st until you get to the thread marking the middle sts. Insert hook in same st as last sc and in the st at the other side of the body. 1 sc ; sc until the end of round – 8 sts

Round 2: sc around – 8 sts

Stuff well.

Round 3: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off.

Repeat for the second leg.

Once finished, sew the middle 8 stitches to close.

Secure the stitches.

ARM

Crochet in spiral.

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

BONE

Crochet tight.

Because I used thread, I didn’t need to stuff the bone. If you are using yarn, you may need to stuff a little.

Suggested color – DMC cotton perle 12 with a 1 mm hook (NOTE: I used yarn for the step-by-step pictures)

Ch 4

Round 1: 1 puff stitch in 2nd ch from hook (Please follow the steps below and refer to the pictures)

YO and insert hook through 2nd chain from hook, YO and pull (three loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (two loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (four loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (five loops on hook)

YO and pull through all loops (puff stitch created)

1 sc in next chain

2 puff stitches in last ch

Now we will crochet on the other side of the chain

1 sc in next ch

1 puff stitch in last ch

At the end of Round 1, you should have 6 stitches.

Rounds 2 – 7 : sc around – 6 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 1 puff stitch, 1 sc, 2 puff stitches, 1 sc, 1 puff stitch – 6 sts

NOTE: Make sure the two ends are aligned.

Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches. Leave one of the tails for sewing later.

EAR 1

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (hdc, dc, hdc) in third st, inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 9 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EAR 2

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (1 hdc, ch 2 and sl st in 3rd st), inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 8 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EYE

Suggested color: DMC cotton perle 12, black with a 1 mm hook

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 2: (1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 2; sl st to join – 10 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Use DMC cotton perle 12, color white thread to sew a few times in a stitch in the eye to make a large sparkle. Then sew a couple of times in another st to make a second sparkle (a bit smaller than the first one).

HORN

Suggested color – DMC metallic thread (2 or 3 strands)

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 2: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 3: in BLO (2 sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 5: in BLO (sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

TAIL (x 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 6

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 5 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

MANE (5 or 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 15

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 14 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

Sew the eye to the head, right above the muzzle. I sewed the eye on the left part of the face.

Using Curio size 10, black thread and a needle, sew a line going up 4 rounds at an angle on the right side of the head. The bottom of the line should be 7 stitches from the eye and the top – about 4 or 5 stitches from the top of the eye. Once the line is sewn (I sewed twice to make it thicker), sew 3 smaller lines crossing the longer one. Secure the thread.

Sew the horn 4 rounds above the eyes.

Sew the ears about 2 stitches behind the horn, about 3 stitches apart.

Sew the arm one round below the head and the bone – two rounds below the head making sure both align with the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the tail at the back of the body, one or two rounds above the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the mane at the back of the head, between the ears.

With black thread, sew a line going down the arm about four rounds. Then sew two smaller lines crossing the longer one.

With the Conch color (also light or salmon pink), cross stitch in 5 stitches below the right ear (about 2 rounds above the eye).

Using a small brush or cotton swab, apply your choice of color of the hard pastel around the scarred eye and arm patch. I also applied some on the broken ear, the bottom of the legs, and a little around the left eye (the round one).

HAPPY CROCHET!!!

Baby Animals (Crochet Pattern)

Baby Panda and Baby Bear were a special request from my daughter.

Because they are only 1.5 inches tall (in sitting position), they fit perfectly in her dollhouse and she loves playing with them over and over and over.

The pattern is a quick and easy one to make. I used Copper for Baby Bear and White and Black for Baby Panda, but Curio has so many beautiful colors that you can make a whole collection of colorful baby bears. If you sew the eyes with Curio Black thread instead of using plastic eyes, these bears made in all of Curio colors can be used to teach little ones colors and counting and sorting and make math more fun!

You can download the PDF file here for free: BABY ANIMALS

MATERIALS:

  1. Thread – Curio size 10 (various colors)
    1. Natural – face and hands
    1. Copper – bear costume
    1. Black and White – panda costume
    1. Pistachio/Tea Rose – binky
  2. Plastic eyes – 2 mm
  3. Hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
  4. Stuffing
  5. Tacky glue
  6. Cotton swab and blush

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring                                                  Inc – increase

Ch – chain                                                             Dec – decrease

St(es) – stitch(es)                                                  Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitchΒ Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β Β  Hdc – half double crochet

HEAD

Join rounds with a slip st and chain 1.

Round 1: with ecru 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Rounds 5 – 10: sc around – 24 sts (6 rounds)

Round 11: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 12: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Stuff the head.

Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts

BODY

Change color depending on animal costume. Continue crocheting in spiral.

If you are making a baby panda, use black thread for Rounds 14 – 17. Then change color to white to finish the body.

Rounds 14: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 15: (2 sc, inc) x 4 – 16 sts

Rounds 16 – 17: sc around – 16 sts (2 rounds)

Round 18: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts

Round 19: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts

Rounds 20 – 23: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)

Round 24: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 25: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Stuff the body.

Round 26: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off and secure the stitches. Set aside.

ARMS (x 2):

Round 1: with ecru 5 sc in a mr – 5 sts

Round 2: (inc, sc) x 2, inc in last st – 8 sts

Round 3: sc around – 8 sts

Change color depending on animal costume.

Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x 2 – 6 sts

Rounds 5 – 9: sc around

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

LEGS (x 2):

Use the color for animal costume.

Round 1: (2 sc, 3 hdc, 2 sc) in a mr – 7 sts

Round 2: sc inc in 2 sts, hdc inc in 3 sts, sc inc in 2 sts – 14 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: 14 sts (3 rounds)

Round 6: 1 sc in 3 sts, 4 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 10 sts

Stuff the foot.

Round 7: 1 sc in 3 sts, 2 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 8 sts

Rounds 8 – 10: sc around – 8 sts (3 rounds)

Stuff the leg lightly.

Round 11: 4 dec – 4 sts

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

EARS (x 2):

Use the color for animal costume.

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: sc around – 12 sts (3 rounds)

Round 6: sl st around – 12 sts

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

TAIL:

Use the color for animal costume.

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 12 sts (2 rounds)

Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

HAT:

With animal color

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts

Rounds 6 – 10: sc around – 30 sts (5 rounds)

Round 11: 1 sl st in next 2 sts

BINKY:

Leave a long tail before you begin.

Round 1: with pistachio 8 sc in a mr

Sl st to join and fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:

Glue the eyes between Rounds 8 and 9, about 5 stitches apart.

Use the eyes as a guide when sewing the legs and arms.

The legs are sewn between Rounds 22 and 23. Turn the doll to one side. The very back of the leg should be about 6 stitches away from the eye (the foot would be closer to the animal’s tummy that way). Sew several times and in several places so the leg is securely attached to the body. Then repeat with the other leg.

Sew the arms on Rounds 15 and 16. Turn the body to one side (just like we did with the legs). The back end of the arm should be about 4 stitches away from the eye. I sewed the back of the arms to the body and then I sewed the β€œhands” to the belly, so they stay snugged.

Position the hat so it’s about 4 rounds above the eyes and sew it to the head.

Using the whip stitch, sew the ears on Rounds 2 through 5 of the hat. Once you finish, wet the ears and press the middle with the back of a metal hook. This will give the ears a nice shape.

Sew the tail at the back of the bear, between the legs. Before finishing, insert a little stuffing.

Before attaching the binky to the face, insert the mr tail through the mr.

Insert the needle through a front loop on any stitch on the right side of the piece. Refer to the picture on the right.

Before pulling the needle all the way through the stitch, wrap the thread around it 10 times. Carefully pull the needle through the thread and the stitch. Then insert the needle back through the mr and pull.

Attach the binky to the face, a round below the eyes. I used tacky glue in addition to sewing it to the face.

Use a cotton swab and blush to add a little pink to the cheeks.

HAPPY CROCHETING!!!

Amigurumi Holidays – St. Patrick’s Day, Easter, and Christmas

Last week, I had a CAL on Facebook and Instagram and I loved seeing everyone’s wips as they followed along and made these cute little dolls – a leprechaun, a bunny, and a Santa.

Now that the CAL has ended, I thought it will be much more convenient to have the pattern in one place and not spread out in several different social media posts. So, I have put together a PDF file with detailed instructions and many step by step pictures. Just click on the link below to access the file.

AMIGURUMI HOLIDAYS – ENGLISH

AMIGURUMI HOLIDAYS – RUSSIAN

AMIGURUMI HOLIDAYS – SPANISH

Note, this pattern is ONLY available through my blog. If you see it anywhere else, please notify me.

HAPPY CROCHETING!

Sweet Strawberry

These tiny strawberries are very quick to make. You need under an hour to finish one (I am slow at crochet; some of you might need less than 30 minutes). But they are super cute! I am planning on making at least 10 and putting them in a small favor jar (the one in the picture is 3.4 oz).

Materials:

  1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread – red, green, and white
  2. Clover Amour crochet hook, 1.5 mm
  3. Stuffing
  4. Sewing needle
  5. Hot glue gun (or tacky glue if you prefer)

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

st – stitch

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

trbl – treble crochet

inc – increase

dec – decrease (invisible)

Strawberry Pattern:

Crochet in spiral.

Round 1: with red 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Rounds 4 – 5: sc around – 18 sts

Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 7: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts

Rounds 8 – 10: sc around – 30 sts

Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Start stuffing the strawberry. You will need to stuff more before finishing the last round.

Round 13: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Round 14: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off and finish off. Insert the beginning and end tail through the same stitch, tie a knot, and stuff the ends inside the strawberry.

Leaves Pattern:

Round 1: with green, 10 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 10 sts

Round 2: *in same stitch (1 hdc, 1 trbl, ch 1, and 1 hdc), sl st in next* repeat 5 times

Fasten off and tie a knot securing the beginning and end tail. Set aside.

Stem Pattern:

With green, ch 6

1 sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st in back bump of each ch – 5 sts

Fasten off.

Insert the ends of the stem through the mr hole of the leaves. Tie knots with the ends of the leaves and the stem and cut excess thread.

Glue to the top of the strawberry. Do not glue down the tips of the leaves.

OPTIONAL: Use white to sew small Vs around the strawberry.

And your tiny strawberry is finished! Now make a whole bunch more! These are FUN.

Let me know what you think in the comments.

Happy Crocheting!

Mr. Chatters’ Acorn House

I thought little Mr. Chatters needed a house so I made him one.

This is a super quick and easy project. I am even thinking of making several to create a village. Wouldn’t that be fun?!

Note, this house will fit a squirrel made with Oren Bayan cotton perle 12 (or Lizbeth 40) and a 1 mm hook.

Materials:

1. Lizbeth 10 thread: light brown

2. Crochet hook, 1.5 mm

3. Oren Bayan cotton perle 12 (or Lizbeth 40): green and dark brown

4. Crochet hook, 1 mm

5. Acorn top (have several handy to pick the one that will fit your house)

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

st – stitch

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

House:

With Lizbeth 10 light brown thread and a 1.5 mm hook

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc; sl st to join and ch 1
Round 2: 8 inc; sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8; sl st to join and ch 1 – 24 sts

Turn your work. We will leave the wrong side at the bottom and the right side will be on the inside of the house.

Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 24 sts
Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x 8; sl st to join and ch 1 – 32 sts
Rounds 6 – 10: sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 32 sts
Round 11: sl st around
Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Door:

With Oren Bayan 12 green and a 1 mm hook
Ch 4
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next; 4 sc in last ch; on opposite side of chain 1 sc in last 2 chains; ch 1 and turn
Row 2: 1 sc in 2 sts; 4 inc; 1 sc in last 2 sts

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off. Sew to house.

Cross stitch two windows with dark brown Oren Bayan thread on either side of the door, about 2 stitches apart in the following pattern

XX
XX

Pick an acorn top that fits for the roof of the house.

And your wee little acorn house is finished!

Make several and create a village! Make some taller, some shorter, some wider, some thinner! Use your imagination!

Happy Crochet!

Little Red Wagon

A while ago I had this idea to create an autumn elf pattern. Once I made the doll, however, I started adding to it – a dress, a shrug, a hat, hair… Then came the wagon. Of course, the little doll needed a wagon. How else would she gather acorns and leaves?

The entire pattern set which also includes an adorable squirrel friend (Mr. Chatters) will be available in my shops tomorrow.

But today, I wanted to share with you the pattern of the little red wagon. I hope you like it.

MATERIALS:

Thread: red, black, and dark brown (very small piece of the the handle of the wagon

I used Oren Bayan cotton perle 12 but you can use any size thread or yarn that you like. The size should be the same size that you used to make the doll. A good substitute for Oren Bayan thread is Lizbeth 40.

Crochet hook – 1 mm

A piece of plastic or cardboard

Hot glue gun

Wire (optional)

Sewing needle

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring

Sc – single crochet

Ch – chain

BLO – back loop only

Hdc – half double crochet

Inc – increase

Sl st – slip stitch

Wheels (x 8):

Round 1: with black thread, mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring;

sl st to join and ch 2 – 8 sts

Round 2: in the BLO 2 hdc in each st; sl st to join – 16 sts

Fasten off.

With the right side out, sew the wheels two by two to make them thicker.

Weave in the ends and set aside.

Wagon:

With the red thread, make two bottom pieces. When you finish the first one, fasten off and weave in the ends. Then begin the second piece.

Ch 19

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until end of row; ch 1 and turn – 18 sts

Rows 2 – 11: 1 sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 18 sts

Row 12: 1 sc until the end of row – 18 sts

Finish off the first piece.

Make the second piece but do not fasten off.

Trace the piece on a piece of plastic or cardboard and cut out the piece. Trim so it will fit between the two crocheted pieces of the wagon we just made.

Put the two crocheted pieces together. Chain 1 without turning. Continue crocheting going down on the side. 1 sc in each space. When you get to the corner, ch 1 and continue crocheting along the bottom of both pieces.

When you get to the next corner, ch 1 again and go up the side of the two pieces.

When you get to the corner (you will have 3 of the sides crocheted together), insert the plastic piece inside.

Ch 1 and continue crocheting in each stitch to close.

When you get to the last corner, sl st to join the round and ch 1.

That’s the end of Round 1. In this round, you should have 64 stitches (this includes the 4 chains you made at each corner of the bottom of the wagon.

Round 2: in BLO 1 sc in each stitch and chain; sl st to join and ch 1 – 64 sts

Rounds 2 – 4: in both loops 1 sc in each stitch; sl st to join and ch 1 – 64 sts

Round 5: 1 sc in each stitch; sl st to join – 64 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

In the 5 middle front loops of the wagon (either one of the shorter sides), we will create a little part to which a piece of thread will be attached to pull the wagon. Insert the hook in one of the loops and 1 sc.

1 sc in the next 4 loops; ch 1 and turn

With a sewing needle, insert the tail through the front loop (here you made the 1st sc of the first row). Secure the stitches.

Insert thread through the brown part and tie a knot. Tie the other end too to create a loop so the doll can β€œhold” the end of the wagon’s handle.

Then with the glue gun, glue the wheels to the sides of the wagon.

And voila! The little red wagon is finished!

Little Miss Turtle (Free Crochet Pattern)

I made a promise a long time ago to someone that I will write up the pattern of this turtle and post it for free on my blog. That was years ago. Recently I discovered that I had lost the pattern for the original turtle that I made at least 4 years ago. So, I decided to not waste any more time and create a new one and this time write the pattern, take the pictures, and post it. And here we are! I hope you enjoy it.

COPYRIGHT: This pattern is intended for PERSONAL USE only. You may not sell or share the pattern in any form, or distribute it (full or partially), or post it on the Internet, or translate it into other languages.

You may sell the finished products created from this pattern. Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on β€˜PinkMouseBoutique’ pattern and also include a link to my website (www.pinkmouseboutique.com).

The items you sell based on this pattern must feature only your own photographs. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.

To download the PDF follow the link here: LITTLE MISS TURTLE

MATERIALS:

  1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10:
    1. Ecru
    2. Variegated thread
    3. Black (for eyes)
  2. Crochet hook, 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
  3. Stuffing
  4. Plastic eyes (2 mm) – optional
  5. Clear tacky glue (if using 2 mm eye)
  6. Sewing needle

NOTE: For the step by step photos, I used Loops&Threads CAPRI yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring

Sc – single crochet

Ch – chain

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

Trbl – treble crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – decrease

Sl st – slip stitch

RS – right side

PART 1: Shell – Top and Bottom

TOP SHELL

Use variegated thread of your choice.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 5 – 7: 28 sc (3 rounds)

Round 8: in FLO (sk 1, 3 trbl in next, sk 1, sl st in next) repeat until the end of this round

You should have 7 shells at the end of Round 8.

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

BOTTOM SHELL

Use ecru thread.

Follow instructions of top shell until Round 4.

Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts; end the round here

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

PART 2: Head and Legs

HEAD

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: 16 sc (3 rounds)

Round 6: 3 sc, 5 dec, 3 sc – 11 sts

Start stuffing the head. Stuff firmly. You will need

to stuff a little more after Round 7.

Round 7: 4 sc, sc3tog (dec), 4 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 8 – 10: 9 sc (3 rounds)

Fasten off.

EYES: For the little turtle I used 2 mm plastic eyes. After I finished the head, I glued them on Round 4, 7 to 8 stitches apart using tacky glue.

For the yarn turtle, I used black yarn to sew the eyes. The positioning of the eyes is the same.

Pull the two tails through the same stitch at the back of the head (neck area). We will use those later to sew the neck to the shell so the turtle will stay up straight.

LEGS x 4

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 6 sc

Fold the leg and crochet through the front and back stitch closing the leg (see picture). You should have 3 stitches left.

Fasten off.

Pull the yarn tails through the same stitch. Make a knot and cut the excess ends. Stuff the rest inside the legs.

PART 3: Assembly

We will start by sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell of the turtle.

Use the tail from the bottom shell you left earlier.

Refer to the diagram below when sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell.

When sewing the pieces together, the RS of the bottom shell should be turned towards you.

Refer to the pictures below.

………………RIGHT SIDE (RS)…………………………………….WRONG SIDE (WS)…………..

Sew in the FLO. The BLO will be used to sew the bottom and top shells together.

To sew the legs and head to the bottom shell, we will use the long tail we left after finishing the bottom shell. When you are not sewing body parts, sew through the stitches of the bottom shell to carry the thread. See pictures below.

Start by sewing one of the legs. You will need to sew the three stitches of the leg to only two BLO stitches of the bottom shell.

BLO stitches are left empty (see picture below). We will use them later to sew the bottom and top shells together.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the head. You will be attaching 4 or 5 stitches of the front of the head (neck area) to only 3 stitches of the shell. Make sure the head is centered. Refer to the diagram on Page 6 and to the pictures below.

NOTE: The back four stitches of the head (neck area) will be attached to the top shell later.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the second leg the same way you did the first.

Sew around for 4 stitches to carry the thread and attach the third leg.

Sew around for five stitches to carry the thread and sew the last leg.

Weave in the ends.

Sew the top and bottom shells together using the empty loops you left earlier.

Stuff the shell well before finishing.

NOTE: If you are making your turtle with yarn, make sure you are not over stuffing. If you over stuff the body, the turtle’s belly (bottom shell) will not stay flat and the turtle will not be able to stand straight on its own.

Sew the neck to the shell.

Use water to straighten the details you made earlier for the top shell.

And voila! You have made a tiny turtle!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know in the comments below.

HAPPY CROCHET!

Toadstool Ring Holder (Crochet Pattern)

Toadstools are the cutest! So when I was asked by a customer to make a larger toadstool container, I couldn’t say “no.” But don’t be deceived by the word “larger.” This adorable container is still very small with a diameter of 2 inches and a height – about 2.5 inches.

Materials:

  1. Thread – Lizbeth 10: white and red
  2. Crochet hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Scissors

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

inc – increase

dec – decrease (use invisible decrease)

Pattern:

Start with the base or the container. Use Lizbeth 10 white thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Keep your stitches tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts

Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts

Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts

Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts

Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts

Rounds 11 – 23: sc around – 80 sts

Do not chain 1 after Round 23.

Round 24: sl st around – 80 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

We will make the top of the toadstool with red thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Keep your stitches tight.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts

Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 48 sts

Round 9: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts

Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts

Round 11: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts

Rounds 12 – 15: sc around – 72 sts

Round 16: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts

Round 17: (9 sc, inc) x 8 – 88 sts

Round 18: (10 sc, inc) x 8 – 96 sts

Rounds 19 – 24: sc around – 96 sts

Round 25: (10 sc, dec) x 8 – 88 sts

Round 26: (9 sc, dec) x 8 – 80 sts

Do not chain 1 after Round 26.

Round 27: sl st around – 80 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Once you finish both parts, you can create the spots of the toadstool either by cross stitching them or by sewing hashtags. See my miniature toadstool container pattern for an example: MINIATURE TOADSTOOL.

I chose to cross stitch the spots. I made a few different sizes. See picture below.

Your container is complete! You can use it to store small items such as safety pins, paper clips, stitch markers, buttons, etc. Or you can use it as a doll house for a small doll.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!

Happy Crochet!

Igloo and Christmas Tree

If you have been following me for a while, you know that I love making houses for my dolls. So, even before I made the polar bear (see my last post), I knew I was going to make an igloo for him. And since tomorrow it’s Christmas, I also had to make a Christmas tree. I hope you like this set and enjoy making it!

And if you have missed my last post, click HERE to see the pattern for the polar bear.

Materials:

  1. Super chunky yarn – white
  2. Worsted weigh yarn – light blue, green, brown
  3. Crochet hooks: 6 mm (Clover Amour) for igloo and 4 mm (Clover Amour) for the Christmas tree
  4. Large piece of cardboard (optional)
  5. Sewing needle
  6. Hot glue gun (optional)
  7. Stuffing

Abbreviations:

  1. Mr – magic ring
  2. Ch – chain
  3. Sl st – slip stitch
  4. Sc – single crochet
  5. Hdc – half double crochet
  6. Inc – increase
  7. Dec – decrease
  8. FLO – front loop only
  9. BLO – back look only

Pattern

Base Pattern:

We will start by creating the base. Use white yarn.

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Crochet Round 6 in the BLO.

Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 2; (4 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 48 sts

Continue crocheting in both loops.

Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 2; (5 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 56 sts

Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 2; (6 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 64 sts

Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 2; (7 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 72 sts

Round 10: 72 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: You can make a second base, put a cardboard piece between the two, and sew the two together. That way your base will be sturdier. I left mine without a bottom base for now.

Basket Pattern:

After finishing the base, we will create the inside of the igloo.

Continue with white yarn.

For Round 1, crochet in the FLO stitches of Round 5.

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Rounds 1 – 3: 40 sc

Round 4: 40 sl st

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Igloo Pattern:

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: 32 sc

Round 6: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 7: (9 sc, inc) x 4 – 44 sts

Note: If you want a tighter fit, do not make Round 7 increases but continue with 40 stitches in each round. I wanted a looser fit so my daughter can open and close the container easily.

Rounds 8 – 10: 44 sc

Note: We will now start crocheting in rows to create an opening for the igloo. We will continue the count from where we stopped with the rounds.

Row 11: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn

Row 12: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn

Row 13: 39 sc; turn

Row 14: 39 sl st

Igloo Opening:

Row 1: When you get to the opening, make 3 sc going up; then 6 sc (in the 5 sts you left empty and 1 extra from where you were joining rounds earlier); and make another 3 sc going down the opening. See pictures below.

Once you make the 3rd sc going down chain 1 and turn. You should have 12 sts for the opening of the igloo.

Row 2: 12 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: To make the igloo more detailed, you can sew blue lines using the back stitch. I started on Round 4 of the igloo and went all around. Then I did the same for Rounds 8 and 12. I also used the back stitch to sew around the opening of the igloo. Then every few stitches I sewed down starting from the very top. You can make the “ice bricks” of the igloo as big or small as you wish.

Christmas Tree Pattern:

Start with green yarn and 4 mm crochet hook. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts

Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts

Round 4: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 5

Round 4: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 3. (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts

Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 6: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 7

Round 6: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 5. (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts

Round 8: in FLO (2 hdc, inc) x 8

Round 8: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 7. (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts

Round 9: (4 sc, dec) x 3 – 15 sts

Round 10: (3 sc, dec) x 3 – 12 sts

Stuff the Christmas tree well. Change color to brown.

Rounds 11 – 12: 12 sc

Finish stuffing the tree and the tree trunk.

Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

You can use festive buttons and beads to decorate your tiny Christmas tree.

Amigurumi Polar Bear

It’s almost Christmas and I wanted to create a tiny design that anyone can make. This little polar bear is super special. He is tiny and adorable and comes with his very own… Hmm… I think I will keep that a secret until next week. 

NOTE: This pattern is designed by Diana Moore from PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE. This pattern is available for free only on my blog pinkmouseboutique.com. If you see the pattern and pictures posted on another website, please let me know. Thank you!

MATERIALS:

  1. Worsted weight yarn:
    1. white – for the bear 
    2. red – scarf
    3. black – eyes and nose
  2. Clover Amour crochet hook, 3.25 mm
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Stuffing
  5. Glue gun
  6. Snowflake button (optional)

ABBREVIATIONS:

mr – magic ring                                              dec – decrease

ch – chain                                                         inc – increase

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

NOTES:

  1. Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
  2. Use the invisible decrease technique when decreasing. 

PATTERN:

We will begin by making the head, body, and legs (in one piece).

Start with white yarn.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: 24 sc

Round 8: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Round 9: (sc inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 10 – 13: 24 sts

Stuff the head and body well.

The legs will be made with 9 sts on each side of the body. The 6 sts (3 in the front and 3 in the back will be sewn later).

Leg 1:

Continue from where you stopped with the body.

Round 1: 8 sc, sk 15 sts, 1 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 9 sc

Leave a long tail and fasten off.

Leg 2:

Leave 6 sts in the middle for sewing (3 in the back and 3 in the front of the body). Join yarn to one of the 9 sts you left for the 2nd leg. Continue following the instructions for the first leg. 

Once you finish both legs, stuff them well, finish them off and secure the stitches.

Face:

Sew the eyes on Round 5, 5 stitches apart.

Sew the nose in the middle 3 stitches between the eyes. Then sew one long line starting from the middle of the nose and going down 2 rounds.

Arms (x 2):

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 5 sc in the ring – 5 sts

Rounds 2 – 5: 5 sc around

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Ears (x 2):

mr, ch 1, 5 hdc in the ring

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Tail:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 sc

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Scarf:

Use red yarn or any color of your choice.

Ch 66

Fasten off.

Assembly:

Sew the arms on Round 8 (or 9) of the body. Sew the tail in the back a round above the legs. Sew the ears on top of the head (a round below the magic ring). Using a cotton swab and blush, make pink cheeks. NOTE: Cover the body with a piece of fabric so the blush doesn’t stain it.

Fold the scarf in half and find the middle. With the glue gun, glue the middle of the scarf to the front of the bear (Round 9).

You will wrap it around a few times while gluing in a few places to make sure the scarf will stay in place. Note: Add only a little bit of glue at a time so it doesn’t look messy. Tuck both ends under the scarf and glue to secure.

Optional: Sew a small snowflake to the scarf (a little to one side).

And voila! You have made an adorable little polar bear! Now you can also add a ribbon to its head and make it an ornament. πŸ™‚

Stay tuned! In a few days, this little guy will show you something special!

HAPPY CROCHET!