Well, I am excited to have finally published Part 5 of the Pocket Valentines, the Bee. I hope you like this little one as much as the other parts in the series.
Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the bee.
WINGS (x 2)
Suggested Color – White
Ch 5
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 2 ch, 4 sc in last ch; working on the opposite side of chain 1 sc in 3 ch; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 2: 1 sc in 2 sts, hdc, 4 dc inc, hdc, 1 sc in 2 sts – 14 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Set aside.
ANTENNAE (x 2)
Suggested Color – Dark Yellow
Ch 4
Row 1: 2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last 2 chains – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ARMS (x 2)
Suggested color – Dark Yellow
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Colors – Dark Yellow and Black
NOTE: I do not weave in the ends. I tie knots and hide them inside since we will make two pieces for the body and then crochet them together to join.
With Dark Yellow, ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 5: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Black
Rows 6 – 7: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Dark Yellow
Rows 8 – 9: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Black
Rows 10 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Dark Yellow
Row 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 12: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 14: sc in each st
Continue sc around the entire body, in every st and row.
Sl st to the 1st st of Row 14.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the yarn from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
With Dark Pink, sew a couple of times a row below the eyes to make the cheeks.
Sew the arms a row below the cheeks.
7. Place the two pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
8. Sew the wings at the back of the body.
9. Sew the antennae in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
And your little bee is finished!
I hope you enjoyed making this critter. Please let me know in the comments.
Another Pocket Valentine that was not planned. But this little axolotl would not leave me alone until I made it. 🙂 I hope you like this new addition to the Pocket Valentines series. Don’t forget to let me know in the comments below.
Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the axolotl.
You will notice that the pattern for the body and arms is the same as the other critters.
Arms (x 2)
Suggested color – Peach
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
External Gills (x 6)
Suggested Color – Dark Pink
Ch 3
Round 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in last ch; going around the other side of the ch 1 sc – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested Colors – Peach and Dark Pink
With Peach, ch 8
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 5 chains; 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc in last ch; going around the other side of the ch 1 sc in 6 chains; ch 1 and turn – 15 sts
Change Color – Dark Pink
Row 2: sc in 6 sts; (sc and hdc) in next st, (hdc, trbl, hdc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next; sc in last 6 sts – 19 sts
Fasten off both Peach and Dark Pink leaving a long Peach tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Color – Pink
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2nd piece.
Assembly
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
With Dark Pink, sew a couple of times a row below the eyes to make the cheeks.
Sew the arms a row below the cheeks.
7. Place the two pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
8. Use pins to position the External Gills in place – 3 on each side of the head. Then sew in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
9. Sew the tail on Row 10, at the back middle of the body.
This little fox was not planned. But once the idea popped into my head, I had to make it.
If you have made the other Valentine critters, you will notice that most of the instructions are the same as for the other animals. Only the tail and some of the facial details are different.
Notes: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the fox.
Arms (x 2)
Suggested color – Orange
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Ears (x 2)
Suggested Color – Orange
Round 1: in a mr 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 trbl, 1 hdc, 1 sc; do not sl st to join – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested Colors – Orange and White
With Orange, ch 3
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 2: 2 inc; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 3: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts (do not cut the orange yarn just yet)
Change Color – White (leave a long beginning tail)
Row 4: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 5: in BLO 2 dec; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 6: in FLO dec – 1 st
Fasten off.
Cut the orange yarn leaving a long enough tail to crochet around the orange part. With a needle carry it to the left side of the tail and begin sc around the orange part with the orange yarn. When you get to the white part, change color and use the white beginning tail. Sc around with white. Fasten off when you get to the orange. I did not slip stitch to join to the orange. I sewed the first orange and last white stitches together. Weave in all ends, except for the one you will use to sew the tail in place.
BODY – Back Piece
Suggested Colors – Orange
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
BODY – Front Piece
Suggested Colors – White and Orange
With White, ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 5: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (3 rows)
Change Color – Orange
Rows 6 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (6 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Do not fasten off just yet.
ASSEMBLY
With black, sew the nose. The nose is sewn between Rows 4 and 6. Refer to the first five pictures below. Count 4 spaces in start sewing the nose at the 4th space going down one row. I sewed once in each at first and then went back, and sewed one more time (the 4th picture). Once the bottom of the nose is filled, sew three lines at the top.
With black, sew the eyes a stitch away from the nose on Row 4. Sew several times. Tie knots to secure the yarn.
With orange, sew lines starting with the two stitches above the nose and going up increasing the lines: 2 above the nose, 3 lines in next row, 5 lines in following row, and 7 lines in last row. Secure the yarn by tying both ends with a knot.
Sew the arms at an angle between Rows 7 and 8.
5. Put the front and back pieces together with the wrong side touching and the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both inserting the hook through the front piece first. Stuff lightly before completely closing the piece. Slip stitch until the end. Weave in the tail.
6. Sew the tail in place. I sewed the orange part in place and left the white part free. I sewed the tail at an angle.
7. Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the ears in place. Use black fabric marker, to color the tip of the ears.
8. OPTIONAL: With the cotton swab and blush, add color to the cheeks.
Our little fox is finished!
I hope you enjoyed this part of the pattern. Let me know in the comments below.
Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the animals.
You will notice that the body pattern is the same one we used to make the bear from Part 2. You will also notice that some of the details are repeated throughout.
FROG DETAILS
Eyes (x 2)
Suggested Color – White
Round 1: 6 hdc in a mr; do not join with a sl st – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Cheeks (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Yellow
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Arms (x 2) – Same for Bunny and Pig
Suggested color – Green
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BUNNY DETAILS
Ears (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Grey
Ch 5
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 2 chains, 4 sc in last ch, on other side of ch 1 sc in 3 chains
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Cheeks (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join – 6 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested color – Light Grey
Round 1: 8 hdc in a mr; sl st to join
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
PIG DETAILS
Ears (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Round 1: in a mr 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 trbl, 1 hdc, 1 sc; do not sl st to join – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Muzzle
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Ch 4
Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next; 4 sc in last ch; continue on other side of chain 1 sc in next, 2 sc in last ch; sl st to join – 10 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Ch 5
Row 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in next 3 chains – 12 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Colors – Green (Frog), Grey (Bunny), or Light Pink (Pig)
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2nd piece.
FROG ASSEMBLY
Sew the cheeks between Rows 3 and 6 (we are not counting the sc we did all around the body).
With black yarn, sew a line going from the mr of the left cheek to the mr of the right cheek.
Starting a row below the line we sewed, insert the needle in the closest space to the left cheek and then go over the line and insert it in the same space again. Repeat until you get to the space next to the right cheek. This will make the mouth smiley.
4. Sew the arms 1-2 rows below the cheeks.
5. Put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.
6. Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the eyes on either side of the body. Once the white part is in place, sew the shank buttons using white thread.
BUNNY ASSEMBLY
With black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 (not counting the sc going around the body), 5 sts apart.
Sew the eye detail with white yarn.
With Taupe, sew the nose in the 3 middle stitches. The horizontal line is sewn in the same spaces as the bottom of the eyes. Once the horizontal line is sewn, sew a line going down 2 rows.
Sew the cheeks below the eyes.
Sew the arms below the cheeks.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Just like we did with the frog, put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.
8. Sew both ears on the right side using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
PIG ASSEMBLY
With black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 (not counting the sc going around the body), 5 sts apart.
Sew the eye detail with white.
Sew the muzzle between the eyes. The top of the muzzle should be sewn to the same spaces as the bottom of the eyes.
Sew the arms a row below the muzzle.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Just like we did with the frog, put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.
Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the ears in place.
OPTIONAL: Add color to the cheeks with blush and a cotton swab.
Three more friends have been added to your collection.
Make sure to subscribe to my email list, so you don’t miss my next post. More Valentine’s Day friends will be joining the critters.
And let me know what you think of the pattern in the comments below.
After finishing Part 1 and Part 2, we are now ready to continue with Part 3 and make a tiny narwhal.
Remember that this pattern consists of several parts. You can click on the links below to jump to any of the other parts. Some have not been posted yet but will be added soon.
Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the narwhal.
TOOTH/TUSK PATTERN
Suggested Color – White
Ch 5
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in last ch – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
TAIL PATTERN (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Blue (or Light Pink)
Ch 6
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next, hdc in next, sl st in last ch – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
FINS PATTERN (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Blue (or Light Pink)
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in last ch – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY PATTERN (x 2)
Suggested Color – Light Blue (or Light Pink)
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 chains, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 6: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (4 rows)
Row 7: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and tun – 8 sts
Row 8: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 9: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 2 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts
Row 10: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts
Row 11: sc, in FLO 2 dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 12: in BLO 2 dec; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 2 sts
Continue sc all around the body, every st and row. Sl st to join to 1st st of Row 13.
Fasten off 1st piece. Do not break the yarn from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart. Sew the white eye detail on the side of each eye.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
5. Place the two pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
6. Using the whip stitch, sew the tooth in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece (see picture below). Make sure the tooth is centered.
7. We will continue sewing the tail and then the fins. We will again sew only to the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
8. Before sewing the fins in place, take the end tail and insert it through the beginning chain (see picture below), then pull. The fins are sewn a row below the mouth. So that they are not sticking too much to the side, I sewed 2 stitches of the fins to the body.
9. Once finished, tie knots and stuff the ends inside the body.
And now, you have completed Part 3 of the Tiny Valentines pattern. I hope you enjoyed making these sweet little narwhals. Let me know what you think in the comments below.
After finishing Part 1 of the Tiny Valentines (the envelope and speech bubble), we are ready to make Bear. I use the same size hook and yarn (or thread, in the case of the smaller version above) throughout the entire pattern and all its parts.
This pattern consists of several parts. You can click on the links below to jump to any of the other parts. Some have not been posted yet but will be added soon.
Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the bear.
EARS (x 2)
Suggested color – Taupe
Round 1: 6 hdc in a mr
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
MUZZLE
Suggested color – Pearl
Row 1: 6 sc in a mr; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts
Row 2: sc, 4 inc, sc – 10 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
TAIL
Suggested color – Taupe
Round 1: 8 hdc in a mr; sl st to join
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ARMS (x 2)
Suggested color – Taupe
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
NOTE: I do not weave in the ends. I tie knots and hide them inside since we will make two pieces for the body and then crochet them together to join.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Color – Taupe
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
Sew the muzzle on Rows 4 through 7.
Sew the nose using Black yarn. Insert the needle only through the two middle stitches of the muzzle that will be used for the nose. Sew several times.
Once finished with the nose, use the same yarn, and sew a line through the middle of the muzzle. I began the line at the magic ring hole.
With Black yarn, sew several times on Row 4 on either side of the muzzle to make the eyes. Once finished, use White yarn to sew an eye detail.
Sew the arms at an angle a row below the muzzle.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Put both pieces, back and front, together making sure they align. Sl st through both pieces.
When you are almost finished closing the piece, insert stuffing. Do not stuff too much. You only need to stuff a little to make sure the bear is not completely flat. Finish closing the piece. Weave in the ends or secure the ends by tying knots and hiding them inside the body.
10. Using the whip stitch, sew the ears in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
If you have used Drops Muskat wosrted weight, your bear will be about 2.5 inches tall. If you have used Lizbeth 20 with a 1.25 mm hook (for the smaller bear in the pictures at the beginning of the post), your bear will be about an inch tall. Please note that the finished size depends not only on the materials used, but also on your tension.
This year for Valentine’s Day, I wanted to create a design that is adorable, but also easy and quick to make; something that even a beginner can crochet without frustration; something that can be made last minute. My first idea was to put a tiny bear in an envelope. But once I made that, the idea of the speech bubble with the little heart came to me. Then while my testers were testing the pattern, I crocheted several other little animals using the pattern for the bear. And now, we have a pattern with several parts. Best of all, you have choices of what animal to make depending on who you are making this Valentine for.
And because the pattern is growing and because I wanted to make it easy to follow, I decided to split it in small parts.
Note: You will notice that when I decrease in the pattern, I either crochet in the BLO or the FLO. I do that because it makes the decrease neater, or invisible. You can do a normal decrease and insert the hook in both loops when decreasing if that is what you prefer.
SPEECH BUBBLE PATTERN
Suggested color – White
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 chains, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 6: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (4 rows)
Row 7: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 8: 1 sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 9: in FLO 2 dec; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 10: in BLO dec; ch 1 and turn – 1 st
Row 11: 1 sc
Sc all around the speech bubble, in every st and row. Slip stitch to join to the st of Row 11. You should have 31 sts.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
HEART PATTERN
Suggested color – Dark Pink
Round 1: in a mr 2 sc, hdc, 3 dc, ch 2 and sl st, ch 2 and 3 dc, hdc, 2 sc; sl st to join – 13 sts
Fasten off. Pull beginning tail to close the ring.
I used a hot glue gun to attach the heart to the speech bubble.
Set it aside and let’s continue with the Stamp and Envelope.
STAMP PATTERN
Suggested Color – White
Ch 6
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc until the end; ch 1 and turn – 5 sts
Rows 2 – 5: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 5 sts (4 rows)
Row 6: sc in each st – 5 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Sew the heart button at the center of the stamp.
Set aside.
ENVELOPE PATTERN – Part 1
Suggested Color – Light Green
Ch 25
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc until the end; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts
Rows 2 – 18: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts (17 rows)
Row 19: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 18 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 22 sts
Row 20: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 16 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 20 sts
Row 21: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 20 sts
Row 22: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 14 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 18 sts
Row 23: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 12 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 16 sts
Row 24: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 16 sts
Row 25: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 10 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 14 sts
Row 26: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 8 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 12 sts
Row 27: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 12 sts
Row 28: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 6 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 29: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 30: sc in each st – 8 sts
Row 31: sc, in FLO dec, 1 sc in 2 sts, in FLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts
Row 32: sc, in BLO 2 dec, sc – 4 sts
Row 33: in FLO 2 dec – 2 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends. Set aside.
ENVELOPE PATTERN – Part 2
Suggested Color – Light Pink
Ch 25
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc until the end; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts
Rows 2 – 15: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts (14 rows)
Row 16: sc in each st
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
ENVELOPE ASSEMBLY
Using the Light Green yarn, sew the stamp on the envelope at the top right corner, between Rows 10 and 16.
Using Black yarn, sew 3 black lines starting 2 rows below the stamp. The lines should be 11 to 12 stitches long and sewn two rows apart. Weave in the ends.
Using Black yarn, sew two lines to the left of the stamp. The first line should be sewn on Row 12 and the second line – on Row 14. Weave in the ends.
Flip the back of the envelope (Light Green), so that the inside is facing you. Place the pink rectangle on top. Align the bottom and sides of the two pieces. Using Light Green, slip stitch through both starting at the top left corner of the pink rectangle. Slip stitch all around the left side, the bottom, and then the right side.
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and without fastening off pull the end out only of the green part of the envelope.
Continue slip stitching only through the top of the pink part of the envelope.
7. Once finished, fasten off and pull the end tail through both the pink and green parts of the envelope. Weave in the ends.
8. Sew a snap button in place. NOTE: Pick a smaller button. I only had this large one on hand.
The idea to create a Unicorn Zombie was given to me by one of my followers on Instagram last year. It took me a while, but finally I was able to make this cute little guy. And I am so happy with the final look! The bone is a challenge though. 🙂
This version of the pattern is FREE. You can also find a PREMIUM version that includes a drawing of the unicorn that you can use to create fun Halloween cards. The premium version is a PDF file that you can conveniently download and print.
We will end Round 16 there. Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.
BODY
Turn the head upside down with the back of the head facing you.
You will notice that there are 2 sets of unworked stitches – 4 that are closest to you (this is where the back of the body will be once you make it) and 4 are further away from you (where the front of the body will be once you make it). Insert the hook in the 2nd to last st beginning with the back (closest to you) and with a sc join Clarity.
Round 1: sc again in same st where you joined thread and inc in next st
Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front
Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the front; do not grab the last st from the back)
Inc in next 3 sts
Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front
Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the back; do not grab the last st from the front)
Inc in last st
After you finish Round 1, you should have 16 sts.
Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts
Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)
Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts
Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts
Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 28 sts (2 rounds)
Round 9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 – 24 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the body well. Leave 8 stitches on each side of the body for legs. Mark the middle 8 stitches (4 at the front and 4 at the back) with thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs are aligned with the head.
LEGS (x 2)
Turn the body upside down (back side facing you) and with a sc join Clarity thread in one of the stitches you left for the 1st leg.
Round 1: sc in each st until you get to the thread marking the middle sts. Insert hook in same st as last sc and in the st at the other side of the body. 1 sc ; sc until the end of round – 8 sts
Round 2: sc around – 8 sts
Stuff well.
Round 3: 4 dec – 4 sts
Fasten off.
Repeat for the second leg.
Once finished, sew the middle 8 stitches to close.
Secure the stitches.
ARM
Crochet in spiral.
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts
Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)
Round 8: 4 dec – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BONE
Crochet tight.
Because I used thread, I didn’t need to stuff the bone. If you are using yarn, you may need to stuff a little.
Suggested color – DMC cotton perle 12 with a 1 mm hook (NOTE: I used yarn for the step-by-step pictures)
Ch 4
Round 1: 1 puff stitch in 2nd ch from hook (Please follow the steps below and refer to the pictures)
YO and insert hook through 2nd chain from hook, YO and pull (three loops on hook)
YO and pull through 2 loops (two loops left on hook)
YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (four loops on hook)
YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook)
YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (five loops on hook)
YO and pull through all loops (puff stitch created)
1 sc in next chain
2 puff stitches in last ch
Now we will crochet on the other side of the chain
1 sc in next ch
1 puff stitch in last ch
At the end of Round 1, you should have 6 stitches.
Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches. Leave one of the tails for sewing later.
EAR 1
Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (hdc, dc, hdc) in third st, inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 9 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
EAR 2
Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (1 hdc, ch 2 and sl st in 3rd st), inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 8 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
EYE
Suggested color: DMC cotton perle 12, black with a 1 mm hook
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 2: (1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 2; sl st to join – 10 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Use DMC cotton perle 12, color white thread to sew a few times in a stitch in the eye to make a large sparkle. Then sew a couple of times in another st to make a second sparkle (a bit smaller than the first one).
HORN
Suggested color – DMC metallic thread (2 or 3 strands)
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 2: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 3: in BLO (2 sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 5: in BLO (sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
TAIL (x 6)
Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant
Ch 6
Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
MANE (5 or 6)
Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant
Ch 15
Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 14 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ASSEMBLY
Sew the eye to the head, right above the muzzle. I sewed the eye on the left part of the face.
Using Curio size 10, black thread and a needle, sew a line going up 4 rounds at an angle on the right side of the head. The bottom of the line should be 7 stitches from the eye and the top – about 4 or 5 stitches from the top of the eye. Once the line is sewn (I sewed twice to make it thicker), sew 3 smaller lines crossing the longer one. Secure the thread.
Sew the horn 4 rounds above the eyes.
Sew the ears about 2 stitches behind the horn, about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the arm one round below the head and the bone – two rounds below the head making sure both align with the legs.
Sew the pieces you made for the tail at the back of the body, one or two rounds above the legs.
Sew the pieces you made for the mane at the back of the head, between the ears.
With black thread, sew a line going down the arm about four rounds. Then sew two smaller lines crossing the longer one.
With the Conch color (also light or salmon pink), cross stitch in 5 stitches below the right ear (about 2 rounds above the eye).
Using a small brush or cotton swab, apply your choice of color of the hard pastel around the scarred eye and arm patch. I also applied some on the broken ear, the bottom of the legs, and a little around the left eye (the round one).
I love everything about the fall season – the rain, the colors, the falling leaves. Everything…
And this year I was inspired to make a sweet little acorn. You can add a cute face or leave it plain for a more stylish fall decor.
The pattern is below.
Or you can download the free PDF by visiting my amigurumi patterns (dot) net store here: PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE
MATERIALS
Aunt Lydia’s size 10:
Light brown – acorn
Dark brown – acorn top
Light pink – cheeks
DMC cotton perle 12 (or single strand DMC floss)
Black – mouth
Plastic eyes – 3 mm
Clover Amour hooks – 1.5 mm and 1.00 mm
Stuffing
Clear tacky glue
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic ring
St(es) – stitch(es)
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Inc – increase
Dec – decrease (invisible decrease)
RS – right side
PATTERN
ACORN
Crochet in continuous rounds.
Round 1: (RS) with light brown 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: sc around – 6 sts
Round 3: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 4: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 6: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 7: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 8: (5 sc, inc) x 6 – 42 sts
Rounds 9 – 18: sc around – 42 sts (10 rounds)
If you are using safety eyes, attach them between Rounds 11 and 12, 7 spaces apart.
Round 19: (5 sc, dec) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 20: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 21: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 22: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Stuff firmly. You may need to stuff more before finishing the last round.
Round 23: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Round 24: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.
Images are as follows, Left to Right and Top to Bottom: A, B, C, D, E, F
STEM
Crochet tight. The stem is not stuffed.
Round 1: with dark brown 4 sc in a mr – 4 sts
Round 2: 4 inc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Round 3: sc in BLO – 8 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x 2 – 6 sts
Rounds 5 – 7: sc around – 6 sts (3 rounds)
ACORN CAP – Continue crocheting from where you stopped with the stem.
Round 8: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 9: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 10: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 11: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 12: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts
Round 13: (5 sc, inc) x 6 – 42 sts
Round 14: (6 sc, inc) x 6 – 48 sts
Rounds 15 – 18: sc around – 48 sts (4 rounds)
Round 19: (6 sc, dec) x 6 – 42 sts
Stuff the cap and place it on the acorn. Hold in place while crocheting the last round. Pictures B and C
Round 20: sl st around – 42 sts (Picture D)
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew Round 19 of the acorn cap to the space between Round 15 and Round 16 of the acorn. Because we did a round of slip stitch, we don’t need to sew every single stitch. Sew every 4 or 5 stitches. (Picture E)
SHAPING THE ACORN CAP
You can leave the acorn cap as is (Picture F) or you can create a slight indentation and add more shape to it (Picture G).
To do that, we will sew between Rounds 8 and 9 of the acorn cap pulling tightly to create the indentation. Use the same color thread you used to make the cap. I used ecru for the step by step pictures to show the process better.
Insert your needle through a stitch in the acorn and through a space between Rounds 8 and 9 of the acorn cap (Picture H). Insert the needle through the next stitch of the acorn cap (Picture I) and through any stitch of the acorn.
Pull tight while holding the beginning tail (Picture J).
Insert your needle through the same stitch in the acorn you just pulled it out of (Picture K) and through the next space in the acorn cap (Picture L).
Pull tight and insert your needle through the next space between Rounds 8 and 9 of the acorn cap and any one stitch of the acorn. Pull tight. (Picture M)
Repeat until you create an indentation all around the stem. Make sure to pull tight to create the indentation but be careful not to break the thread.
Images are Left to Right and Top to Bottom: G, H, I, J, K, L, M, and N
LEAVES (x 2)
Ch 6
Round 1: 1 sc in 4 sts, 3 sc in last st; going around the chain 1 sc in 4 sts; sl st to join sides and ch 1 – 11 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st; 3 hdc in 2nd st, sl st in next, (3 dc in 4th st, sl st in next) x 3; 3 hdc in 2nd to last st, 1 sc in last st; sl st in the sl st you made earlier; ch 3 and 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next; sl st in the sl st where you began the ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Sew the stems of the leaves together and then to Round 8 of the acorn cap. The leaves are to the right of the eyes.
EYES: Glue the eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 7 spaces apart if you have not done so already.
CHEEKS: With light pink thread sew three times a round below each eye, about 3 stitches long.
MOUTH: Use DMC cotton perle 12 black thread (or single strand DMC floss).
Insert both ends a stitch away from each eye. Pull until you have enough thread to form the smile.
Put clear tacky glue on the black thread and press on the acorn’s face with the back of your hook forming a cute smile.
Images are Left to Right and Top to Bottom: O, P, Q, R, and S
Baby Panda and Baby Bear were a special request from my daughter.
Because they are only 1.5 inches tall (in sitting position), they fit perfectly in her dollhouse and she loves playing with them over and over and over.
The pattern is a quick and easy one to make. I used Copper for Baby Bear and White and Black for Baby Panda, but Curio has so many beautiful colors that you can make a whole collection of colorful baby bears. If you sew the eyes with Curio Black thread instead of using plastic eyes, these bears made in all of Curio colors can be used to teach little ones colors and counting and sorting and make math more fun!
You can download the PDF file here for free: BABY ANIMALS
MATERIALS:
Thread – Curio size 10 (various colors)
Natural – face and hands
Copper – bear costume
Black and White – panda costume
Pistachio/Tea Rose – binky
Plastic eyes – 2 mm
Hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
Stuffing
Tacky glue
Cotton swab and blush
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic ring Inc – increase
Ch – chain Dec – decrease
St(es) – stitch(es) Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch Hdc – half double crochet
HEAD
Join rounds with a slip st and chain 1.
Round 1: with ecru 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Rounds 5 – 10: sc around – 24 sts (6 rounds)
Round 11: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 12: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Stuff the head.
Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts
BODY
Change color depending on animal costume. Continue crocheting in spiral.
If you are making a baby panda, use black thread for Rounds 14 – 17. Then change color to whiteto finish the body.
Rounds 14: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 15: (2 sc, inc) x 4 – 16 sts
Rounds 16 – 17: sc around – 16 sts (2 rounds)
Round 18: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts
Round 19: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts
Rounds 20 – 23: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)
Round 24: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 25: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Stuff the body.
Round 26: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off and secure the stitches. Set aside.
ARMS (x 2):
Round 1: with ecru 5 sc in a mr – 5 sts
Round 2: (inc, sc) x 2, inc in last st – 8 sts
Round 3: sc around – 8 sts
Change color depending on animal costume.
Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x 2 – 6 sts
Rounds 5 – 9: sc around
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
LEGS (x 2):
Use the color for animal costume.
Round 1: (2 sc, 3 hdc, 2 sc) in a mr – 7 sts
Round 2: sc inc in 2 sts, hdc inc in 3 sts, sc inc in 2 sts – 14 sts
Rounds 3 – 5: 14 sts (3 rounds)
Round 6: 1 sc in 3 sts, 4 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 10 sts
Stuff the foot.
Round 7: 1 sc in 3 sts, 2 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 8 sts
Rounds 8 – 10: sc around – 8 sts (3 rounds)
Stuff the leg lightly.
Round 11: 4 dec – 4 sts
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
EARS (x 2):
Use the color for animal costume.
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Rounds 3 – 5: sc around – 12 sts (3 rounds)
Round 6: sl st around – 12 sts
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
TAIL:
Use the color for animal costume.
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 12 sts (2 rounds)
Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
HAT:
With animal color
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Rounds 6 – 10: sc around – 30 sts (5 rounds)
Round 11: 1 sl st in next 2 sts
BINKY:
Leave a long tail before you begin.
Round 1: with pistachio 8 sc in a mr
Sl st to join and fasten off.
ASSEMBLY:
Glue the eyes between Rounds 8 and 9, about 5 stitches apart.
Use the eyes as a guide when sewing the legs and arms.
The legs are sewn between Rounds 22 and 23. Turn the doll to one side. The very back of the leg should be about 6 stitches away from the eye (the foot would be closer to the animal’s tummy that way). Sew several times and in several places so the leg is securely attached to the body. Then repeat with the other leg.
Sew the arms on Rounds 15 and 16. Turn the body to one side (just like we did with the legs). The back end of the arm should be about 4 stitches away from the eye. I sewed the back of the arms to the body and then I sewed the “hands” to the belly, so they stay snugged.
Position the hat so it’s about 4 rounds above the eyes and sew it to the head.
Using the whip stitch, sew the ears on Rounds 2 through 5 of the hat. Once you finish, wet the ears and press the middle with the back of a metal hook. This will give the ears a nice shape.
Sew the tail at the back of the bear, between the legs. Before finishing, insert a little stuffing.
Before attaching the binky to the face, insert the mr tail through the mr.
Insert the needle through a front loop on any stitch on the right side of the piece. Refer to the picture on the right.
Before pulling the needle all the way through the stitch, wrap the thread around it 10 times. Carefully pull the needle through the thread and the stitch. Then insert the needle back through the mr and pull.
Attach the binky to the face, a round below the eyes. I used tacky glue in addition to sewing it to the face.
Use a cotton swab and blush to add a little pink to the cheeks.
pinkmouseboutique.com 