pink mouse boutique

This Baby Penguin pattern happened by accident. I was actually trying to make a little puppy but somewhere in the process, I decided that the puppy looks more like a penguin. I am loving this little guy! He is super cute and very, very quick to make. There is almost no sewing which to me is always a plus!

This is a free version of the pattern. If you would like a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive PDF file could be downloaded from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. The premium version also includes more step by step pictures as well as a pattern for a tiny Santa hat to go with your little Baby Penguin.

MATERIALS:

Thread:
1. DMC Baroque size 10, white – body
1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10, color of your choice – coat and flippers
1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10, yellow – beak
1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10, light pink – cheeks
Hook: 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
Plastic eyes, 2 mm (or use black thread to sew the eyes)
Stuffing
Sewing needle and scissors
Tacky glue

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring Trbl – treble crochet

Ch – chain Inc – increase

St(es) – stitch(es) Dec – decrease

Sl st – slip stitch

Sc – single crochet

Hdc – half double crochet

NOTES:

Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
This doll is crocheted with the RS (right side).
When decreasing (sc2tog), use the invisible decrease technique.

PATTERN

BODY

Round 1: with white 6 sc in mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Rounds 5 – 6: sc around – 24 sts

Round 7: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 8: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts

Rounds 9 – 11: sc around – 36 sts

Round 12: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts

NOTE: Stuff the body well. You may need to stuff more before finishing the last round.

Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 15: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Round 16: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off. Finish off and secure stitches. Set aside.

COAT

Do not cut the tail from the magic ring. We will need it later.

Round 1: with pink 6 sc in mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 5: sc around – 24 sts

NOTE: We will start crocheting in rows, but the count will continue from where we stopped with the rounds.

Row 6: 1 sc in 16 sts; ch 1 and turn – 16 sts

Row 7: (3 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 20 sts

Row 8: (4 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts

Rows 9 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts

Row 12: sc in each st do not turn but continue up the side

Sc 5 sts evenly spaced

1 sc in last worked st of Round 5. See Picture A.

1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next, 1 trbl in next, 1 hdc in next, 1 sc in next 3 sts. You should have 9 sts across the top.

Continue down the side. Sc 5 sts evenly spaced. See Picture B

NOTE: We will go back to rounds. The count continues from where we stopped with the rows.

Insert the beginning tail of the coat through the magic ring of the body and out through another stitch.

Then place the coat on the body and continue with the next round.

Round 13: 1 sc in next 24 sts, ch 8 and 1 sc in 1^st st of Round 13 (that counts as the 1^st st of Round 14) – 32 sts See Picture C

Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 15: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Round 16: 8 dec – 8 sts

Fasten off and finish off.

Secure the stitches by inserting the beginning and ending tails through the same stitch, tying a knot, and stuffing it inside the body.

FLIPPERS (x 2)

With pink, 8 hdc in mr

Do not join to other side. Leave a tail for sewing. Fasten off and set aside.

ASSEMBLY:

Using the yellow thread, sew the beak starting with the treble stitch from the coat and going one round down on the body. I sewed a few times.
Glue the plastic eyes with tacky glue a round below the coat and 2 sts away from the beak.
With pink thread, sew twice directly under each eye to create the cheeks.
Sew the flippers 2 sts from the edge of the coat, about a round under the round where you glued the eyes. The flippers are sewn with the wrong side facing out. Picture D shows the left flipper. When you finish sewing, insert both ends through the same stitch of the coat, tie a knot, hide the excess thread inside the coat.

NOTE: For the right flipper, weave the ending tail through a few loops to get to the other end of flipper. That way you can sew it to the penguin with the wrong side facing out. See Picture E

OPTIONAL: Make it an ornament by inserting a thin ribbon through the top of the penguin.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

If you have used the materials suggested, your baby penguin should be about 1 inch (about 2.5 cm) tall.

Thank you for visiting my blog! I hope you enjoyed this pattern.

Let me know in the comments section below. I would love to hear from you!

HAPPY CROCHETING!

I made a promise a long time ago to someone that I will write up the pattern of this turtle and post it for free on my blog. That was years ago. Recently I discovered that I had lost the pattern for the original turtle that I made at least 4 years ago. So, I decided to not waste any more time and create a new one and this time write the pattern, take the pictures, and post it. And here we are! I hope you enjoy it.

COPYRIGHT: This pattern is intended for PERSONAL USE only. You may not sell or share the pattern in any form, or distribute it (full or partially), or post it on the Internet, or translate it into other languages.

You may sell the finished products created from this pattern. Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘PinkMouseBoutique’ pattern and also include a link to my website (www.pinkmouseboutique.com).

The items you sell based on this pattern must feature only your own photographs. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.

To download the PDF follow the link here: LITTLE MISS TURTLE

MATERIALS:

Aunt Lydia’s size 10:
1. Ecru
2. Variegated thread
3. Black (for eyes)
Crochet hook, 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
Stuffing
Plastic eyes (2 mm) – optional
Clear tacky glue (if using 2 mm eye)
Sewing needle

NOTE: For the step by step photos, I used Loops&Threads CAPRI yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring

Sc – single crochet

Ch – chain

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

Trbl – treble crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – decrease

Sl st – slip stitch

RS – right side

PART 1: Shell – Top and Bottom

TOP SHELL

Use variegated thread of your choice.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 5 – 7: 28 sc (3 rounds)

Round 8: in FLO (sk 1, 3 trbl in next, sk 1, sl st in next) repeat until the end of this round

You should have 7 shells at the end of Round 8.

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

BOTTOM SHELL

Use ecru thread.

Follow instructions of top shell until Round 4.

Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts; end the round here

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

PART 2: Head and Legs

HEAD

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: 16 sc (3 rounds)

Round 6: 3 sc, 5 dec, 3 sc – 11 sts

Start stuffing the head. Stuff firmly. You will need

to stuff a little more after Round 7.

Round 7: 4 sc, sc3tog (dec), 4 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 8 – 10: 9 sc (3 rounds)

Fasten off.

EYES: For the little turtle I used 2 mm plastic eyes. After I finished the head, I glued them on Round 4, 7 to 8 stitches apart using tacky glue.

For the yarn turtle, I used black yarn to sew the eyes. The positioning of the eyes is the same.

Pull the two tails through the same stitch at the back of the head (neck area). We will use those later to sew the neck to the shell so the turtle will stay up straight.

LEGS x 4

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 6 sc

Fold the leg and crochet through the front and back stitch closing the leg (see picture). You should have 3 stitches left.

Fasten off.

Pull the yarn tails through the same stitch. Make a knot and cut the excess ends. Stuff the rest inside the legs.

PART 3: Assembly

We will start by sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell of the turtle.

Use the tail from the bottom shell you left earlier.

Refer to the diagram below when sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell.

When sewing the pieces together, the RS of the bottom shell should be turned towards you.

Refer to the pictures below.

………………RIGHT SIDE (RS)…………………………………….WRONG SIDE (WS)…………..

Sew in the FLO. The BLO will be used to sew the bottom and top shells together.

To sew the legs and head to the bottom shell, we will use the long tail we left after finishing the bottom shell. When you are not sewing body parts, sew through the stitches of the bottom shell to carry the thread. See pictures below.

Start by sewing one of the legs. You will need to sew the three stitches of the leg to only two BLO stitches of the bottom shell.

BLO stitches are left empty (see picture below). We will use them later to sew the bottom and top shells together.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the head. You will be attaching 4 or 5 stitches of the front of the head (neck area) to only 3 stitches of the shell. Make sure the head is centered. Refer to the diagram on Page 6 and to the pictures below.

NOTE: The back four stitches of the head (neck area) will be attached to the top shell later.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the second leg the same way you did the first.

Sew around for 4 stitches to carry the thread and attach the third leg.

Sew around for five stitches to carry the thread and sew the last leg.

Weave in the ends.

Sew the top and bottom shells together using the empty loops you left earlier.

Stuff the shell well before finishing.

NOTE: If you are making your turtle with yarn, make sure you are not over stuffing. If you over stuff the body, the turtle’s belly (bottom shell) will not stay flat and the turtle will not be able to stand straight on its own.