Pocket Valentines – Part 8 (Crochet Pattern)

Originally, I only planned for five Pocket Valentines – Bear, Frog, Bee, Narwhal, and Bunny. But the more critters I made, the more I wanted to make. And here we are, at Part 8.

Follow the instructions below to make the cute jellyfish in the picture. More Pocket Valentines are coming soon.

Please note that the instructions for all Pocket Valentines will be available on my blog free of charge. If you’d like the PDF version which includes all patterns in a convenient downloadable document, you can visit my shops below.

Pocket Valentines on Etsy

Pocket Valentines on Ravelry

Or click on the links below to access the free version for each little critter.

Part 1: Envelope, Speech Bubble, and Heart

Part 2: Bear

Part 3: Narwhal

Part 4: Frog, Bunny, and Pig

Part 8: Jellyfish

Materials

Drops Muskat Worsted Weight: Pomegranate and Black
Crochet Hook, 3.25 mm
Stuffing
Others: sewing needle, scissors

Abbreviations

ch – chain

st – stitch

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

inc – increase

TENTACLES (x 6)

Suggested Color – Pomegranate

Ch 16

Row 1: in back bump of ch only, 1 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc until the end – 15 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Set aside.

BODY (x 2)

Suggested Colors – Pomegranate

ch 7

Row 1: in back bump of ch only, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts

Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts

Row 3: inc, 1 sc in 8 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 12 sts

Row 4: 1 sc in 5 sts, inc, 1 sc in 6 sts; ch 1 and turn – 13 sts

Rows 5 – 7: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 13 sts (3 rows)

Row 8: sc in each st

Sc crochet going around the sides and top of the body. When you reach the Row 8, sl st into the FLO of the 1^st st of that row. Ch 2

We will work in the front loops of Row 8.

3 dc in 1^st st, sk 1 and sl st in next

Repeat 2 more times.

To make the last shell (the 4^th one), sk 1 after the sl st and 3 dc in the last st; ch 2 and sl st in the same st as last dc.

Fasten off and weave in the ends of the first piece (back of body). DO NOT fasten off the 2^nd piece (front of the body).

ASSEMBLY

The face is sewn to the front piece (the one that has not been fastened off yet).

2. Using black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 6, 6 stitches apart.

3. Sew a line in the same space as the bottom of the eyes. The line is sewn between the eyes, a stitch apart from each eye.

4. Starting a row below the line we sewed, insert the needle in the closest space to the left and then go over the line and insert the needle in the same space again. Repeat until you get to the space next to the right cheek. This will make the mouth smiley.

5. Hold the front and back pieces together with the right side facing out and the wrong side facing in. The face of the jellyfish should be turned toward you.

6. Slip stitch through both pieces going up the right side first, then the top, and ending with the left side. Stop when you reach the shells. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

7. Stuff the jellyfish lightly.

8. Insert the end tail, so that it is in between the front and back pieces.

9. Close the body using the back loops. Fasten off and weave in the tail at the back.

10. Open the shells. We will sew the tentacles in between the front and back shells. Begin at one of the ends (left or right). Sew the first tentacle between the 1^st and 2^nd or the 3^rd and 4^th shell. Then sew the second tentacle at the opposite end. After you sew in those two tentacles, sew the sides of the shells. I used a tail from the tentacles.

11. Sew the rest of the tentacles between the two end tentacles.

12. To secure all the tails, insert through the same stitch, tie a knot, and stuff inside the body.

Invisible Joint (Crochet)

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ Leave a comment

I don’t know about you, but I really dislike using stitch markers. So, usually, when I am making a doll and crocheting in the round, I slip stitch to join and chain 1. The problem with joining rounds is that it leaves a very visible mark at the place where we join. Recently, I learned about another way to join rounds which does not leave that mark and it is actually invisible. And the best part is that it is very easy to do.

When you have finished with a round, insert your hook in the back loop of the first stitch of that round and slip stitch. Refer to the three pictures below.

Then insert your hook in the front loop of the same stitch and single crochet (or crochet with whatever stitch you have been using). Refer to the left and middle pictures below. Repeat after each round to get that clean look.

The picture to the right shows the difference between using the invisible joint technique (left) and the slip stitch and chain 1 technique (right).

I hope you found this little tutorial helpful.

Happy Crochet!

Tiny Valentines – Part 4 (Crochet Pattern)

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ 5 Comments

Now it’s time to make Part 4 – Frog, Bunny, and Pig. If you have not made the other parts already, make sure to click on the links below.

Part 1: Envelope, Speech Bubble, and Heart

Part 2: Bear

Part 3: Narwhal

Part 4: Frog, Bunny, and Pig

Part 5: Bee

Part 6: Fox

Part 7: Axolotl

Materials

Drops Muskat Worsted Weight: White, Black, Taupe, Green, Light Pink, Light Yellow, Light Grey
Crochet Hook, 3.25 mm
Stuffing
Black shank buttons, 4 mm (I got mine from HERE)
Others: sewing needle, scissors

Abbreviations

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

st – stitch

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

trbl – treble crochet

inc – increase

Helpful Tutorials

Back Bump of Chain

Notes:

Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the animals.
You will notice that the body pattern is the same one we used to make the bear from Part 2. You will also notice that some of the details are repeated throughout.

FROG DETAILS

Eyes (x 2)

Suggested Color – White

Round 1: 6 hdc in a mr; do not join with a sl st – 6 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Cheeks (x 2)

Suggested Color – Light Yellow

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join – 6 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Arms (x 2) – Same for Bunny and Pig

Suggested color – Green

Ch 4

Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

BUNNY DETAILS

Ears (x 2)

Suggested Color – Light Grey

Ch 5

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in 2 chains, 4 sc in last ch, on other side of ch 1 sc in 3 chains

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Cheeks (x 2)

Suggested Color – Light Pink

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join – 6 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Tail

Suggested color – Light Grey

Round 1: 8 hdc in a mr; sl st to join

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

PIG DETAILS

Ears (x 2)

Suggested Color – Light Pink

Round 1: in a mr 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 trbl, 1 hdc, 1 sc; do not sl st to join – 5 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Muzzle

Suggested Color – Light Pink

Ch 4

Round 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next; 4 sc in last ch; continue on other side of chain 1 sc in next, 2 sc in last ch; sl st to join – 10 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Tail

Suggested Color – Light Pink

Ch 5

Row 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc in next 3 chains – 12 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

BODY (x 2)

Suggested Colors – Green (Frog), Grey (Bunny), or Light Pink (Pig)

Ch 7

Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts

Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts

Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)

LEG 1

Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts

Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts

Fasten off.

LEG 2

Join thread to 7^th st of Row 11.

Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts

Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts

Sc in each st and row all around the body.

Fasten off the 1^st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2^nd piece.

FROG ASSEMBLY

Sew the cheeks between Rows 3 and 6 (we are not counting the sc we did all around the body).
With black yarn, sew a line going from the mr of the left cheek to the mr of the right cheek.
Starting a row below the line we sewed, insert the needle in the closest space to the left cheek and then go over the line and insert it in the same space again. Repeat until you get to the space next to the right cheek. This will make the mouth smiley.

4. Sew the arms 1-2 rows below the cheeks.

5. Put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.

6. Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the eyes on either side of the body. Once the white part is in place, sew the shank buttons using white thread.

BUNNY ASSEMBLY

With black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 (not counting the sc going around the body), 5 sts apart.
Sew the eye detail with white yarn.
With Taupe, sew the nose in the 3 middle stitches. The horizontal line is sewn in the same spaces as the bottom of the eyes. Once the horizontal line is sewn, sew a line going down 2 rows.
Sew the cheeks below the eyes.
Sew the arms below the cheeks.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Just like we did with the frog, put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.

8. Sew both ears on the right side using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.

PIG ASSEMBLY

With black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 (not counting the sc going around the body), 5 sts apart.
Sew the eye detail with white.
Sew the muzzle between the eyes. The top of the muzzle should be sewn to the same spaces as the bottom of the eyes.
Sew the arms a row below the muzzle.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Just like we did with the frog, put the back and front pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both. Stuff lightly before closing the body completely.
Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the ears in place.
OPTIONAL: Add color to the cheeks with blush and a cotton swab.

Three more friends have been added to your collection.

Make sure to subscribe to my email list, so you don’t miss my next post. More Valentine’s Day friends will be joining the critters.

And let me know what you think of the pattern in the comments below.

HAPPY CROCHET!

Pocket Valentines – Part 2 (Crochet Pattern)

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ 5 Comments

After finishing Part 1 of the Tiny Valentines (the envelope and speech bubble), we are ready to make Bear. I use the same size hook and yarn (or thread, in the case of the smaller version above) throughout the entire pattern and all its parts.

This pattern consists of several parts. You can click on the links below to jump to any of the other parts. Some have not been posted yet but will be added soon.

Part 1: Envelope, Speech Bubble, and Heart

Part 2: Bear

Part 3: Narwhal

Part 4: Frog, Bunny, and Pig

Part 5: Bee

Part 6: Fox

Part 7: Axolotl

Materials

Drops Muskat Worsted Weight*: White, Black, Taupe, Pearl
Crochet Hook, 3.25 mm
Stuffing
Heart Button (Optional)
Others: sewing needle, scissors, small snap button, and hot glue gun

*I used Lizbeth 20 with a 1.25 mm hook to make the smaller bear in the pictures above.

Abbreviations

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

st – stitch

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

inc – increase

Helpful Tutorials

Back Bump of Chain

Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the bear.

EARS (x 2)

Suggested color – Taupe

Round 1: 6 hdc in a mr

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

MUZZLE

Suggested color – Pearl

Row 1: 6 sc in a mr; ch 1 and turn – 6 sts

Row 2: sc, 4 inc, sc – 10 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

TAIL

Suggested color – Taupe

Round 1: 8 hdc in a mr; sl st to join

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

ARMS (x 2)

Suggested color – Taupe

Ch 4

Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2^nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

NOTE: I do not weave in the ends. I tie knots and hide them inside since we will make two pieces for the body and then crochet them together to join.

BODY (x 2)

Suggested Color – Taupe

Ch 7

Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2^nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts

Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts

Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)

LEG 1

Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts

Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts

Fasten off.

LEG 2

Join thread to 7^th st of Row 11.

Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts

Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts

Sc in each st and row all around the body.

Fasten off the 1^st piece. Do not break the thread from the 2^nd piece.

ASSEMBLY

The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
Sew the muzzle on Rows 4 through 7.
Sew the nose using Black yarn. Insert the needle only through the two middle stitches of the muzzle that will be used for the nose. Sew several times.
Once finished with the nose, use the same yarn, and sew a line through the middle of the muzzle. I began the line at the magic ring hole.
With Black yarn, sew several times on Row 4 on either side of the muzzle to make the eyes. Once finished, use White yarn to sew an eye detail.
Sew the arms at an angle a row below the muzzle.
Sew the tail to the back piece.
Put both pieces, back and front, together making sure they align. Sl st through both pieces.
When you are almost finished closing the piece, insert stuffing. Do not stuff too much. You only need to stuff a little to make sure the bear is not completely flat. Finish closing the piece. Weave in the ends or secure the ends by tying knots and hiding them inside the body.

10. Using the whip stitch, sew the ears in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.

If you have used Drops Muskat wosrted weight, your bear will be about 2.5 inches tall. If you have used Lizbeth 20 with a 1.25 mm hook (for the smaller bear in the pictures at the beginning of the post), your bear will be about an inch tall. Please note that the finished size depends not only on the materials used, but also on your tension.

Happy Crochet!

Apple Muffins (Cake)

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ 2 Comments

This blog is for crochet mostly. But I also love baking. So I decided to share with you a few of my favorite recipes.

I am not a professional baker. I am just typing these recipes the way my grandma and my mom have written them in their notebooks. I hope you like them.

The first recipe comes from one of my grandma’s friends. I made this apple cake for the first time when I was a kid. My mom used to make it a lot too. It is truly a family favorite.

The only thing I have changed is the amount of sugar. I only add 1/2 cup sugar so I can use the cake (or muffins) for breakfast. To me, they are sweet enough that way.

Ingredients:

4 eggs

3/4 cup white sugar (I only add 1/2 cup)

1/2 cup vegetable oil

4 apples (medium size)*

2 tblsp cinnamon

2 cups flour (scoop with the measuring cup and level with a butter knife)

1 tsp baking soda

Optional: walnuts and/or dried cranberries

*You can use whatever apples you have. I have made these with just granny smith, or just fuji, golden delicious, or even a mix. The muffins always come out delicious.

Instructions:

Heat oven to 350F and spray your muffin tin or cake pan with cooking spray.
Beat eggs and sugar until white.
In the meantime, grade the apples.
Add the oil and graded apples.
Add the cinnamon, flour, and soda and beat until well mixed.
Add chopped walnuts and/or cranberries.
Bake at 350F until a toothpick comes out clean. If you are making muffins, it takes about 15 minutes to bake.

NOTE: I have only made this recipe the way I have written it here. I don’t know if you can substitute the oil for something else, or the flour, etc. You can try different substitutions if you’d like, but I don’t know what would work and what wouldn’t.

ENJOY!

International Amigurumi Day, April 25th

Featured ~ dianichka1 ~ 1 Comment

When Marcia Scarpelli contacted me and told me about International Amigurumi Day, I jumped up and down at the idea.

She and her friend, Bianca Moraes, had been researching the history of the International Day of Crochet and found out that someone just started it because they wanted to. Well, Marcia and Bianca wanted to create an International Day to celebrate Amigurumi and here we are…

April 25th is now the official day to celebrate the wonderful art of amigurumi! And there are so many ways to celebrate!!!

Here are some fun ideas:

Buy that amigurumi pattern that has been sitting in your cart forever. You know you want it! And April 25th is just the perfect day to get it.
Get together with some other amigurumi lovers to crochet, share ami stories, etc.
Create a collage of your favorite amis (you may want to make several collages; if you are like me, you have made hundreds of cute amis and you LOVE them all equally).
Start a new ami project.
Finish an ami project you have started ages ago.
Write a post about why you love amigurumi.
Introduce someone to amigurumi. Spread the LOVE!
Display that ami collection you have! Show the world your love for amigurumi and your amazing talent!
Learn a new technique! Advanced or beginners, there is always a lot to learn!
Don’t forget to use the tags #amigurumiday #diadoamigurumi #amiday on social media to spread the news!

For more fun ideas on how to celebrate and a little more information about this holiday and amigurumi, head over to Sweet Softies. Jade wrote a wonderful and very informative post about this super special holiday!

Happy Amigurumi Day!!! 🙂