These tiny strawberries are very quick to make. You need under an hour to finish one (I am slow at crochet; some of you might need less than 30 minutes). But they are super cute! I am planning on making at least 10 and putting them in a small favor jar (the one in the picture is 3.4 oz).
Materials:
Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread – red, green, and white
Clover Amour crochet hook, 1.5 mm
Stuffing
Sewing needle
Hot glue gun (or tacky glue if you prefer)
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
st – stitch
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
trbl – treble crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease (invisible)
Strawberry Pattern:
Crochet in spiral.
Round 1: with red 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Rounds 4 – 5: sc around – 18 sts
Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 7: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Rounds 8 – 10: sc around – 30 sts
Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 12: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Start stuffing the strawberry. You will need to stuff more before finishing the last round.
Round 13: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Round 14: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off and finish off. Insert the beginning and end tail through the same stitch, tie a knot, and stuff the ends inside the strawberry.
Leaves Pattern:
Round 1: with green, 10 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 10 sts
Round 2: *in same stitch (1 hdc, 1 trbl, ch 1, and 1 hdc), sl st in next* repeat 5 times
Fasten off and tie a knot securing the beginning and end tail. Set aside.
Stem Pattern:
With green, ch 6
1 sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st in back bump of each ch – 5 sts
Fasten off.
Insert the ends of the stem through the mr hole of the leaves. Tie knots with the ends of the leaves and the stem and cut excess thread.
Glue to the top of the strawberry. Do not glue down the tips of the leaves.
OPTIONAL: Use white to sew small Vs around the strawberry.
And your tiny strawberry is finished! Now make a whole bunch more! These are FUN.
This Baby Penguin pattern happened by accident. I was actually trying to make a little puppy but somewhere in the process, I decided that the puppy looks more like a penguin. I am loving this little guy! He is super cute and very, very quick to make. There is almost no sewing which to me is always a plus!
This is a free version of the pattern. If you would like a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive PDF file could be downloaded from my Etsy or Ravelryshops. The premium version also includes more step by step pictures as well as a pattern for a tiny Santa hat to go with your little Baby Penguin.
MATERIALS:
Thread:
DMC Baroque size 10, white – body
Aunt Lydia’s size 10, color of your choice – coat and flippers
Aunt Lydia’s size 10, yellow – beak
Aunt Lydia’s size 10, light pink – cheeks
Hook: 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
Plastic eyes, 2 mm (or use black thread to sew the eyes)
Stuffing
Sewing needle and scissors
Tacky glue
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR – magic ring Trbl – treble crochet
Ch – chain Inc – increase
St(es) – stitch(es) Dec – decrease
Sl st – slip stitch
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
NOTES:
Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
This doll is crocheted with the RS (right side).
When decreasing (sc2tog), use the invisible decrease technique.
PATTERN
BODY
Round 1: with white 6 sc in mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Rounds 5 – 6: sc around – 24 sts
Round 7: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 8: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts
Rounds 9 – 11: sc around – 36 sts
Round 12: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts
Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts
NOTE: Stuff the body well. You may need to stuff more before finishing the last round.
Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 15: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts
Round 16: 6 dec – 6 sts
Fasten off. Finish off and secure stitches. Set aside.
COAT
Do not cut the tail from the magic ring. We will need it later.
Round 1: with pink 6 sc in mr – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts
Round 5: sc around – 24 sts
NOTE:We will start crocheting in rows, but the count will continue from where we stopped with the rounds.
Row 6: 1 sc in 16 sts; ch 1 and turn – 16 sts
Row 7: (3 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 20 sts
Row 8: (4 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts
Rows 9 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts
Row 12: sc in each st do not turn but continue up the side
Sc 5 sts evenly spaced
1 sc in last worked st of Round 5. See Picture A.
1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next, 1 trbl in next, 1 hdc in next, 1 sc in next 3 sts. You should have 9 sts across the top.
Continue down the side. Sc 5 sts evenly spaced. SeePicture B
NOTE:We will go back to rounds. The count continues from where we stopped with the rows.
Insert the beginning tail of the coat through the magic ring of the body and out through another stitch.
Then place the coat on the body and continue with the next round.
Round 13: 1 sc in next 24 sts, ch 8 and 1 sc in 1st st of Round 13 (that counts as the 1st st of Round 14) – 32 sts See Picture C
Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 15: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts
Round 16: 8 dec – 8 sts
Fasten off and finish off.
Secure the stitches by inserting the beginning and ending tails through the same stitch, tying a knot, and stuffing it inside the body.
FLIPPERS (x 2)
With pink, 8 hdc in mr
Do not join to other side. Leave a tail for sewing. Fasten off and set aside.
ASSEMBLY:
Using the yellow thread, sew the beak starting with the treble stitch from the coat and going one round down on the body. I sewed a few times.
Glue the plastic eyes with tacky glue a round below the coat and 2 sts away from the beak.
With pink thread, sew twice directly under each eye to create the cheeks.
Sew the flippers 2 sts from the edge of the coat, about a round under the round where you glued the eyes. The flippers are sewn with the wrong side facing out. Picture D shows the left flipper. When you finish sewing, insert both ends through the same stitch of the coat, tie a knot, hide the excess thread inside the coat.
NOTE: For the right flipper, weave the ending tail through a few loops to get to the other end of flipper. That way you can sew it to the penguin with the wrong side facing out. See Picture E
OPTIONAL: Make it an ornament by inserting a thin ribbon through the top of the penguin.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
If you have used the materials suggested, your baby penguin should be about 1 inch (about 2.5 cm) tall.
Thank you for visiting my blog! I hope you enjoyed this pattern.
Let me know in the comments section below. I would love to hear from you!
A while ago I had this idea to create an autumn elf pattern. Once I made the doll, however, I started adding to it – a dress, a shrug, a hat, hair… Then came the wagon. Of course, the little doll needed a wagon. How else would she gather acorns and leaves?
The entire pattern set which also includes an adorable squirrel friend (Mr. Chatters) will be available in my shops tomorrow.
But today, I wanted to share with you the pattern of the little red wagon. I hope you like it.
MATERIALS:
Thread: red, black, and dark brown (very small piece of the the handle of the wagon
I used Oren Bayan cotton perle 12 but you can use any size thread or yarn that you like. The size should be the same size that you used to make the doll. A good substitute for Oren Bayan thread is Lizbeth 40.
Crochet hook – 1 mm
A piece of plastic or cardboard
Hot glue gun
Wire (optional)
Sewing needle
ABBREVIATIONS:
MR
– magic ring
Sc
– single crochet
Ch
– chain
BLO
– back loop only
Hdc – half double crochet
Inc – increase
Sl st – slip stitch
Wheels (x 8):
Round 1: with
black thread, mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring;
sl st to join and
ch 2 – 8 sts
Round 2: in the
BLO 2 hdc in each st; sl st to join – 16 sts
Fasten off.
With the right
side out, sew the wheels two by two to make them thicker.
Weave in the ends and set aside.
Wagon:
With
the red thread, make two bottom pieces. When you finish the first one, fasten
off and weave in the ends. Then begin the second piece.
Ch
19
Row
1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until end of row; ch 1 and turn –
18 sts
Rows
2 – 11: 1 sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 18 sts
Row
12: 1 sc until the end of row – 18 sts
Finish
off the first piece.
Make
the second piece but do not fasten off.
Trace the piece on a piece of plastic or cardboard and cut out the piece. Trim so it will fit between the two crocheted pieces of the wagon we just made.
Put the two crocheted pieces together. Chain 1 without turning. Continue crocheting going down on the side. 1 sc in each space. When you get to the corner, ch 1 and continue crocheting along the bottom of both pieces.
When
you get to the next corner, ch 1 again and go up the side of the two pieces.
When you get to the corner (you will have 3 of the sides crocheted together), insert the plastic piece inside.
Ch 1 and continue crocheting in each stitch to close.
When
you get to the last corner, sl st to join the round and ch 1.
That’s
the end of Round 1. In this round, you should have 64 stitches (this includes
the 4 chains you made at each corner of the bottom of the wagon.
Round 2: in BLO 1 sc in each stitch
and chain; sl st to join and ch 1 – 64 sts
Rounds 2 – 4: in both loops 1 sc in
each stitch; sl st to join and ch 1 – 64 sts
Round 5: 1 sc in each stitch; sl st to
join – 64 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
In the 5 middle front loops of the wagon (either one of the shorter sides), we will create a little part to which a piece of thread will be attached to pull the wagon. Insert the hook in one of the loops and 1 sc.
1 sc in the next 4 loops; ch 1 and turn
With a sewing needle, insert the tail through the front loop (here you made the 1st sc of the first row). Secure the stitches.
Insert thread through the brown part and tie a knot. Tie the other end too to create a loop so the doll can “hold” the end of the wagon’s handle.
Then with the glue gun, glue the wheels to the sides of the wagon.
Toadstools are the cutest! So when I was asked by a customer to make a larger toadstool container, I couldn’t say “no.” But don’t be deceived by the word “larger.” This adorable container is still very small with a diameter of 2 inches and a height – about 2.5 inches.
Materials:
Thread – Lizbeth 10: white and red
Crochet hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
Sewing needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease (use invisible decrease)
Pattern:
Start with the base or the container. Use Lizbeth 10 white thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Keep your stitches tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts
Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts
Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts
Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts
Rounds 11 – 23: sc around – 80 sts
Do not chain 1 after Round 23.
Round 24: sl st around – 80 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
We will make the top of the toadstool with red thread. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.
Keep your stitches tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts
Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 48 sts
Round 9: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts
Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x 8 – 64 sts
Round 11: (7 sc, inc) x 8 – 72 sts
Rounds 12 – 15: sc around – 72 sts
Round 16: (8 sc, inc) x 8 – 80 sts
Round 17: (9 sc, inc) x 8 – 88 sts
Round 18: (10 sc, inc) x 8 – 96 sts
Rounds 19 – 24: sc around – 96 sts
Round 25: (10 sc, dec) x 8 – 88 sts
Round 26: (9 sc, dec) x 8 – 80 sts
Do not chain 1 after Round 26.
Round 27: sl st around – 80 sts
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Once you finish both parts, you can create the spots of the toadstool either by cross stitching them or by sewing hashtags. See my miniature toadstool container pattern for an example: MINIATURE TOADSTOOL.
I chose to cross stitch the spots. I made a few different sizes. See picture below.
Your container is complete! You can use it to store small items such as safety pins, paper clips, stitch markers, buttons, etc. Or you can use it as a doll house for a small doll.
Ce modèle a été traduit en Français par Sylvie Conil.
Alors, l’autre jour j’ai fait un mignon petit elfe (qui fais seulement 2cm de haut) puis après, j’ai pensé que je devais à présent lui faire une petite maison rien qu’à lui. J’avais imaginé faire, depuis longtemps, une petite maison champignon pour une poupée et là c’était l’occasion idéale. Une minuscule petite maison parfaite pour mon micro elfe (base sur mon modèle intitulé “ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN’’). Mais bien sûr vous pouvez aussi vous en servir de coffre à bijoux, y mettre une bague, des petits boutons, ou encore une paire de boucle d’oreilles, des perles, etc… Ou juste vous en servir comme décoration sur votre bureau. Trop fun!
En tous cas, si vous décidez de faire le micro elfe base sur mon modèle “one inch doll pattern’’, utilisez le fil Lizbeth 80, avec un crochet 0.75 mm de la marque Clover Amour. Vous trouverez en note après les explications de la maison champignon, toutes les infos pour réaliser ce mignon petit elfe.
Matériel :
Fil Lizbeth 20 : rouge et blanc
Crochet taille 10 dans la marque « Boye », c’est-à-dire, un crochet en 1,3 mm
Aiguille à coudre
Ciseaux
Abréviations:
CM – cercle magique
ms – maille serrée
mc – maille coulée
aug – augmenter
dim – diminuer
Explications :
Bas
Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en blanc. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.
Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms dans le cercle – 8 m
Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m
Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m
Rang 4 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m
Rang 5 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m
Rangs 6 – 11 : 40 ms
Après le Rang 11 joignez par 1mc (qui comptera comme la 1ère m du rang suivant) mais ne faîtes pas de ml.
Rang 12 : 39 mc
Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.
Dessus
Commencez avec la Lizbeth 20, en rouge. Joignez chaque rang par 1mc, puis 1ml. Crochetez serré.
Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 1 ml, 8 ms – 8 m
Rang 2 : 8 aug – 16 m
Rang 3 : (1 ms, aug) x 8 – 24 m
Rangs 4 – 5 : 24 ms
Rang 6 : (2 ms, aug) x 8 – 32 m
Rang 7 : 32 ms
Rang 8 : (3 ms, aug) x 8 – 40 m
Rang 9 : (4 ms, aug) x 8 – 48 m
Rang 10 : (5 ms, aug) x 8 – 56 m
Rangs 11 – 14 : 56 ms
Rang 15 : (5 ms, dim) x 8 – 48 m
Après le Rang 15, joignez avec 1 mc (qui comptera comme la 1ère m du rang suivant) mais pas de ml.
Rang 16 : 47 ms
Arrêtez le travail et rentrez le fil.
Optionnel : brodez des petits “hashtags” sur le dessus du champignon avec du fil blanc DMC coton perle 12. Après chaque hashtag, coupez le fil et faîtes un nœud. Coupez l’excédent de fil et ajoutez un point de colle pour le fixer de façon plus propre. Vous pouvez aussi rentrer les fils pour les cacher (mais c’est trop de travail pour moi ici ;)).
Et Voila! Vous avez terminé la petite maison champignon.
MICRO ELFE (quelques astuces utiles) :
J’utilise une loupe pour voir les points de façon plus nette. Ils sont vraiment minuscules ! De Plus, utiliser la loupe vous permettra de faire des points plus serrés et consistants.
Utilisez un petit bâton (style cure-dent, baguette) pour rembourrer la poupée avec la fibre polyester. C’est plus facile ainsi pour les mini poupées.
S’il vous est difficile d’utiliser le fil Lizbeth 80, essayer le Lizbeth 40 (DMC coton perle 12) avec un crochet en 0.9 mm ou encore le Lizbeth 20 avec un crochet 1.25 mm. Mais alors, utilisez plutôt pour faire la maison, le fil Aunt Lydia’s 10 avec un crochet 1.5 mm ou le Lizbeth 10 (avec le même crochet).
Chapeau de l’Elfe :
Utilisez le même type de fil et de crochet que pour la poupée (modèle ICI). Joignez chaque rang avec 1 mc et 2 ml.
Rang 1 : dans 1 CM, 2ml, 6 demi-br dans le cercle – 6 m
Rang 2 : (2 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 8 m
Rang 3 : (3 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 10 m
Rang 4 : (4 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 12 m
Rang 5 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 14 m
Rang 6 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 16 m
Rang 7 : (7 demi-br, aug) x 2 – 18 m
Rang 8 : (5 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 21 m
Rang 9 : (6 demi-br, aug) x 3 – 24 m
Rangs 10 – 11 : 24 demi-br
Ajoutez un Rang supplémentaire de 24 demi-br si le chapeau vous semble trop petit. Enfilez le chapeau à votre lutin, ajustez le pour qu’il soit à la place désirée. Puis faîtes un rang de mc en le laissant sur la tête de la poupée (les mc sont seulement sur le tour du chapeau, pas sur la tête de la poupée). Le rand de mc resserrera assez le chapeau pour le maintenir en place afin qu’il ne tombe pas de la tête de votre lutin. Une fois le rang terminé, arrêter le travail et cousez le chapeau sur la tête de la poupée en quelques points (pour éviter qu’il ne tombe sur les yeux). Rentrez les fils.
A présent votre petit elfe est prêt pour rentrer dans sa petite maison!
So, the other day I made this cute little elf (only about 7/8 of an inch) and then I thought that I should make a house for it. I have been wanting to make a mushroom house for a doll for a long time now and this seemed like the perfect opportunity. The teeny little house is perfect for the micro elf (based on my ONE INCH DOLL PATTERN). But you can also put a ring, some small buttons, maybe small earrings, beads, etc. Or just use it as a cute decor on your desk. How fun!
By the way, if you decide to make the micro elf based on my one inch doll pattern, use Lizbeth 80 thread with 0.75 mm Clover Amour hook. See notes after the toadstool house pattern for more info on how to make the cute elf.
Materials:
Lizbeth 20: red and white
Crochet hook, size 10 (Boye)
Sewing needle
Scissors
Abbreviations:
mr – magic ring
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
inc – increase
dec – decrease
Pattern:
Bottom
Start with Lizbeth 20, white thread. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Rounds 6 – 11: 40 sc
After Round 11 join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.
Round 12: 39 sl st
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Top
Start with Lizbeth 20, red. Join each round with a sl st and ch 1. Crochet tight.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Rounds 4 – 5: 24 sc
Round 6: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Round 7: 32 sc
Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts
Round 9: (4 sc, inc) x 8 – 48 sts
Round 10: (5 sc, inc) x 8 – 56 sts
Rounds 11 – 14: 56 sc
Round 15: (5 sc, dec) x 8 – 48 sts
After Round 15, join with a sl st (counts as 1st st of next round) but do not chain 1.
Round 16: 47 sc
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Optional: Sew hashtags to the top part of the mushroom with DMC cotton perle 12 thread. After each hashtag, cut the thread and make a knot. Cut excess thread and glue down the ends for a more cleaner look. You may also weave in the ends (but that seems like too much work to me 😉 ).
And voila! You made a cute little mushroom container.
MICRO ELF (some helpful tips):
I used a magnifying glass to help me see the stitches better. They are tiny! Plus, looking through the magnifying glass will help you have tighter and more consistent stitches.
Use polyester batting to stuff the doll. It is much easier to stuff that micro doll with the batting.
If you are having a hard time using Lizbeth 80 thread, try Lizbeth 40 (DMC cotton perle 12) with 0.9 mm hook or maybe even Lizbeth 20 with 1.25 mm hook. Then just make the house with Aunt Lydia’s 10 and 1.5 mm hook or Lizbeth 10 (same hook).
Elf Hat:
Use the same type and hook you did to make the doll (pattern HERE). Join each round with a sl st and ch 2.
Round 1: mr, ch 2, 6 hdc in the ring – 6 sts
Round 2: (2 hdc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts
Round 3: (3 hdc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts
Round 4: (4 hdc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts
Round 5: (5 hdc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts
Round 6: (6 hdc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts
Round 7: (7 hdc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts
Round 8: (5 hdc, inc) x 3 – 21 sts
Round 9: (6 hdc, inc) x 3 – 24 sts
Rounds 10 – 11: 24 hdc
Add one more round of 24 hdc if the hat seems too small. Put the hat on the doll and adjust it to where you would like it to stay. Slip stitch around while the hat is on the doll (sl st only the hat, not the head of the doll). The slip stitch round will make the hat tight enough so it will not fall off the head of the doll. Once you finish that round, fasten off and sew the hat to the head in a few places (to make sure it does not fall over the eyes of the doll). Weave in the ends.
I knew I wanted to make some sort of a necklace house and a doll that would go inside. It took a while to start working on that project and when I did eventually start working on it, it took a few weeks to figure out the house design. I almost gave up. I am glad I didn’t because this new pattern is one of my favorites.
And to celebrate the release of the Tiny People in a Tiny House pattern (and the fact that it was published in the HHM printed issue), I created an extra outfit. I wanted it to be simple but to have more texture. So, I played around with the hdc stitch. Fun!
This outfit is specifically design for my newest dolls (see picture below).
Note: I have designed this dress to be permanently sewn to the doll. If you would like it to be removable, crochet in rows until you finished Round 2 (where you will have 32 sts). After that Round (but you will be working it in rows), you can start joining rounds. This should leave you enough opening in the back to be able to put on and take off the outfit. But always measure on your doll to make sure the outfit fits just right.
Pattern:
HAT
Chain 17
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook; 14 hdc; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts
Rows 2 – 21: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts
Row 22: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 1 and turn
Put the 1st and last row together and sc them together.
Leave a long tail for sewing and FO.
Insert needle through each row at the edge of the hat.
