Baby Animals (Crochet Pattern)

Baby Panda and Baby Bear were a special request from my daughter.

Because they are only 1.5 inches tall (in sitting position), they fit perfectly in her dollhouse and she loves playing with them over and over and over.

The pattern is a quick and easy one to make. I used Copper for Baby Bear and White and Black for Baby Panda, but Curio has so many beautiful colors that you can make a whole collection of colorful baby bears. If you sew the eyes with Curio Black thread instead of using plastic eyes, these bears made in all of Curio colors can be used to teach little ones colors and counting and sorting and make math more fun!

You can download the PDF file here for free: BABY ANIMALS

MATERIALS:

  1. Thread – Curio size 10 (various colors)
    1. Natural – face and hands
    1. Copper – bear costume
    1. Black and White – panda costume
    1. Pistachio/Tea Rose – binky
  2. Plastic eyes – 2 mm
  3. Hook: Clover Amour, 1.50 mm
  4. Stuffing
  5. Tacky glue
  6. Cotton swab and blush

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring                                                  Inc – increase

Ch – chain                                                             Dec – decrease

St(es) – stitch(es)                                                  Sc – single crochet

Sl st – slip stitch                                                   Hdc – half double crochet

HEAD

Join rounds with a slip st and chain 1.

Round 1: with ecru 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Rounds 5 – 10: sc around – 24 sts (6 rounds)

Round 11: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 12: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Stuff the head.

Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts

BODY

Change color depending on animal costume. Continue crocheting in spiral.

If you are making a baby panda, use black thread for Rounds 14 – 17. Then change color to white to finish the body.

Rounds 14: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 15: (2 sc, inc) x 4 – 16 sts

Rounds 16 – 17: sc around – 16 sts (2 rounds)

Round 18: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts

Round 19: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts

Rounds 20 – 23: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)

Round 24: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 25: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Stuff the body.

Round 26: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off and secure the stitches. Set aside.

ARMS (x 2):

Round 1: with ecru 5 sc in a mr – 5 sts

Round 2: (inc, sc) x 2, inc in last st – 8 sts

Round 3: sc around – 8 sts

Change color depending on animal costume.

Round 4: (2 sc, dec) x 2 – 6 sts

Rounds 5 – 9: sc around

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

LEGS (x 2):

Use the color for animal costume.

Round 1: (2 sc, 3 hdc, 2 sc) in a mr – 7 sts

Round 2: sc inc in 2 sts, hdc inc in 3 sts, sc inc in 2 sts – 14 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: 14 sts (3 rounds)

Round 6: 1 sc in 3 sts, 4 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 10 sts

Stuff the foot.

Round 7: 1 sc in 3 sts, 2 sc dec, 1 sc in 3 sts – 8 sts

Rounds 8 – 10: sc around – 8 sts (3 rounds)

Stuff the leg lightly.

Round 11: 4 dec – 4 sts

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

EARS (x 2):

Use the color for animal costume.

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: sc around – 12 sts (3 rounds)

Round 6: sl st around – 12 sts

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

TAIL:

Use the color for animal costume.

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 12 sts (2 rounds)

Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

HAT:

With animal color

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts

Rounds 6 – 10: sc around – 30 sts (5 rounds)

Round 11: 1 sl st in next 2 sts

BINKY:

Leave a long tail before you begin.

Round 1: with pistachio 8 sc in a mr

Sl st to join and fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:

Glue the eyes between Rounds 8 and 9, about 5 stitches apart.

Use the eyes as a guide when sewing the legs and arms.

The legs are sewn between Rounds 22 and 23. Turn the doll to one side. The very back of the leg should be about 6 stitches away from the eye (the foot would be closer to the animal’s tummy that way). Sew several times and in several places so the leg is securely attached to the body. Then repeat with the other leg.

Sew the arms on Rounds 15 and 16. Turn the body to one side (just like we did with the legs). The back end of the arm should be about 4 stitches away from the eye. I sewed the back of the arms to the body and then I sewed the “hands” to the belly, so they stay snugged.

Position the hat so it’s about 4 rounds above the eyes and sew it to the head.

Using the whip stitch, sew the ears on Rounds 2 through 5 of the hat. Once you finish, wet the ears and press the middle with the back of a metal hook. This will give the ears a nice shape.

Sew the tail at the back of the bear, between the legs. Before finishing, insert a little stuffing.

Before attaching the binky to the face, insert the mr tail through the mr.

Insert the needle through a front loop on any stitch on the right side of the piece. Refer to the picture on the right.

Before pulling the needle all the way through the stitch, wrap the thread around it 10 times. Carefully pull the needle through the thread and the stitch. Then insert the needle back through the mr and pull.

Attach the binky to the face, a round below the eyes. I used tacky glue in addition to sewing it to the face.

Use a cotton swab and blush to add a little pink to the cheeks.

HAPPY CROCHETING!!!

Baby Penguin

This Baby Penguin pattern happened by accident. I was actually trying to make a little puppy but somewhere in the process, I decided that the puppy looks more like a penguin. I am loving this little guy! He is super cute and very, very quick to make. There is almost no sewing which to me is always a plus!

This is a free version of the pattern. If you would like a downloadable or printable version of this pattern, an inexpensive PDF file could be downloaded from my Etsy or Ravelry shops. The premium version also includes more step by step pictures as well as a pattern for a tiny Santa hat to go with your little Baby Penguin.

MATERIALS:

  1. Thread:
    1. DMC Baroque size 10, white – body
    1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10, color of your choice – coat and flippers
    1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10, yellow – beak
    1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10, light pink – cheeks
  2. Hook: 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
  3. Plastic eyes, 2 mm (or use black thread to sew the eyes)
  4. Stuffing
  5. Sewing needle and scissors
  6. Tacky glue

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring                                                                    Trbl – treble crochet

Ch – chain                                                                               Inc – increase

St(es) – stitch(es)                                                                    Dec – decrease

Sl st – slip stitch                                                                    

Sc – single crochet                                                                

Hdc – half double crochet    

NOTES:

  1. Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
  2. This doll is crocheted with the RS (right side).
  3. When decreasing (sc2tog), use the invisible decrease technique.

                              

PATTERN

BODY

Round 1: with white 6 sc in mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Rounds 5 – 6: sc around – 24 sts

Round 7: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 8: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts

Rounds 9 – 11: sc around – 36 sts

Round 12: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts

NOTE: Stuff the body well. You may need to stuff more before finishing the last round.

Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 15: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Round 16: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off. Finish off and secure stitches. Set aside.

COAT

Do not cut the tail from the magic ring. We will need it later.

Round 1: with pink 6 sc in mr – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 5: sc around – 24 sts

NOTE: We will start crocheting in rows, but the count will continue from where we stopped with the rounds.

Row 6: 1 sc in 16 sts; ch 1 and turn – 16 sts

Row 7: (3 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 20 sts

Row 8: (4 sc, inc) x 4; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts

Rows 9 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 24 sts

Row 12: sc in each st do not turn but continue up the side

Sc 5 sts evenly spaced

1 sc in last worked st of Round 5. See Picture A.

1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next, 1 trbl in next, 1 hdc in next, 1 sc in next 3 sts. You should have 9 sts across the top.

Continue down the side. Sc 5 sts evenly spaced. See Picture B

NOTE: We will go back to rounds. The count continues from where we stopped with the rows.

Insert the beginning tail of the coat through the magic ring of the body and out through another stitch.

Then place the coat on the body and continue with the next round.

Round 13: 1 sc in next 24 sts, ch 8 and 1 sc in 1st st of Round 13 (that counts as the 1st st of Round 14) – 32 sts See Picture C

Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 15: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Round 16: 8 dec – 8 sts

Fasten off and finish off.

Secure the stitches by inserting the beginning and ending tails through the same stitch, tying a knot, and stuffing it inside the body.

FLIPPERS (x 2)

With pink, 8 hdc in mr

Do not join to other side. Leave a tail for sewing. Fasten off and set aside.

ASSEMBLY:

  1. Using the yellow thread, sew the beak starting with the treble stitch from the coat and going one round down on the body. I sewed a few times.
  2. Glue the plastic eyes with tacky glue a round below the coat and 2 sts away from the beak.
  3. With pink thread, sew twice directly under each eye to create the cheeks.
  4. Sew the flippers 2 sts from the edge of the coat, about a round under the round where you glued the eyes. The flippers are sewn with the wrong side facing out. Picture D shows the left flipper. When you finish sewing, insert both ends through the same stitch of the coat, tie a knot, hide the excess thread inside the coat.

NOTE: For the right flipper, weave the ending tail through a few loops to get to the other end of flipper. That way you can sew it to the penguin with the wrong side facing out. See Picture E

OPTIONAL: Make it an ornament by inserting a thin ribbon through the top of the penguin.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:

If you have used the materials suggested, your baby penguin should be about 1 inch (about 2.5 cm) tall.

Thank you for visiting my blog! I hope you enjoyed this pattern.

Let me know in the comments section below. I would love to hear from you!

HAPPY CROCHETING!

Little Miss Turtle (Free Crochet Pattern)

I made a promise a long time ago to someone that I will write up the pattern of this turtle and post it for free on my blog. That was years ago. Recently I discovered that I had lost the pattern for the original turtle that I made at least 4 years ago. So, I decided to not waste any more time and create a new one and this time write the pattern, take the pictures, and post it. And here we are! I hope you enjoy it.

COPYRIGHT: This pattern is intended for PERSONAL USE only. You may not sell or share the pattern in any form, or distribute it (full or partially), or post it on the Internet, or translate it into other languages.

You may sell the finished products created from this pattern. Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘PinkMouseBoutique’ pattern and also include a link to my website (www.pinkmouseboutique.com).

The items you sell based on this pattern must feature only your own photographs. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.

To download the PDF follow the link here: LITTLE MISS TURTLE

MATERIALS:

  1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10:
    1. Ecru
    2. Variegated thread
    3. Black (for eyes)
  2. Crochet hook, 1.5 mm (Clover Amour)
  3. Stuffing
  4. Plastic eyes (2 mm) – optional
  5. Clear tacky glue (if using 2 mm eye)
  6. Sewing needle

NOTE: For the step by step photos, I used Loops&Threads CAPRI yarn with a 3.75 mm crochet hook.

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring

Sc – single crochet

Ch – chain

BLO – back loop only

FLO – front loop only

Trbl – treble crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – decrease

Sl st – slip stitch

RS – right side

PART 1: Shell – Top and Bottom

TOP SHELL

Use variegated thread of your choice.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 5 – 7: 28 sc (3 rounds)

Round 8: in FLO (sk 1, 3 trbl in next, sk 1, sl st in next) repeat until the end of this round

You should have 7 shells at the end of Round 8.

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

BOTTOM SHELL

Use ecru thread.

Follow instructions of top shell until Round 4.

Round 5: 1 sl st in next 2 sts; end the round here

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

PART 2: Head and Legs

HEAD

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Rounds 3 – 5: 16 sc (3 rounds)

Round 6: 3 sc, 5 dec, 3 sc – 11 sts

Start stuffing the head. Stuff firmly. You will need

to stuff a little more after Round 7.

Round 7: 4 sc, sc3tog (dec), 4 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 8 – 10: 9 sc (3 rounds)

Fasten off.

EYES: For the little turtle I used 2 mm plastic eyes. After I finished the head, I glued them on Round 4, 7 to 8 stitches apart using tacky glue.

For the yarn turtle, I used black yarn to sew the eyes. The positioning of the eyes is the same.

Pull the two tails through the same stitch at the back of the head (neck area). We will use those later to sew the neck to the shell so the turtle will stay up straight.

LEGS x 4

Use ecru thread.

Crochet in continuous rounds.

Round 1: (RS) mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 6 sc

Fold the leg and crochet through the front and back stitch closing the leg (see picture). You should have 3 stitches left.

Fasten off.

Pull the yarn tails through the same stitch. Make a knot and cut the excess ends. Stuff the rest inside the legs.

PART 3: Assembly

We will start by sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell of the turtle.

Use the tail from the bottom shell you left earlier.

Refer to the diagram below when sewing the legs and head to the bottom shell.

When sewing the pieces together, the RS of the bottom shell should be turned towards you.

Refer to the pictures below.

………………RIGHT SIDE (RS)…………………………………….WRONG SIDE (WS)…………..

Sew in the FLO. The BLO will be used to sew the bottom and top shells together.

To sew the legs and head to the bottom shell, we will use the long tail we left after finishing the bottom shell. When you are not sewing body parts, sew through the stitches of the bottom shell to carry the thread. See pictures below.

Start by sewing one of the legs. You will need to sew the three stitches of the leg to only two BLO stitches of the bottom shell.

BLO stitches are left empty (see picture below). We will use them later to sew the bottom and top shells together.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the head. You will be attaching 4 or 5 stitches of the front of the head (neck area) to only 3 stitches of the shell. Make sure the head is centered. Refer to the diagram on Page 6 and to the pictures below.

NOTE: The back four stitches of the head (neck area) will be attached to the top shell later.

Sew around for 2 stitches to carry the thread and then attach the second leg the same way you did the first.

Sew around for 4 stitches to carry the thread and attach the third leg.

Sew around for five stitches to carry the thread and sew the last leg.

Weave in the ends.

Sew the top and bottom shells together using the empty loops you left earlier.

Stuff the shell well before finishing.

NOTE: If you are making your turtle with yarn, make sure you are not over stuffing. If you over stuff the body, the turtle’s belly (bottom shell) will not stay flat and the turtle will not be able to stand straight on its own.

Sew the neck to the shell.

Use water to straighten the details you made earlier for the top shell.

And voila! You have made a tiny turtle!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know in the comments below.

HAPPY CROCHET!

Amigurumi Polar Bear

It’s almost Christmas and I wanted to create a tiny design that anyone can make. This little polar bear is super special. He is tiny and adorable and comes with his very own… Hmm… I think I will keep that a secret until next week. 

NOTE: This pattern is designed by Diana Moore from PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE. This pattern is available for free only on my blog pinkmouseboutique.com. If you see the pattern and pictures posted on another website, please let me know. Thank you!

MATERIALS:

  1. Worsted weight yarn:
    1. white – for the bear 
    2. red – scarf
    3. black – eyes and nose
  2. Clover Amour crochet hook, 3.25 mm
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Stuffing
  5. Glue gun
  6. Snowflake button (optional)

ABBREVIATIONS:

mr – magic ring                                              dec – decrease

ch – chain                                                         inc – increase

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

NOTES:

  1. Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
  2. Use the invisible decrease technique when decreasing. 

PATTERN:

We will begin by making the head, body, and legs (in one piece).

Start with white yarn.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: 24 sc

Round 8: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Round 9: (sc inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 10 – 13: 24 sts

Stuff the head and body well.

The legs will be made with 9 sts on each side of the body. The 6 sts (3 in the front and 3 in the back will be sewn later).

Leg 1:

Continue from where you stopped with the body.

Round 1: 8 sc, sk 15 sts, 1 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 9 sc

Leave a long tail and fasten off.

Leg 2:

Leave 6 sts in the middle for sewing (3 in the back and 3 in the front of the body). Join yarn to one of the 9 sts you left for the 2nd leg. Continue following the instructions for the first leg. 

Once you finish both legs, stuff them well, finish them off and secure the stitches.

Face:

Sew the eyes on Round 5, 5 stitches apart.

Sew the nose in the middle 3 stitches between the eyes. Then sew one long line starting from the middle of the nose and going down 2 rounds.

Arms (x 2):

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 5 sc in the ring – 5 sts

Rounds 2 – 5: 5 sc around

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Ears (x 2):

mr, ch 1, 5 hdc in the ring

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Tail:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 sc

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Scarf:

Use red yarn or any color of your choice.

Ch 66

Fasten off.

Assembly:

Sew the arms on Round 8 (or 9) of the body. Sew the tail in the back a round above the legs. Sew the ears on top of the head (a round below the magic ring). Using a cotton swab and blush, make pink cheeks. NOTE: Cover the body with a piece of fabric so the blush doesn’t stain it.

Fold the scarf in half and find the middle. With the glue gun, glue the middle of the scarf to the front of the bear (Round 9).

You will wrap it around a few times while gluing in a few places to make sure the scarf will stay in place. Note: Add only a little bit of glue at a time so it doesn’t look messy. Tuck both ends under the scarf and glue to secure.

Optional: Sew a small snowflake to the scarf (a little to one side).

And voila! You have made an adorable little polar bear! Now you can also add a ribbon to its head and make it an ornament. 🙂

Stay tuned! In a few days, this little guy will show you something special!

HAPPY CROCHET!

Sweet Little Bird

My daughter loves birds. So, for her birthday party, I made seven crochet birds – one for each of her guests. The kiddos loved them. My daughter likes to put hers in a little basket and walk around the house. I should make more because these cuties are perfect for a child to hold and great for learning colors or counting.

Materials:

  1. Red Heart worsted weight yarn – 2 colors
  2. Boye crochet hook – size G
  3. Solid black eyes – 6 mm
  4. Stuffing
  5. Sewing needle

Notes:

  1. Crochet in continuous rounds.
  2. Use the invisible decrease technique.
  3. Crochet with the right side out.

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

yo – yarn over

sl st – slip stitch

Pattern:

Leave a long tail (you’ll make feathers later).

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Pull yarn to close the mr.

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Rounds 5 – 7: 24 sc

Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 9: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts

Round 10: (5 sc, inc) x 6 – 42 sts

Rounds 11 – 13: 42 sc

Round 14: (5 sc, dec) x 6 – 36 sts

Round 15: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 16: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Put the eyes on round 7. Leave 3 sts between them.

Round 18: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Stuff the bird.

Round 19: 6 dec x 6 – 6 sts

Fasten off.

Do not secure the stitches just yet. First, we will make the feathers on top of the head.

 

Feathers:

The feathers are made on top of the head of the bird. I made three feathers using the long tail I left before starting the magic ring.

Insert hook anywhere you want on top of the head (I keep it close to where the tail starts), YO, pull and sl st. Now make a ch of 6 or 7 (this is the smaller feather). Insert hook in same st you started, YO, pull and sl st. Make a ch of 10 or 11 (bigger feather). Insert hook where you started, YO, pull and sl st. Fasten off.

You can make the feathers longer by making longer chains.

Now you can finish off and secure the stitches. If you are not sure how to do that, follow the tutorials here:

The Ultimate Finish for Amigurumi

Secure Stitching

Beak:

You’ll make the beak a row below the eyes in the 3 sts between them. I start by making an outline (a little triangle). After you make the outline, you can keep sewing until you fill in the beak. I usually sew right in the middle (from the bottom of beak until very top).

And voila! You have a cute little crochet bird.

I hope you like this pattern. It’s the very first one I ever made.

Happy Crochet!

Pictures were taken by my very talented friend Kristen Willden. 

Amigurumi Mouse

IMG_6341

Since my blog is called Pink Mouse Boutique, I had to create a mouse pattern. And this one is super adorable and very easy and quick to make. You can use any color thread or yarn. These mice are perfect to teach the children in your life about numbers, colors, sorting, counting, etc. The fun is endless! And I am so addicted to them!

  1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread (color of your choice) + black for the eyes
  2. Clover Amour, 1.5 mm crochet hook
  3. Scissors
  4. Sewing needle
  5. Polyester stuffing

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

sc – single crochet

dec – decrease

inc – increase

sl st – slip stitch

ch – chain

Notes:

  1. When forming the magic ring, leave a long tail. We will  need it later to braid the tail of the mouse.
  2. Do not join rounds.

Pattern:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, sc 8 – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Rounds 6 – 10: 40 sc

Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 12: 32 sc

Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 14 – 15: 24 sc

Sew the eyes on round 15, 5 sts apart from each other.

Round 16: (4 sc, dec) x 4 – 20 sts

Round 17: 20 sc

Stuff the body well.

Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x 4 – 16 sts

Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x 4 – 12 sts

Stuff more if needed before finishing Round 20.

Round 20: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off. Leave a long tail. Bring it all the way through the body of the mouse and through the magic ring.

Ears (x 2):

Leave long tails. After you sew the ears in place, you will bring the tails through the magic ring.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, sc 8; sl st to join and ch 2 – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 hdc inc; sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts

Round 3: 16 sc; sl st to join

Pull the mr tight and sew in place (about 3 rounds above the eyes).

Tail:

You should have 6 pieces of long thread coming out of the magic ring. Braid those until you reach a desired length for the tail. Make a knot and cut the excess thread.

IMG_6426

And voila! You made a cute little mouse!

IMG_6422

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know what you think in the comments.

Happy Crochet!

Black Halloween Cat

IMG_9541

This is one of the very first patterns I wrote. It took me four years to finally take the pictures and actually write it properly so others can make the little kitty too.

This is a very quick and easy pattern. It is perfect if you are new to crochet or miniatures.

Materials:

  1. Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread – size 10 (black)
  2. Clover Amour crochet hook – 1.5 mm
  3. Old gift card (or cardboard)
  4. Stuffing
  5. Sewing needle
  6. Scissors

Abbreviations:

  • mr – magic ring
  • ch – chain
  • st – stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • tr cr – treble crochet
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • BLO – black loop only
  • inc – increase
  • dec – decrease

Pattern:

Crochet in spiral. Do not join rounds. We will make the kitty from the bottom up.

Body and Head

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring

Pull tight to close the ring.

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Trace the circle on cardboard or thicker piece of plastic. I used an old gift card. We will put the circle inside the cat’s body before we start decreasing. This will help the cat be able to stand on its own.

Round 5: 10 sc, sk 3 and ch 3, 19 sc – 32 sts (counting the 3 chains you made)

Round 6: 10 sc, 3 sc in the BLO of the chains, 19 sc – 32 sts

Rounds 7 – 9: 32 sc

Insert the plastic circle in the cat’s body.

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Round 10: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 11: 24 sc

Round 12: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Start stuffing as you are working on the doll. Stuff well.

Rounds 13 – 16: 16 sc

Round 17: 8 dec – 8 sts

Rounds 18 – 19: 8 sc

Round 20: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 21: 16 sc

Round 22: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 23 – 25: 24 sc

Round 26: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Round 27: 16 sc

Stuff the head well but do not over stuff. You should be able to shape the head with your hands.

Round 28: 8 dec – 8 sts

Round 29: 2 dec

Do not crochet in the rest of the sts in this round. Fasten off. Finish off your work and secure the sts by inserting both tails (from the magic ring and from the last round) into the same stitch. Tie a knot. Cut the excess thread and stuff it into the cat’s body.

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Tail:

The tail should be about 2 1/4 inches long. Cut your wire to be slightly longer than that (maybe 2.5 inches). Use the back of your crochet hook to move the stuffing right above the plastic piece you have at the bottom of the cat. That will make space for the wire to be inserted more easily. Insert the wire in the space you made. You will crochet around the wire.

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Crochet the tail in the 3 chains and 3 front loops you left after Round 6. Insert the hook in any one stitch, ch 1 and 1 sc in the same st you made the 1 ch. This will count as the first st of the round. Keep your sts tight in this first round so there are no holes.

Round 1: 5 sc – 6 sts

Single crochet around until the tail is about 2 1/4 inches long (a round above the wire).

Fasten off and finish off.

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Ears x 2:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 3 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 3 sc

Slip stitch into the 1st stitch of the round. Leave a long tail for sewing. Fasten off.

Sew the ears on round 26 or 27 about 3 or 4 sts apart.

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And voila! You have made a cute little black kitty that you can add to your Halloween decor.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Leave me a comment to let me know what you think.

Happy Crochet!