Well, I am excited to have finally published Part 5 of the Pocket Valentines, the Bee. I hope you like this little one as much as the other parts in the series.
Note: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the bee.
WINGS (x 2)
Suggested Color – White
Ch 5
Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 2 ch, 4 sc in last ch; working on the opposite side of chain 1 sc in 3 ch; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 2: 1 sc in 2 sts, hdc, 4 dc inc, hdc, 1 sc in 2 sts – 14 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Set aside.
ANTENNAE (x 2)
Suggested Color – Dark Yellow
Ch 4
Row 1: 2 dc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last 2 chains – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ARMS (x 2)
Suggested color – Dark Yellow
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BODY (x 2)
Suggested Colors – Dark Yellow and Black
NOTE: I do not weave in the ends. I tie knots and hide them inside since we will make two pieces for the body and then crochet them together to join.
With Dark Yellow, ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 1 sc in 6 sts, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 5: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Black
Rows 6 – 7: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Dark Yellow
Rows 8 – 9: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Black
Rows 10 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (2 rows)
Change color – Dark Yellow
Row 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 12: sc, in BLO dec, 1 sc in 4 sts, in BLO dec, sc; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 14: sc in each st
Continue sc around the entire body, in every st and row.
Sl st to the 1st st of Row 14.
Fasten off the 1st piece. Do not break the yarn from the 2nd piece.
ASSEMBLY
The facial features will be sewn to the piece that has not been fasten off.
With Black yarn, sew the eyes on Row 4 or 5, 5 stitches apart.
With Black yarn, sew a line between the eyes. The line should be 3 stitches long.
Insert the needle a row below the mouth and in the middle. Pull and go around the mouth to form a curve. Insert the needle again through the same stitch and pull. Tie a knot to secure the ends.
With Dark Pink, sew a couple of times a row below the eyes to make the cheeks.
Sew the arms a row below the cheeks.
7. Place the two pieces of the body together with the right side facing out. Slip stitch all around going through both pieces. Stuff lightly before you finish closing the body. Finish closing the body, fasten off, and secure the stitches (I tie knots and stuff inside the body).
8. Sew the wings at the back of the body.
9. Sew the antennae in place using the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece.
And your little bee is finished!
I hope you enjoyed making this critter. Please let me know in the comments.
This little fox was not planned. But once the idea popped into my head, I had to make it.
If you have made the other Valentine critters, you will notice that most of the instructions are the same as for the other animals. Only the tail and some of the facial details are different.
Notes: Make sure to read through the whole pattern and look at all the step-by-step pictures before crocheting the fox.
Arms (x 2)
Suggested color – Orange
Ch 4
Row 1: in back bump of ch only sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in last ch
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Ears (x 2)
Suggested Color – Orange
Round 1: in a mr 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 trbl, 1 hdc, 1 sc; do not sl st to join – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Tail
Suggested Colors – Orange and White
With Orange, ch 3
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in last; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 2: 2 inc; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 3: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts (do not cut the orange yarn just yet)
Change Color – White (leave a long beginning tail)
Row 4: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 5: in BLO 2 dec; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Row 6: in FLO dec – 1 st
Fasten off.
Cut the orange yarn leaving a long enough tail to crochet around the orange part. With a needle carry it to the left side of the tail and begin sc around the orange part with the orange yarn. When you get to the white part, change color and use the white beginning tail. Sc around with white. Fasten off when you get to the orange. I did not slip stitch to join to the orange. I sewed the first orange and last white stitches together. Weave in all ends, except for the one you will use to sew the tail in place.
BODY – Back Piece
Suggested Colors – Orange
Ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (9 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
BODY – Front Piece
Suggested Colors – White and Orange
With White, ch 7
Row 1: in back bump of ch only 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 2: inc, 6 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Rows 3 – 5: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (3 rows)
Change Color – Orange
Rows 6 – 11: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 10 sts (6 rows)
LEG 1
Row 12: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 13: sc in each st – 4 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2
Join thread to 7th st of Row 11.
Row 1: sc in 4 sts; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 2: sc in each st – 4 sts
Sc in each st and row all around the body.
Do not fasten off just yet.
ASSEMBLY
With black, sew the nose. The nose is sewn between Rows 4 and 6. Refer to the first five pictures below. Count 4 spaces in start sewing the nose at the 4th space going down one row. I sewed once in each at first and then went back, and sewed one more time (the 4th picture). Once the bottom of the nose is filled, sew three lines at the top.
With black, sew the eyes a stitch away from the nose on Row 4. Sew several times. Tie knots to secure the yarn.
With orange, sew lines starting with the two stitches above the nose and going up increasing the lines: 2 above the nose, 3 lines in next row, 5 lines in following row, and 7 lines in last row. Secure the yarn by tying both ends with a knot.
Sew the arms at an angle between Rows 7 and 8.
5. Put the front and back pieces together with the wrong side touching and the right side facing out. Slip stitch through both inserting the hook through the front piece first. Stuff lightly before completely closing the piece. Slip stitch until the end. Weave in the tail.
6. Sew the tail in place. I sewed the orange part in place and left the white part free. I sewed the tail at an angle.
7. Using only the BLO of the front piece and the FLO of the back piece, sew the ears in place. Use black fabric marker, to color the tip of the ears.
8. OPTIONAL: With the cotton swab and blush, add color to the cheeks.
Our little fox is finished!
I hope you enjoyed this part of the pattern. Let me know in the comments below.
The idea to create a Unicorn Zombie was given to me by one of my followers on Instagram last year. It took me a while, but finally I was able to make this cute little guy. And I am so happy with the final look! The bone is a challenge though. 🙂
This version of the pattern is FREE. You can also find a PREMIUM version that includes a drawing of the unicorn that you can use to create fun Halloween cards. The premium version is a PDF file that you can conveniently download and print.
We will end Round 16 there. Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.
BODY
Turn the head upside down with the back of the head facing you.
You will notice that there are 2 sets of unworked stitches – 4 that are closest to you (this is where the back of the body will be once you make it) and 4 are further away from you (where the front of the body will be once you make it). Insert the hook in the 2nd to last st beginning with the back (closest to you) and with a sc join Clarity.
Round 1: sc again in same st where you joined thread and inc in next st
Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front
Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the front; do not grab the last st from the back)
Inc in next 3 sts
Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front
Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the back; do not grab the last st from the front)
Inc in last st
After you finish Round 1, you should have 16 sts.
Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts
Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)
Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts
Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts
Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 28 sts (2 rounds)
Round 9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 – 24 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the body well. Leave 8 stitches on each side of the body for legs. Mark the middle 8 stitches (4 at the front and 4 at the back) with thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs are aligned with the head.
LEGS (x 2)
Turn the body upside down (back side facing you) and with a sc join Clarity thread in one of the stitches you left for the 1st leg.
Round 1: sc in each st until you get to the thread marking the middle sts. Insert hook in same st as last sc and in the st at the other side of the body. 1 sc ; sc until the end of round – 8 sts
Round 2: sc around – 8 sts
Stuff well.
Round 3: 4 dec – 4 sts
Fasten off.
Repeat for the second leg.
Once finished, sew the middle 8 stitches to close.
Secure the stitches.
ARM
Crochet in spiral.
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts
Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)
Round 8: 4 dec – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
BONE
Crochet tight.
Because I used thread, I didn’t need to stuff the bone. If you are using yarn, you may need to stuff a little.
Suggested color – DMC cotton perle 12 with a 1 mm hook (NOTE: I used yarn for the step-by-step pictures)
Ch 4
Round 1: 1 puff stitch in 2nd ch from hook (Please follow the steps below and refer to the pictures)
YO and insert hook through 2nd chain from hook, YO and pull (three loops on hook)
YO and pull through 2 loops (two loops left on hook)
YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (four loops on hook)
YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook)
YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (five loops on hook)
YO and pull through all loops (puff stitch created)
1 sc in next chain
2 puff stitches in last ch
Now we will crochet on the other side of the chain
1 sc in next ch
1 puff stitch in last ch
At the end of Round 1, you should have 6 stitches.
Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches. Leave one of the tails for sewing later.
EAR 1
Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (hdc, dc, hdc) in third st, inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 9 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
EAR 2
Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (1 hdc, ch 2 and sl st in 3rd st), inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 8 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
EYE
Suggested color: DMC cotton perle 12, black with a 1 mm hook
Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 2: (1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 2; sl st to join – 10 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Use DMC cotton perle 12, color white thread to sew a few times in a stitch in the eye to make a large sparkle. Then sew a couple of times in another st to make a second sparkle (a bit smaller than the first one).
HORN
Suggested color – DMC metallic thread (2 or 3 strands)
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 2: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 3: in BLO (2 sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts
Round 5: in BLO (sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join – 4 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
TAIL (x 6)
Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant
Ch 6
Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 5 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
MANE (5 or 6)
Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant
Ch 15
Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 14 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
ASSEMBLY
Sew the eye to the head, right above the muzzle. I sewed the eye on the left part of the face.
Using Curio size 10, black thread and a needle, sew a line going up 4 rounds at an angle on the right side of the head. The bottom of the line should be 7 stitches from the eye and the top – about 4 or 5 stitches from the top of the eye. Once the line is sewn (I sewed twice to make it thicker), sew 3 smaller lines crossing the longer one. Secure the thread.
Sew the horn 4 rounds above the eyes.
Sew the ears about 2 stitches behind the horn, about 3 stitches apart.
Sew the arm one round below the head and the bone – two rounds below the head making sure both align with the legs.
Sew the pieces you made for the tail at the back of the body, one or two rounds above the legs.
Sew the pieces you made for the mane at the back of the head, between the ears.
With black thread, sew a line going down the arm about four rounds. Then sew two smaller lines crossing the longer one.
With the Conch color (also light or salmon pink), cross stitch in 5 stitches below the right ear (about 2 rounds above the eye).
Using a small brush or cotton swab, apply your choice of color of the hard pastel around the scarred eye and arm patch. I also applied some on the broken ear, the bottom of the legs, and a little around the left eye (the round one).
It’s almost Christmas and I wanted to create a tiny design that anyone can make. This little polar bear is super special. He is tiny and adorable and comes with his very own… Hmm… I think I will keep that a secret until next week.
NOTE: This pattern is designed by Diana Moore from PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE. This pattern is available for free only on my blog pinkmouseboutique.com. If you see the pattern and pictures posted on another website, please let me know. Thank you!
MATERIALS:
Worsted weight yarn:
white – for the bear
red – scarf
black – eyes and nose
Clover Amour crochet hook, 3.25 mm
Sewing needle
Stuffing
Glue gun
Snowflake button (optional)
ABBREVIATIONS:
mr – magic ring dec – decrease
ch – chain inc – increase
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
NOTES:
Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
Use the invisible decrease technique when decreasing.
PATTERN:
We will begin by making the head, body, and legs (in one piece).
Start with white yarn.
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Rounds 4 – 7: 24 sc
Round 8: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts
Round 9: (sc inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Rounds 10 – 13: 24 sts
Stuff the head and body well.
The legs will be made with 9 sts on each side of the body. The 6 sts (3 in the front and 3 in the back will be sewn later).
Leg 1:
Continue from where you stopped with the body.
Round 1: 8 sc, sk 15 sts, 1 sc – 9 sts
Rounds 2 – 3: 9 sc
Leave a long tail and fasten off.
Leg 2:
Leave 6 sts in the middle for sewing (3 in the back and 3 in the front of the body). Join yarn to one of the 9 sts you left for the 2nd leg. Continue following the instructions for the first leg.
Once you finish both legs, stuff them well, finish them off and secure the stitches.
Face:
Sew the eyes on Round 5, 5 stitches apart.
Sew the nose in the middle 3 stitches between the eyes. Then sew one long line starting from the middle of the nose and going down 2 rounds.
Arms (x 2):
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 5 sc in the ring – 5 sts
Rounds 2 – 5: 5 sc around
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
Ears (x 2):
mr, ch 1, 5 hdc in the ring
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
Tail:
Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts
Round 2: 6 sc
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
Scarf:
Use red yarn or any color of your choice.
Ch 66
Fasten off.
Assembly:
Sew the arms on Round 8 (or 9) of the body. Sew the tail in the back a round above the legs. Sew the ears on top of the head (a round below the magic ring). Using a cotton swab and blush, make pink cheeks. NOTE: Cover the body with a piece of fabric so the blush doesn’t stain it.
Fold the scarf in half and find the middle. With the glue gun, glue the middle of the scarf to the front of the bear (Round 9).
You will wrap it around a few times while gluing in a few places to make sure the scarf will stay in place. Note: Add only a little bit of glue at a time so it doesn’t look messy. Tuck both ends under the scarf and glue to secure.
Optional: Sew a small snowflake to the scarf (a little to one side).
And voila! You have made an adorable little polar bear! Now you can also add a ribbon to its head and make it an ornament. 🙂
Stay tuned! In a few days, this little guy will show you something special!
I knew I wanted to make some sort of a necklace house and a doll that would go inside. It took a while to start working on that project and when I did eventually start working on it, it took a few weeks to figure out the house design. I almost gave up. I am glad I didn’t because this new pattern is one of my favorites.
And to celebrate the release of the Tiny People in a Tiny House pattern (and the fact that it was published in the HHM printed issue), I created an extra outfit. I wanted it to be simple but to have more texture. So, I played around with the hdc stitch. Fun!
This outfit is specifically design for my newest dolls (see picture below).
Note: I have designed this dress to be permanently sewn to the doll. If you would like it to be removable, crochet in rows until you finished Round 2 (where you will have 32 sts). After that Round (but you will be working it in rows), you can start joining rounds. This should leave you enough opening in the back to be able to put on and take off the outfit. But always measure on your doll to make sure the outfit fits just right.
Pattern:
HAT
Chain 17
Row 1: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook; 14 hdc; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts
Rows 2 – 21: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 2 and turn – 15 sts
Row 22: 15 hdc in BLO; ch 1 and turn
Put the 1st and last row together and sc them together.
Leave a long tail for sewing and FO.
Insert needle through each row at the edge of the hat.
pinkmouseboutique.com 