Unicorn Zombie (Free Version)

The idea to create a Unicorn Zombie was given to me by one of my followers on Instagram last year. It took me a while, but finally I was able to make this cute little guy. And I am so happy with the final look! The bone is a challenge though. 🙂

This version of the pattern is FREE. You can also find a PREMIUM version that includes a drawing of the unicorn that you can use to create fun Halloween cards. The premium version is a PDF file that you can conveniently download and print.

Link to the premium version: UNICORN ZOMBIE

I hope you like the pattern. Let me know in the comments below!

MATERIALS

  1. Curio, size 10 (you can find it here: KnitPicks)
    • Clarity (light blue)
    • Heliotrope
    • Black
    • Conch
  2. DMC floss:
    • Metallic, gold
    • Black
    • White
  3. Hooks, Clover Amour (1.5 mm and 1 mm)
  4. Stuffing
  5. Hard Pastels (I used Prismacolor)
  6. Small brush or a cotton swab

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring                                                                

Ch – chain                                                                           

St(es) – stitch(es)                                                               

Sl st – slip stitch                                                                 

Sc – single crochet                                                             

Hdc – half double crochet                                                

Dc – double crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – Decrease (invisible decrease)

BLO/FLO – Back loop only/Front loop only

Sk – skip

HEAD

Round 1: with Clarity 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)

Round 8: 4 sc, 4 inc, 8 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc – 32 sts

Round 9: sc around – 32 sts

Change color – Heliotrope

Rounds 10 – 11: sc around – 32 sts (2 rounds)

Round 12: sc in 30 sts, ch 4 and sk 4 (we are moving the beginning of the round) – 32 sts

Round 13: 2 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc, in BLO of chain 4 sc – 24 sts

Round 14: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Start stuffing the head.

Round 15: 8 dec – 8 sts

Round 16: 2 dec – 6 sts

We will end Round 16 there. Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.

BODY

Turn the head upside down with the back of the head facing you.

You will notice that there are 2 sets of unworked stitches – 4 that are closest to you (this is where the back of the body will be once you make it) and 4 are further away from you (where the front of the body will be once you make it). Insert the hook in the 2nd to last st beginning with the back (closest to you) and with a sc join Clarity.

Round 1: sc again in same st where you joined thread and inc in next st

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the front; do not grab the last st from the back)

Inc in next 3 sts

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the back; do not grab the last st from the front)

Inc in last st

After you finish Round 1, you should have 16 sts.

Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts

Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)

Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts

Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 28 sts (2 rounds)

Round 9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 – 24 sts

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the body well. Leave 8 stitches on each side of the body for legs. Mark the middle 8 stitches (4 at the front and 4 at the back) with thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs are aligned with the head.

LEGS (x 2)

Turn the body upside down (back side facing you) and with a sc join Clarity thread in one of the stitches you left for the 1st leg.

Round 1: sc in each st until you get to the thread marking the middle sts. Insert hook in same st as last sc and in the st at the other side of the body. 1 sc ; sc until the end of round – 8 sts

Round 2: sc around – 8 sts

Stuff well.

Round 3: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off.

Repeat for the second leg.

Once finished, sew the middle 8 stitches to close.

Secure the stitches.

ARM

Crochet in spiral.

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

BONE

Crochet tight.

Because I used thread, I didn’t need to stuff the bone. If you are using yarn, you may need to stuff a little.

Suggested color – DMC cotton perle 12 with a 1 mm hook (NOTE: I used yarn for the step-by-step pictures)

Ch 4

Round 1: 1 puff stitch in 2nd ch from hook (Please follow the steps below and refer to the pictures)

YO and insert hook through 2nd chain from hook, YO and pull (three loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (two loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (four loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (five loops on hook)

YO and pull through all loops (puff stitch created)

1 sc in next chain

2 puff stitches in last ch

Now we will crochet on the other side of the chain

1 sc in next ch

1 puff stitch in last ch

At the end of Round 1, you should have 6 stitches.

Rounds 2 – 7 : sc around – 6 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 1 puff stitch, 1 sc, 2 puff stitches, 1 sc, 1 puff stitch – 6 sts

NOTE: Make sure the two ends are aligned.

Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches. Leave one of the tails for sewing later.

EAR 1

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (hdc, dc, hdc) in third st, inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 9 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EAR 2

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (1 hdc, ch 2 and sl st in 3rd st), inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 8 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EYE

Suggested color: DMC cotton perle 12, black with a 1 mm hook

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 2: (1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 2; sl st to join – 10 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Use DMC cotton perle 12, color white thread to sew a few times in a stitch in the eye to make a large sparkle. Then sew a couple of times in another st to make a second sparkle (a bit smaller than the first one).

HORN

Suggested color – DMC metallic thread (2 or 3 strands)

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 2: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 3: in BLO (2 sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 5: in BLO (sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

TAIL (x 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 6

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 5 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

MANE (5 or 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 15

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 14 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

Sew the eye to the head, right above the muzzle. I sewed the eye on the left part of the face.

Using Curio size 10, black thread and a needle, sew a line going up 4 rounds at an angle on the right side of the head. The bottom of the line should be 7 stitches from the eye and the top – about 4 or 5 stitches from the top of the eye. Once the line is sewn (I sewed twice to make it thicker), sew 3 smaller lines crossing the longer one. Secure the thread.

Sew the horn 4 rounds above the eyes.

Sew the ears about 2 stitches behind the horn, about 3 stitches apart.

Sew the arm one round below the head and the bone – two rounds below the head making sure both align with the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the tail at the back of the body, one or two rounds above the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the mane at the back of the head, between the ears.

With black thread, sew a line going down the arm about four rounds. Then sew two smaller lines crossing the longer one.

With the Conch color (also light or salmon pink), cross stitch in 5 stitches below the right ear (about 2 rounds above the eye).

Using a small brush or cotton swab, apply your choice of color of the hard pastel around the scarred eye and arm patch. I also applied some on the broken ear, the bottom of the legs, and a little around the left eye (the round one).

HAPPY CROCHET!!!

Sweet Little Bird

My daughter loves birds. So, for her birthday party, I made seven crochet birds – one for each of her guests. The kiddos loved them. My daughter likes to put hers in a little basket and walk around the house. I should make more because these cuties are perfect for a child to hold and great for learning colors or counting.

Materials:

  1. Red Heart worsted weight yarn – 2 colors
  2. Boye crochet hook – size G
  3. Solid black eyes – 6 mm
  4. Stuffing
  5. Sewing needle

Notes:

  1. Crochet in continuous rounds.
  2. Use the invisible decrease technique.
  3. Crochet with the right side out.

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

st(s) – stitch(es)

yo – yarn over

sl st – slip stitch

Pattern:

Leave a long tail (you’ll make feathers later).

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Pull yarn to close the mr.

Round 2: 6 inc – 12 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 – 18 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 – 24 sts

Rounds 5 – 7: 24 sc

Round 8: (3 sc, inc) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 9: (4 sc, inc) x 6 – 36 sts

Round 10: (5 sc, inc) x 6 – 42 sts

Rounds 11 – 13: 42 sc

Round 14: (5 sc, dec) x 6 – 36 sts

Round 15: (4 sc, dec) x 6 – 30 sts

Round 16: (3 sc, dec) x 6 – 24 sts

Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6 – 18 sts

Put the eyes on round 7. Leave 3 sts between them.

Round 18: (sc, dec) x 6 – 12 sts

Stuff the bird.

Round 19: 6 dec x 6 – 6 sts

Fasten off.

Do not secure the stitches just yet. First, we will make the feathers on top of the head.

 

Feathers:

The feathers are made on top of the head of the bird. I made three feathers using the long tail I left before starting the magic ring.

Insert hook anywhere you want on top of the head (I keep it close to where the tail starts), YO, pull and sl st. Now make a ch of 6 or 7 (this is the smaller feather). Insert hook in same st you started, YO, pull and sl st. Make a ch of 10 or 11 (bigger feather). Insert hook where you started, YO, pull and sl st. Fasten off.

You can make the feathers longer by making longer chains.

Now you can finish off and secure the stitches. If you are not sure how to do that, follow the tutorials here:

The Ultimate Finish for Amigurumi

Secure Stitching

Beak:

You’ll make the beak a row below the eyes in the 3 sts between them. I start by making an outline (a little triangle). After you make the outline, you can keep sewing until you fill in the beak. I usually sew right in the middle (from the bottom of beak until very top).

And voila! You have a cute little crochet bird.

I hope you like this pattern. It’s the very first one I ever made.

Happy Crochet!

Pictures were taken by my very talented friend Kristen Willden. 

Amigurumi Mouse

IMG_6341

Since my blog is called Pink Mouse Boutique, I had to create a mouse pattern. And this one is super adorable and very easy and quick to make. You can use any color thread or yarn. These mice are perfect to teach the children in your life about numbers, colors, sorting, counting, etc. The fun is endless! And I am so addicted to them!

  1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread (color of your choice) + black for the eyes
  2. Clover Amour, 1.5 mm crochet hook
  3. Scissors
  4. Sewing needle
  5. Polyester stuffing

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

sc – single crochet

dec – decrease

inc – increase

sl st – slip stitch

ch – chain

Notes:

  1. When forming the magic ring, leave a long tail. We will  need it later to braid the tail of the mouse.
  2. Do not join rounds.

Pattern:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, sc 8 – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Rounds 6 – 10: 40 sc

Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 12: 32 sc

Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 14 – 15: 24 sc

Sew the eyes on round 15, 5 sts apart from each other.

Round 16: (4 sc, dec) x 4 – 20 sts

Round 17: 20 sc

Stuff the body well.

Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x 4 – 16 sts

Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x 4 – 12 sts

Stuff more if needed before finishing Round 20.

Round 20: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off. Leave a long tail. Bring it all the way through the body of the mouse and through the magic ring.

Ears (x 2):

Leave long tails. After you sew the ears in place, you will bring the tails through the magic ring.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, sc 8; sl st to join and ch 2 – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 hdc inc; sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts

Round 3: 16 sc; sl st to join

Pull the mr tight and sew in place (about 3 rounds above the eyes).

Tail:

You should have 6 pieces of long thread coming out of the magic ring. Braid those until you reach a desired length for the tail. Make a knot and cut the excess thread.

IMG_6426

And voila! You made a cute little mouse!

IMG_6422

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know what you think in the comments.

Happy Crochet!