Unicorn Zombie (Free Version)

The idea to create a Unicorn Zombie was given to me by one of my followers on Instagram last year. It took me a while, but finally I was able to make this cute little guy. And I am so happy with the final look! The bone is a challenge though. 🙂

This version of the pattern is FREE. You can also find a PREMIUM version that includes a drawing of the unicorn that you can use to create fun Halloween cards. The premium version is a PDF file that you can conveniently download and print.

Link to the premium version: UNICORN ZOMBIE

I hope you like the pattern. Let me know in the comments below!

MATERIALS

  1. Curio, size 10 (you can find it here: KnitPicks)
    • Clarity (light blue)
    • Heliotrope
    • Black
    • Conch
  2. DMC floss:
    • Metallic, gold
    • Black
    • White
  3. Hooks, Clover Amour (1.5 mm and 1 mm)
  4. Stuffing
  5. Hard Pastels (I used Prismacolor)
  6. Small brush or a cotton swab

ABBREVIATIONS:

MR – magic ring                                                                

Ch – chain                                                                           

St(es) – stitch(es)                                                               

Sl st – slip stitch                                                                 

Sc – single crochet                                                             

Hdc – half double crochet                                                

Dc – double crochet

Inc – increase

Dec – Decrease (invisible decrease)

BLO/FLO – Back loop only/Front loop only

Sk – skip

HEAD

Round 1: with Clarity 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: sc around – 24 sts (4 rounds)

Round 8: 4 sc, 4 inc, 8 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc – 32 sts

Round 9: sc around – 32 sts

Change color – Heliotrope

Rounds 10 – 11: sc around – 32 sts (2 rounds)

Round 12: sc in 30 sts, ch 4 and sk 4 (we are moving the beginning of the round) – 32 sts

Round 13: 2 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc, 4 dec, 2 sc, in BLO of chain 4 sc – 24 sts

Round 14: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Start stuffing the head.

Round 15: 8 dec – 8 sts

Round 16: 2 dec – 6 sts

We will end Round 16 there. Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches.

BODY

Turn the head upside down with the back of the head facing you.

You will notice that there are 2 sets of unworked stitches – 4 that are closest to you (this is where the back of the body will be once you make it) and 4 are further away from you (where the front of the body will be once you make it). Insert the hook in the 2nd to last st beginning with the back (closest to you) and with a sc join Clarity.

Round 1: sc again in same st where you joined thread and inc in next st

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the front; do not grab the last st from the back)

Inc in next 3 sts

Insert hook through the same st as last inc and through the stitch at the front

Inc (but the second sc should be made only in the 1st st at the back; do not grab the last st from the front)

Inc in last st

After you finish Round 1, you should have 16 sts.

Round 2: (3 sc, inc) x 4 – 20 sts

Rounds 3 – 4: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)

Round 5: (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts

Round 6: (5 sc, inc) x 4 – 28 sts

Rounds 7 – 8: sc around – 28 sts (2 rounds)

Round 9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 – 24 sts

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the body well. Leave 8 stitches on each side of the body for legs. Mark the middle 8 stitches (4 at the front and 4 at the back) with thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs are aligned with the head.

LEGS (x 2)

Turn the body upside down (back side facing you) and with a sc join Clarity thread in one of the stitches you left for the 1st leg.

Round 1: sc in each st until you get to the thread marking the middle sts. Insert hook in same st as last sc and in the st at the other side of the body. 1 sc ; sc until the end of round – 8 sts

Round 2: sc around – 8 sts

Stuff well.

Round 3: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off.

Repeat for the second leg.

Once finished, sew the middle 8 stitches to close.

Secure the stitches.

ARM

Crochet in spiral.

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts

Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 4 dec – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

BONE

Crochet tight.

Because I used thread, I didn’t need to stuff the bone. If you are using yarn, you may need to stuff a little.

Suggested color – DMC cotton perle 12 with a 1 mm hook (NOTE: I used yarn for the step-by-step pictures)

Ch 4

Round 1: 1 puff stitch in 2nd ch from hook (Please follow the steps below and refer to the pictures)

YO and insert hook through 2nd chain from hook, YO and pull (three loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (two loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (four loops on hook)

YO and pull through 2 loops (3 loops left on hook)

YO and insert hook in same ch, YO and pull (five loops on hook)

YO and pull through all loops (puff stitch created)

1 sc in next chain

2 puff stitches in last ch

Now we will crochet on the other side of the chain

1 sc in next ch

1 puff stitch in last ch

At the end of Round 1, you should have 6 stitches.

Rounds 2 – 7 : sc around – 6 sts (6 rounds)

Round 8: 1 puff stitch, 1 sc, 2 puff stitches, 1 sc, 1 puff stitch – 6 sts

NOTE: Make sure the two ends are aligned.

Fasten off, finish off, and secure the stitches. Leave one of the tails for sewing later.

EAR 1

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (hdc, dc, hdc) in third st, inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 9 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EAR 2

Round 1: with light blue 2 sc, hdc, 2 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 5 sts

Round 2: 1 sc in 1st st, inc in next, (1 hdc, ch 2 and sl st in 3rd st), inc in next, 1 sc in last st; sl st to join – 8 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

EYE

Suggested color: DMC cotton perle 12, black with a 1 mm hook

Round 1: 6 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 2: (1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc in next st) x 2; sl st to join – 10 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Use DMC cotton perle 12, color white thread to sew a few times in a stitch in the eye to make a large sparkle. Then sew a couple of times in another st to make a second sparkle (a bit smaller than the first one).

HORN

Suggested color – DMC metallic thread (2 or 3 strands)

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 2: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 3: in BLO (2 sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 4: in BLO sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 6 sts

Round 5: in BLO (sc, dec) x 2; sl st to join – 4 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

TAIL (x 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 6

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 5 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

MANE (5 or 6)

Suggested colors – Curio size 10, Hollyberry and Eggplant

Ch 15

Row 1: in back bump only 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc until the end – 14 sts

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

ASSEMBLY

Sew the eye to the head, right above the muzzle. I sewed the eye on the left part of the face.

Using Curio size 10, black thread and a needle, sew a line going up 4 rounds at an angle on the right side of the head. The bottom of the line should be 7 stitches from the eye and the top – about 4 or 5 stitches from the top of the eye. Once the line is sewn (I sewed twice to make it thicker), sew 3 smaller lines crossing the longer one. Secure the thread.

Sew the horn 4 rounds above the eyes.

Sew the ears about 2 stitches behind the horn, about 3 stitches apart.

Sew the arm one round below the head and the bone – two rounds below the head making sure both align with the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the tail at the back of the body, one or two rounds above the legs.

Sew the pieces you made for the mane at the back of the head, between the ears.

With black thread, sew a line going down the arm about four rounds. Then sew two smaller lines crossing the longer one.

With the Conch color (also light or salmon pink), cross stitch in 5 stitches below the right ear (about 2 rounds above the eye).

Using a small brush or cotton swab, apply your choice of color of the hard pastel around the scarred eye and arm patch. I also applied some on the broken ear, the bottom of the legs, and a little around the left eye (the round one).

HAPPY CROCHET!!!

Igloo and Christmas Tree

If you have been following me for a while, you know that I love making houses for my dolls. So, even before I made the polar bear (see my last post), I knew I was going to make an igloo for him. And since tomorrow it’s Christmas, I also had to make a Christmas tree. I hope you like this set and enjoy making it!

And if you have missed my last post, click HERE to see the pattern for the polar bear.

Materials:

  1. Super chunky yarn – white
  2. Worsted weigh yarn – light blue, green, brown
  3. Crochet hooks: 6 mm (Clover Amour) for igloo and 4 mm (Clover Amour) for the Christmas tree
  4. Large piece of cardboard (optional)
  5. Sewing needle
  6. Hot glue gun (optional)
  7. Stuffing

Abbreviations:

  1. Mr – magic ring
  2. Ch – chain
  3. Sl st – slip stitch
  4. Sc – single crochet
  5. Hdc – half double crochet
  6. Inc – increase
  7. Dec – decrease
  8. FLO – front loop only
  9. BLO – back look only

Pattern

Base Pattern:

We will start by creating the base. Use white yarn.

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Crochet Round 6 in the BLO.

Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 2; (4 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 48 sts

Continue crocheting in both loops.

Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x 2; (5 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 56 sts

Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x 2; (6 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 64 sts

Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x 2; (7 hdc, hdc inc) x 4; (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 72 sts

Round 10: 72 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: You can make a second base, put a cardboard piece between the two, and sew the two together. That way your base will be sturdier. I left mine without a bottom base for now.

Basket Pattern:

After finishing the base, we will create the inside of the igloo.

Continue with white yarn.

For Round 1, crochet in the FLO stitches of Round 5.

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Rounds 1 – 3: 40 sc

Round 4: 40 sl st

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Igloo Pattern:

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: 32 sc

Round 6: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Round 7: (9 sc, inc) x 4 – 44 sts

Note: If you want a tighter fit, do not make Round 7 increases but continue with 40 stitches in each round. I wanted a looser fit so my daughter can open and close the container easily.

Rounds 8 – 10: 44 sc

Note: We will now start crocheting in rows to create an opening for the igloo. We will continue the count from where we stopped with the rounds.

Row 11: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn

Row 12: 39 sc; ch 1 and turn

Row 13: 39 sc; turn

Row 14: 39 sl st

Igloo Opening:

Row 1: When you get to the opening, make 3 sc going up; then 6 sc (in the 5 sts you left empty and 1 extra from where you were joining rounds earlier); and make another 3 sc going down the opening. See pictures below.

Once you make the 3rd sc going down chain 1 and turn. You should have 12 sts for the opening of the igloo.

Row 2: 12 sc

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Optional: To make the igloo more detailed, you can sew blue lines using the back stitch. I started on Round 4 of the igloo and went all around. Then I did the same for Rounds 8 and 12. I also used the back stitch to sew around the opening of the igloo. Then every few stitches I sewed down starting from the very top. You can make the “ice bricks” of the igloo as big or small as you wish.

Christmas Tree Pattern:

Start with green yarn and 4 mm crochet hook. Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x 2 – 8 sts

Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x 2 – 10 sts

Round 4: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 5

Round 4: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 3. (4 sc, inc) x 2 – 12 sts

Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 6: in FLO (2 hdc in 1st st, sl st in next) x 7

Round 6: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 5. (6 sc, inc) x 2 – 14 sts

Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 16 sts

Round 8: in FLO (2 hdc, inc) x 8

Round 8: same round as above because we will crochet in the BLO of Round 7. (7 sc, inc) x 2 – 18 sts

Round 9: (4 sc, dec) x 3 – 15 sts

Round 10: (3 sc, dec) x 3 – 12 sts

Stuff the Christmas tree well. Change color to brown.

Rounds 11 – 12: 12 sc

Finish stuffing the tree and the tree trunk.

Round 13: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

You can use festive buttons and beads to decorate your tiny Christmas tree.

Amigurumi Polar Bear

It’s almost Christmas and I wanted to create a tiny design that anyone can make. This little polar bear is super special. He is tiny and adorable and comes with his very own… Hmm… I think I will keep that a secret until next week. 

NOTE: This pattern is designed by Diana Moore from PINK MOUSE BOUTIQUE. This pattern is available for free only on my blog pinkmouseboutique.com. If you see the pattern and pictures posted on another website, please let me know. Thank you!

MATERIALS:

  1. Worsted weight yarn:
    1. white – for the bear 
    2. red – scarf
    3. black – eyes and nose
  2. Clover Amour crochet hook, 3.25 mm
  3. Sewing needle
  4. Stuffing
  5. Glue gun
  6. Snowflake button (optional)

ABBREVIATIONS:

mr – magic ring                                              dec – decrease

ch – chain                                                         inc – increase

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

NOTES:

  1. Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.
  2. Use the invisible decrease technique when decreasing. 

PATTERN:

We will begin by making the head, body, and legs (in one piece).

Start with white yarn.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 8 sc in the ring – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 4 – 7: 24 sc

Round 8: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts

Round 9: (sc inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 10 – 13: 24 sts

Stuff the head and body well.

The legs will be made with 9 sts on each side of the body. The 6 sts (3 in the front and 3 in the back will be sewn later).

Leg 1:

Continue from where you stopped with the body.

Round 1: 8 sc, sk 15 sts, 1 sc – 9 sts

Rounds 2 – 3: 9 sc

Leave a long tail and fasten off.

Leg 2:

Leave 6 sts in the middle for sewing (3 in the back and 3 in the front of the body). Join yarn to one of the 9 sts you left for the 2nd leg. Continue following the instructions for the first leg. 

Once you finish both legs, stuff them well, finish them off and secure the stitches.

Face:

Sew the eyes on Round 5, 5 stitches apart.

Sew the nose in the middle 3 stitches between the eyes. Then sew one long line starting from the middle of the nose and going down 2 rounds.

Arms (x 2):

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 5 sc in the ring – 5 sts

Rounds 2 – 5: 5 sc around

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Ears (x 2):

mr, ch 1, 5 hdc in the ring

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Tail:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring – 6 sts

Round 2: 6 sc

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Scarf:

Use red yarn or any color of your choice.

Ch 66

Fasten off.

Assembly:

Sew the arms on Round 8 (or 9) of the body. Sew the tail in the back a round above the legs. Sew the ears on top of the head (a round below the magic ring). Using a cotton swab and blush, make pink cheeks. NOTE: Cover the body with a piece of fabric so the blush doesn’t stain it.

Fold the scarf in half and find the middle. With the glue gun, glue the middle of the scarf to the front of the bear (Round 9).

You will wrap it around a few times while gluing in a few places to make sure the scarf will stay in place. Note: Add only a little bit of glue at a time so it doesn’t look messy. Tuck both ends under the scarf and glue to secure.

Optional: Sew a small snowflake to the scarf (a little to one side).

And voila! You have made an adorable little polar bear! Now you can also add a ribbon to its head and make it an ornament. 🙂

Stay tuned! In a few days, this little guy will show you something special!

HAPPY CROCHET!

Amigurumi Mouse

IMG_6341

Since my blog is called Pink Mouse Boutique, I had to create a mouse pattern. And this one is super adorable and very easy and quick to make. You can use any color thread or yarn. These mice are perfect to teach the children in your life about numbers, colors, sorting, counting, etc. The fun is endless! And I am so addicted to them!

  1. Aunt Lydia’s size 10 thread (color of your choice) + black for the eyes
  2. Clover Amour, 1.5 mm crochet hook
  3. Scissors
  4. Sewing needle
  5. Polyester stuffing

Abbreviations:

mr – magic ring

sc – single crochet

dec – decrease

inc – increase

sl st – slip stitch

ch – chain

Notes:

  1. When forming the magic ring, leave a long tail. We will  need it later to braid the tail of the mouse.
  2. Do not join rounds.

Pattern:

Round 1: mr, ch 1, sc 8 – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts

Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 – 40 sts

Rounds 6 – 10: 40 sc

Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x 8 – 32 sts

Round 12: 32 sc

Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x 8 – 24 sts

Rounds 14 – 15: 24 sc

Sew the eyes on round 15, 5 sts apart from each other.

Round 16: (4 sc, dec) x 4 – 20 sts

Round 17: 20 sc

Stuff the body well.

Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x 4 – 16 sts

Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x 4 – 12 sts

Stuff more if needed before finishing Round 20.

Round 20: 6 dec – 6 sts

Fasten off. Leave a long tail. Bring it all the way through the body of the mouse and through the magic ring.

Ears (x 2):

Leave long tails. After you sew the ears in place, you will bring the tails through the magic ring.

Round 1: mr, ch 1, sc 8; sl st to join and ch 2 – 8 sts

Round 2: 8 hdc inc; sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts

Round 3: 16 sc; sl st to join

Pull the mr tight and sew in place (about 3 rounds above the eyes).

Tail:

You should have 6 pieces of long thread coming out of the magic ring. Braid those until you reach a desired length for the tail. Make a knot and cut the excess thread.

IMG_6426

And voila! You made a cute little mouse!

IMG_6422

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. Let me know what you think in the comments.

Happy Crochet!